#16
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I'm running a newer "revised" VBC with 42-28 on Gen 1 Campy 10. Shifts very well, better I'd say than the SRAM crank it replaced even if the spacing between the rings appears to be slightly larger.
MTB 2x cranks are certainly an option if you can live with the wide Q-factor and limited/no 180mm options. Not everyone can (I can't) so it's VBC or nothing. |
#17
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Although I generally run a 12 tooth gap with VBC cranks for day to day setups, I do switch from a 32/44 to a 28/42 for rides like the Almanzo 100 and have had very good shifting. The 12 tooth gap is admittedly better though IMHO.
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#18
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I was thinking of getting a 48-34 setup and a 52-38, 14 pins between instead of 12. and trust me, i appreciate the honesty from them, Lynette has been awesome. I am not knocking White Industries in any way, only passing on the info. I'll probably try one, if it doesn't work, ill find something else.im sure someone will use it.
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#19
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Quote:
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#20
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Running WI vbc 11 speed, 50-38 with campy drive train and all is kosher. Works as good as or better than all Campy. WI BB is rock solid. The main reason I chose WI was for the low Q.
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#21
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I have probably seen more WI cranks teamed up with campag than I have with SRAM or shimano. As others have said, I wouldn't expect it to shift as good as a campag crank but it's probably comparable to the same crank with shimano.
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#22
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I'm curious how you achieved a lower Q with the VBC, short BB spindle? Campy Ultra Torque cranks are 145.5 and a VBC with recommended 113mm BB is 150.
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#23
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Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#24
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shimano, sram and campy have a lot of intellectual property in this area. An all campy, all SRAM or all Shimano drivetrain will ALMOST always work better than a hybrid.
If you need the ultra super fastest quickest best lightning front shifts the VBC or RH cranks probably aren't for you. If you just need it to shift in time for the upcoming hill I would not worry about it.
__________________
please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#25
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Digging this one up from 4 years ago. I wanted to chime in with this thread as it just seemed appropriate. However, if the powers that be would like to keep this Campagnolo specific just message me and I’ll start a new thread.
I have a White Industries VBC 48/32 crankset with a White Industries square taper bb with a 113 spindle shifted by a SRAM Force 22 (Yaw) front derailleur. When shifting, my chain is wanting to wedge between the big ring and little ring. It’s happening when dropping the chain down to the small ring from the big ring. The spacers used between teh rings are wide enough to where the chain doesn’t get caught so to speak, it will just ride in between until I shift back up to the big ring. It is fairly sporadic and doesn’t seem to matter too much where I am in the cassette. I need to shift mindfully down into the small ring or I may find the chain between the two rings. FWIW, I read here and there that shifting on the VBC isn’t always as smooth as some may expect, especially if accustomed to modern 11 speed drivetrains. The chain is proper length, the front derailleur is adjusted “properly”, cables and housing are good, drivetrain has around 550 miles total. I checked the chainring bolts as well as the lockring securing the chainrings to the crank arm, double checked torque on crank arm to make sure it was on the spindle properly, tried another Red 22 chain and double checked that the small ring is oriented properly (which I believe it is). I have tried adjusting the height as well as the rotational angle of the front derailleur, all while trying to not negate the Yaw function. I have the small marked lines on the fore and aft of the derailleur cage aligned properly over the big ring, and height is appropriate. I have used this derailleur for years and has always performed flawlessly. The common denominator here is the VBC crankset, and my own wrenching skills? I’ve set up lots of front derailleurs (Yaw and non) and haven’t had this happen to where I wasn’t able to adjust it out in one way or another. What am I missing? I’m curious if anyone else has experienced this while setting up the VBC crankset. I’m open to suggestions, as I would really like the shifting to be thoughtless as can be. Maybe it won’t be? |
#26
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Quote:
Gunnar Crosshairs with VBC 44/28, UN72 68x107 bb, KMC 11 spd chain, old Veloce FD shifts well for me. Centaur RD and shifters work great with a 105 11-32 cassette. I have not run a Campy crank so I can’t compare. This is a recent set-up so I’ll see how it works out long term. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#27
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Quote:
Nobody else experiencing shifting woes with the VBC? |
#28
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Until about five months ago, I was on bikes with 33 and 34-tooth small chainrings. Then I started to ride a lot more -- cutting out the commute to work and not having to get the kids to school helped -- regained my fitness, and am perfectly happy on 39-tooth (Campagnolo) chainrings again, even in the hilly East Bay. Moral -- ride more bigger chainrings, eh?
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#29
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tbqh it doesn't work that great with shimano either
I can confirm this. Mine is quite worn where the spacers have hard edges that catch the chain and prevent clean shifting. |
#30
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Quote:
I went as far as flipping the orientation of the small ring, which didn’t seem to help at all. I’m really at a loss here. Only thing I can conjure up at this point is trying different spindle lengths. I run one of their R30 cranks on another (Shimano) bike and the shifting is flawless. Different q factors, but pretty sure the two cranksets use the same chainrings. |
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