26.0 Road Bars w More Reach

[truth]

Rene Herse has some nice bars with more reach than is in fashion these days. I believe the parallel bars have little to no flare while the rando bars have a bit of flare.

Edit: They're 25.4 clamp but easy to shim to 26

[bicycletricycle]

the parallel bars have a little flare

Originally Posted by truth

Rene Herse has some nice bars with more reach than is in fashion these days. I believe the parallel bars have little to no flare while the rando bars have a bit of flare.

Edit: They're 25.4 clamp but easy to shim to 26

[rccardr]

Dadgum auto correct. As I said, however.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle

the parallel bars have a little flare

Yeah. Probably close to 12 degrees.

The rando bars have about the same degree of flare, but then the bar is also bent upward closer to the stem.

[Nomadmax]

Paceline members can be counted on for everything; maybe even furnace repair

The replies definitely put me on the right track. BicycleTricycle's photos/PDF really did the trick (he was also kind enough to e-mail it to me). I'm going to order a set of 176's and mount them up.

I did get a PM regarding the Soma Hwy Ones and Nitto M151s. I don't have a photo hosting site to post pics of the differences between the two but I'd be happy to email photos of my bikes with both of them mounted. Essentially, the dropped portion of the Highway Ones extend further back toward the rider than the M151s.

There is the dimensional difference of 2mm less drop and 3mm more reach on the 151s. Apart from that, they both pretty much feel the same. Personally, I feel the sleeved Nitto 151 looks a little more "vintage" with the center sleeve and shorter drop portion.

Thanks to all

[pdmtong]

Is there a single place where the various model Nitto bars are described ?

Rivendell says the noodle is model 177. It has a slight back sweep (tops angle slightly rearward) and 4d flare ( ends wider than hoods)

Model 176 looks similar but I can’t figure out the difference

I set my noodle up with the ends parallel to the ground so there is a down ramp from the tops to the hoods. That effectively gives me two bar drop positions. My preference for the hoods and probably 1cm more upright for the tops

If you want a flat smooth transition from top to hood the end has to be angled so it’s pointing towards the rear dropout.

I really like the shaping and ovalized top that a modern bar can provide. Never liked the interface between my non padded gloves and a classic bar. Recently solved this with some slightly thicker bar tape. Fizik bond cush.

[Dino Suegiù]

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle

I took some photos for OP of these bars, thought I might share them here.

The topic of this thread is no longer in my wheelhouse at all, in fact have been selling the last of my 26.0 bits, but I would like to state that the photo-montage above put together by bicycletricycle is fantastic, really clear, I'm sure very helpful, with a lot of considerate effort behind it.

Bravo.