Col de la Cayolle

[velotel]

Col d’Allos was too good. I wanted more. No problem, Allos has a fraternal twin, Col de la Cayolle. They start with the same umbilical cord out of Barcelonnette, then split. Next morning, on the road to Col de la Cayolle. Almost the same vertical as Allos but achieved in 30 K instead of 20K so had to be easier. Figured it wouldn’t take me all that long, tired legs or not. Laughed at that afterwards.

Left Barcelonnette with no real idea of what I was heading into other than climbing another mountain to another col. Instead found myself spinning alongside a small river toward a narrow gorge. Stopped to get some pics as I was heading into it and right after I put the phone back in my sack, a Porche GT3, or some model like that, clearly very fast whatever it was, and then a Ferrari, no idea which Ferrari other than a newish one with, I think, the motor in back, came rumbling out of the canyon. They were past me before I could even begin to think about grabbing the phone. Swiss plates, must have been enjoying themselves driving fast over the col.

Back to spinning, the canyon getting narrow, the road a lane-and-a-half, sometimes generously. Maybe those Swiss weren’t driving as fast as I imagined. Lot of water in the river, surprising given the drought France has been suffering. Looked good for white water boating when the river’s high. The rock walls looked potentially good for climbing though admittedly my eyesight isn’t strong enough to really see what I was looking at. I was loving going uphill while spinning small, for me, cogs. Could be an easy day on the bike. Still no idea where the road was taking me, other than clearly not up a mountain.

The gorge widened, road hooked over the river on a narrow bridge, and the climbing bit kicked in. End of cruising mode. Hot too. The gorge was all shadows and cool air, the road often wet with dew. Now it was zero shade and southern exposure with the sun baking walls of rock the road sliced across. A one-laner for a good distance, with occasional wide spots for passing. Those Swiss drivers with their super expensive cars must have been nervous through this section. It was in here when I finally realized where I was. At one of my photo/water/rest pauses I looked back down the valley and saw high on the slopes across the gorge the road to Allos. I knew it was the road to Allos because I knew there were no roads in the triangle between the two roads. Plus when I’d been on the road to Allos, I’d looked down and seen a road in a valley and wondered where it went, never for a moment thinking it was the road to Cayolle since obviously the road to Cayolle would be zigging up a mountain, not down in some narrow valley. But there I was, on the road to Cayolle in a narrow, hot valley.

Wilderness as Americans know wilderness is pretty much non-existent in France. People have been living here for so long and in such numbers that there are towns, villages, hamlets, farms, scattered homes everywhere. But not here. Hadn’t seen any houses, barns, cabins, anything since before entering the gorge. Not even any trails on the slopes. The silence was beautiful, just the soft warbling hiss of my tires and the muted sound of water running over rocks and small drops.

Between the grade and baking sun I was going through water at an impressive rate. If it kept up like this to the col I’d be waterless for a long time. Finally spotted part of a roof further up the valley. Where there’s a roof, there’s water. Never did see what was holding up the roof. It was in a small forest that the road passed below. Then another roof, this one attached to an old farmhouse/barn that was either deserted or rarely used.

The slope the road was angling across finally relaxed enough that there were meadows and scattered trees but I can’t say that the road’s grade changed. It wasn’t steep as much as sustained, but steep enough that I rarely moved off the second cog to the third. My reality these days. Two switchbacks, first ones so far. I stopped in the first to get some pics and as I was about to put the phone away saw a Nissan GT-R coming down and swinging into the turn. Talk about rare cars, at least in France. I think Ive seen a grand total of half dozen over the years. And here’s one on the road to Cayolle, and that’s after seeing the Porche and the Ferrari earlier. Didn’t seem in a hurry; probably already figured out this road isn’t about driving fast.

Multiple roofs ahead, maybe some water. Small hamlet straddling the road with a fountain of cold spring water. I’m drinking and filling bottles, legs enjoying the pause, and a young woman on a bike flies by, heading up, on a mission, maybe doing the 3-col loop, Cayolle-Champs-Allos. I used to want to do that, when I was younger. Hard ride, 120 K, 3300 vertical (65 miles, 10800 ft). Each year the valley cycling club does a supported (3 feed stations) ride/race over the cols. Super popular apparently. Easy to understand her hurry given how it’s already afternoon and she’s got a long way to go, assuming her start was Barcelonnette.

Bottles filled, legs refreshed, on the road, climbing but mostly easier grades than earlier. Still traversing south-facing slopes with no wind and full-on sunshine. Regular pizza oven. No idea where the col is, other than somewhere way on up the valley the road’s following.

A junction of two valleys up ahead. My guess is the road follows the valley to the right.
Over a sort of crest and I’m spinning bigger gears on a slight downhill grade past some scattered houses. And riders coming the other way rolling fast, in a group, voices excited. They didn’t pass me going up so they came up the other side which means they’re maybe on the last leg of the three col loop. Happy campers, All downhill to the end of their day.

I’m semi-coasting downhill then swing right onto a bridge over the now quite small river. Another group of cyclists coming down, carrying relaxed speed while they’re all talking. Into a series of switchbacks in a forest. Grades feel steeper than anything so far and I’m contemplating hitting the big cog. But don’t. The steepness peters out and I’m out of the woods and into another valley. The same valley but visually completely different. The valley so far has been remote, quiet, even a bit daunting with its high, steep sides but this upper valley redefines gorgeous.

It’s wider, more U-shaped, and greener than the lower valley with a strong sense of being high in the mountains. Obviously not all that high since the col is at 2300 meters and it’s not even in sight yet but for me, from the point when I left the forest and entered this upper valley I felt like I was riding through a wonderful alpine environment. Lot of the slopes rising to the summits of the enclosing ridges look like they’re swept clean by avalanches during the winter. Road a laner-and-a-half of blacktop snaking over the slopes, glued to every contour twitch. Wonderfully peaceful, a place for cruise mode, breathing the silence, eyes staring in wonder.

No sign of human presence, outside of the road, nor sign of where the col is either. Just this long valley slicing into the mountains. And always climbing, though relatively gently. No idea how long I’d been riding, how many Ks I’d done, the questions never even crossed my mind. Hadn’t seen any more cyclists either and only a handful of cars. Like riding through a deserted national park.

In the distance a wall of trees and maybe a plateau or another small valley above the trees. Looked like the main valley curved to the right past the trees. Turned out to be the case, sort of. The plateau is a wide, shallow basin below a long, soft ridge on which I eventually found the Col de la Cayolle. The main valley swung right but, like the plateau, at a higher elevation. The trees grew on a steep step the road climbed up via long traverses past a small waterfall. Then it was a some long curves through groves of trees and finally out into a wide, shallow basin. Had a good laugh after exiting the forest. A triangular road sign with black silhouettes of two marmots and underneath in block letters 15 K and arrows pointing up the road. Not much further up the road there’s a young marmot out in the road watching me until he races to his den and dives in followed by another. Regular marmot heaven up there.

A long curl to the right past a refuge/restaurant then another to the left followed by a traverse and I’m on the col. And not alone. More cyclists, all from the other side and from pieces of conversations overheard, all doing the 3-col tour. I’m tired, the ride longer and harder than I’d imagined. And magnificent. Totally different from Allos. And like Allos now firmly planted in the small crowd at the top of my best.of the best list. Excellent descent too, not as exciting as Allos but faster and even twistier than I thought it would be when I was riding up. Would have been even faster but afternoon inevitably means wind blowing up the valley. Fantastic, a total have-to-ride.

Having now ridden all three cols, Allos, Champs, Cayolle individually I have to label the 3-col loop a have-to. I’d love to but realistically also know that’s no longer a possibility for me. Waited too long. Oh well. But what a magnificent ride. For me the big question is which direction, counter or clock, Allos/Champs/Cayolle or Cayolle/Champs/Allos. I think I’d do the clock so I’d end with the plunge off Allos. But I’m also pretty sure counter-clockwise has the best climbs.

[tv_vt]

Ugh, I'm sitting at my computer as it's raining out the window, bike sitting in the garage with the tires all pumped up, looking at these darn photos of pure blue sky and gorgeous scenery. Count your blessing, Hank!

[yarg]

Spectacular, I can see why it's on your best of the best list!

[thwart]

Lovely!

Bet you’d move a little faster up those cols if you lost some weight.

[mhespenheide]

Every time I see a new Velotel post, I know I'm going to be jealous.

And them I'm going to wrestle with the tension between thinking that big wilderness areas in the mountains are good things (they are!) and wishing there were lots of tiny shoestring roads running through our mountains.

[sokyroadie]

Amazing write-up and pictures, as always

[HenryA]

[OtayBW]

Geez- awesome. And that gearing. What'd'ya got on that thing? Thx.

[Spinner]

This is one of your finest threads. Thanks for letting us ride with you.

[Dr Luxurious]

See, THIS is why I want to plant my butt on the continent for about 18 mos! So I can do epic $#@! like this!

So cool

[AngryScientist]

Looking fit and happy Hank! Good on ya and thanks for sharing, as always.

[velotel]

Originally Posted by OtayBW

Geez- awesome. And that gearing. What'd'ya got on that thing? Thx.

Sram 10-50 12-speed cassette with a Sram 1x crankset, 38-tooth ring, electric RD, also Sram

[martl]

Great story as always, I really enjoy your reports - thanks!

The Cayolle is one of my favourite rides in the French alps, the round trip over Allos and Champs is one of the great rides imo. I take it over more famous rides like Apps d Huez or Bonette any time.

[XXtwindad]

Great write-up and pics! I have to make room in the Bucket List.

[lavi]

Very nice.

I mapped the loop of Allos to Champs to Cayolle. Starting/ending in Barcelonette is 120k.

Seems like it would be fabulous. And likely fabulously difficult too.

I'll get back over there someday.