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The geometry of the gravel bike copies over my current road bike set up (is that sufficient? or I need to search for a gravel bike with that geometry?). What I mean is that the saddle to handlebar reach on my road bike is the same as shown in the geometry and the stack is the same as well. The only difference is that reach is 378mm on my road bike + 120mm stem while it is 403mm reach + 100mm stem on the "longer" version of gravel bike. I honestly have been surprised by how aggressive my position is but I haven't felt major discomfort on ~4hrs road rides. Not sure if that is of any value? Do you think I should still consider going less aggressive? I am planning to do more 5-6 hrs ride this summer to make sure there is no problem but I feel like it's hard with really long rides to know if some soreness is just inevitable or indicative of wrong-fit? For the records, though I have felt some soreness on my back at times during my 4-6 hours ride, the sensation goes away if I just get off of the saddle and stretch for a couple seconds and I have never finished a ride with back pain. Perfect! Yeah, I should just stick with ultegra. I have never used Rotor crankset before so good to know about the shifting experience. I was just on a weight-weenie mode for the past couple days looking at Rotor but I don't think it's worth the $500-600 extra. |
#2
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__________________
Kirk MRB, Alliance G-road, & Top Fuel. |
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#4
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__________________
Kirk MRB, Alliance G-road, & Top Fuel. |
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55cm is a lot of top tube for somebody of your height. And as others have said, that headtube is quite short for a tt of that length (applies to both of your drawings). This could be the correct TT + HT dimensions for you, impossible to know. I'm 5'10" (178cm) and ride 55 or 56 TT bikes. (and one with a 57 TT and a shorter stem which feels fine)
It sounds like you're able to get long and low and if that's the case, then perhaps it's spot on! Comparing the ride between the two drawings - I don't see a whole lot of difference there. I think most folks couldn't differentiate a 71.7 vs 72 degree steerer, at least I don't think I would. With tires that big, I'd suggest you think about lowering the BB a little bit. |
#6
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Do you think I should consider 78mm to 80mm BB drop? |
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I'm about the same size.. I pick #2 I think bigger front center and shorter stem works better for off road.
some thoughts, I like a bit more stack on the gravel bike to look around on trails. If you're super flexible then probably not an issue, but if you get into more rugged terrain it may help. Even if you think you'll be running 35-38 try to design with 45-50 clearance, I continue to get wider. (went from 35 to 43 on 700c and have 47-2.1 on 650) there's not much of a penalty in my opinion with the quality of tires now. Finally get some fender mounts, makes my winter road riding better! |
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#9
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mine's probably 25mm higher stack and about 1/2 that in reach shorter overall. I can fit my 43 GKSS under fenders (I hate "swamp butt" )
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IMO BB drop should consider the smallest diameter wheel/tire combo you anticipate, and how you ride. I like as much drop as is reasonable on my bikes. My Bingham has 75mm drop and is designed for 650Bx38 tires. In theory, that gives a BB height of (584/2+38)-75=255mm, or just over 10 inches. That's pretty low! In practice, it's a couple of mm higher because the GK slicks measure 332-333mm in radius on the BTLOS rims, not 330mm. For many years I rode the original style Eggbeaters with the Ti axles, which are shorter than the stock steel axles, and provide very good cornering clearance. Recently I switched to Eggbeater 2 pedals with steel axles, and they are wider. For the first time that I can remember, I hit a pedal on the pavement pedaling through a tight turn recently!
My all road bikes are not set up for rowdy off road riding, more for the type of dirt roads we have in New England. So when I ride something like D2R2 I'm a bit more careful than others might be on the bits of jeep road/single track. Usually I have 42mm tires on, so get a bit more BB height. My Firefly was designed with 78mm drop which in theory gives a BB height of 258mm with 700Cx25 (622/2+25)-78=258. That seems low for a road bike but in practice it measures 265mm. The radius of the GP5000 700Cx25 tire on Easton R90SL rims is 341+mm, and I think the BB drop may be very slightly smaller than what the build sheet shows. I'm sure that framebuilders know a lot more than I do from a few measured data points what actual BB height will result for a given wheel size and tire size based on the BB drop. And I know that people's opinions of minimum BB height will vary too. |
#12
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Hey if it works then it works. You are very flexible and/or have a long torso and arms. Everyone is different, so getting a bike fit and custom bike is exactly why its so cool that everyone can be different and have a bike that works for them. Just wanted to make sure the outlier number(reach) was pointed out. Sounds like its on purpose so cool. |
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I run 40c Conti Terra Speed tires. The bike is exactly what I was going for. Lots of road sectors where I'm at to get to the gravel. Most of the chunky stuff isn't terribly long in duration and the bike handles it just fine. Depending on the route 70ish miles or so I'll bring a small CamelBak and 2 bottles, never have to stop. Had a DT cage on my checkpoint, never liked it, a stainless Arundel cage couldn't hang on to a bottle when things got rowdy.
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