Help Removing Campagnolo Shifter Clamp Band

[wc1934]

Attempted to remove shifters so I could switch handlebars.However, I can not loosen the shifter clamp bolt as it appears to be stripped. For the other side I had used a 4 mm allen key which was fine, but it is to small for this side (and 4.5 is to big).

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!!!

[zmudshark]

Newer clamps are Torx.

[ultraman6970]

This, some models came torx. T25 if im not wrong.

Originally Posted by zmudshark

Newer clamps are Torx.

[tuscanyswe]

Yes T25 if newer levers. "newer" ss in something like 2010+ or so

[Ralph]

I use a long shaft T25 screw driver (or whatever it would be called). And I go in from the side, don't have to peal the hood back. I find I can put more pressure on the hex head, avoid stripping, by pushing the screw driver hard, than I can on some other tools I have.

[gfk_velo]

Originally Posted by wc1934

Attempted to remove shifters so I could switch handlebars.However, I can not loosen the shifter clamp bolt as it appears to be stripped. For the other side I had used a 4 mm allen key which was fine, but it is to small for this side (and 4.5 is to big).

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!!!

From the factory, all UltraShift / PowerShift except current Centaur11 are Torx T25. Current Centaur11 is 5mm hex.

Bear in mind if the levers are not new, that left and right may not be the same (though presumably you would have seen that at installation) and that the Torx and Allen bolts can be interchanged.

If a 4mm allen "sort of" fits and a 4.5 doesn't, there's a very high likelihood it's a Torx bolt.

Don't try and force the bolt with an allen key, you may so damage the Torx socket that the bolt will not remove easily, even with the correct tool.

Use a long T25 driver, slide it under the hood on the outer side of the "knob" on the lever and feed it back under the hood to engage the bolt in as near to a straight line as you can. More recent levers have a small channelled area to help you do this, moulded into the lever body.

If the T25 socket has been damaged by repeated attempts to use the wrong key type, or a short "multi-tool" key from the side, a T30 key slid under the hood as described above will usually engage and work but we'd advise replacement of the clamp bolt.

The Torx bolts do save weight and avoid the problem of ball-end allen keys damaging the 5mm hex socket versions but you do need to use the correct key, in a straight line.

[fignon's barber]

OP, if you've got an older shifter with an allen bolt, or the bolt is mangled to the point that you can't tell whether it's a torx or allen, use a reverse thread screw extractor, available for a few bucks at Home Depot.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by fignon's barber

OP, if you've got an older shifter with an allen bolt, or the bolt is mangled to the point that you can't tell whether it's a torx or allen, use a reverse thread screw extractor, available for a few bucks at Home Depot.

And if you can, take the hood off yo give you a better view. Newer ones made of aluminum, then torx..to 'save weight'...gads..never saw a steel 5mm one get stripped...they weren't 'heavy' either..Once the thing is out, get a 5mm steel one..I know, I know, really heavy but.....

[fignon's barber]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Newer ones made of aluminum, then torx..to 'save weight'...

Maybe to prevent rust?

[Spaghetti Legs]

If the bolt is stripped, another option is cut a slot with a dremel and use a flat head screw driver to remove.