Drilling a Ti Frame for Di2?

[David Kirk]

Where will you stuff the cable junction box?

dave

[eddief]

in the shell under the bb and stuff the box at the bottom of the downtube...or is the opening there too small?

Originally Posted by David Kirk

Where will you stuff the cable junction box?

dave

[David Kirk]

Originally Posted by eddief

in the shell under the bb and stuff the box at the bottom of the downtube...or is the opening there too small?

Due to the shape/size of the box and the way the wires plug in to the end of it I can't picture how it could fit within the BB shell while the bearing unit is in there. They typically need to be pushed up into the down tube and on most tigged metal bikes the hole from the BB into the down tube will not be near large enough to allow the box with wires plugged in to fit through.

dave

[tv_vt]

Originally Posted by echappist

Yep. He is the person I contacted for my retrofit. The prices are quite reasonable as well.

And they were who I thought of immediately when I saw the OP's question. Ti Cycles built a ti quill stem for me. It came out perfectly. Good shop.

[P K]

Originally Posted by David Kirk

Due to the shape/size of the box and the way the wires plug in to the end of it I can't picture how it could fit within the BB shell while the bearing unit is in there. They typically need to be pushed up into the down tube and on most tigged metal bikes the hole from the BB into the down tube will not be near large enough to allow the box with wires plugged in to fit through.

dave

You could put the B-junction in the seat tube.

[echappist]

Originally Posted by P K

You could put the B-junction in the seat tube.

or the down tube, for that matter

[David Kirk]

Originally Posted by P K

You could put the B-junction in the seat tube.

That could work.....you'd need to use really long wires from the other areas so that they could all be long enough to come out of the seat tube to get clicked into the B-box but that should work.

I'd for sure want to secure the post-battery wire very well to the B-box so it can't come unclicked if you pull the post out. It would suck to have that wire mess stuffed down into the lower seat tube and not be able to get it out!

dave

[Gummee]

I would have a tendency to bet that one of Shimano's new new things here in the next year is going to be wireless Di2 so unless you HAVE to have that bike Di2 RIGHT NOW, hold off for a bit.

No, I don't have any insider info, but I DO have a hunch

M

[FriarQuade]

Originally Posted by notsew

People are so precious about stuff. I can't imagine how this could possibly be problematic.

Buy a nice new carbide bit for it.

Carbide in hand tools is asking for trouble. It's a great material for cutting tools but if everything isn't locked down it's pretty unforgiving and you'll be snapping your $50 drill bit in the blink of an eye. Titanium doesn't require carbide by any means, especially for just a couple holes. A center drill is perfect for holes in round tubes.

[tomato coupe]

Originally Posted by FriarQuade

Carbide in hand tools is asking for trouble. It's a great material for cutting tools but if everything isn't locked down it's pretty unforgiving and you'll be snapping your $50 drill bit in the blink of an eye. Titanium doesn't require carbide by any means, especially for just a couple holes. A center drill is perfect for holes in round tubes.

Yep, I'd go with cobalt (M42). Titanium work hardens, so try not to let the drill dwell.

[morrisericd]

Just an FYI...

This thread made me think about drilling my new(ish) to me Routt RSL. I called Moots and:

1. They will do it for a reasonable price. I think it was $100.
2. They told me their dropouts are a maze and that I would never (unless I was really lucky) be able to drill in the right spots to connect the top of the stay to the back of the dropout.

I've decided to hold off for now as I'm making my current setup work, and while the drilling part is inexpensive, when you add in a refinish (required, I believe) and shipping it's around $500.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Gummee

I would have a tendency to bet that one of Shimano's new new things here in the next year is going to be wireless Di2 so unless you HAVE to have that bike Di2 RIGHT NOW, hold off for a bit.

No, I don't have any insider info, but I DO have a hunch

M

Like no threadless headsets and until fairly recently, no BB30 cranks, I doubt it.
shimano does it their own way.
I think they are going to be all in on 12s, with a 'smart' front der ala XTR, but still wired(maybe only 1 shifter)..at least the ders..'maybe' wireless shifters talking to ders but still hardwired ders to battery..

[eippo1]

Originally Posted by shoota

Anybody with the correct drill bit can do it. My buddy drilled his Ti Warbird for Di2 and it worked perfectly.

I have a Ti Warbird and was thinking about using the new water cage mount for the internal battery. Really slick looking and could be used as a b-junction as well. Already have cables along the top tube so I'll just run the wire along, drop down and then around for the rear derailleur.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/s...-battery-mount


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[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by Jere

Out of my 15,000 miles I put 3000 miles on a Sram WiFi and it worked faultless.
Shimano components and Sram Red chain

SRAM WiFi? Where do you stash the router?