What's the sweet spot for 11s cassettes and chains?

[Smitty2k1]

I've got a Shimano 105 R7000 groupset on my Black Mountain Road+. It currently has an 11-30t cassette in the rear but I'm finding myself in the 30t cog for climbing pretty regularly. I think I'd like to move up to an 11-32t cassette on my next chain swap, which should be happening soon.

What do you find to be the sweet spot for cassettes and chains in terms of series/level/cost? Should I just stick with a 105 R7000? Any reason to splurge on an Ultegra or look at SRAM offerings? Any pros or cons to mixing and matching?

[djg21]

Originally Posted by Smitty2k1

I've got a Shimano 105 R7000 groupset on my Black Mountain Road+. It currently has an 11-30t cassette in the rear but I'm finding myself in the 30t cog for climbing pretty regularly. I think I'd like to move up to an 11-32t cassette on my next chain swap, which should be happening soon.

What do you find to be the sweet spot for cassettes and chains in terms of series/level/cost? Should I just stick with a 105 R7000? Any reason to splurge on an Ultegra or look at SRAM offerings? Any pros or cons to mixing and matching?

Chains and cassettes are consumables. Buy relatively inexpensive ones and then change the chain at regular intervals (1,500 miles or so) so you don’t wear the cassette and chainrings prematurely. There is no reason to splurge.

[palincss]

Originally Posted by djg21

Chains and cassettes are consumables. Buy relatively inexpensive ones and then change the chain at regular intervals (1,500 miles or so) so you don’t wear the cassette and chainrings prematurely.

Do you suggest replacement at 1500 miles because you're finding unacceptable elongation and wear at that point?

[djg21]

Originally Posted by palincss

Do you suggest replacement at 1500 miles because you're finding unacceptable elongation and wear at that point?

No. I change chains before they elongate so they don’t wear out the cassette. It’s early, but I don’t use expensive chains and my cassettes, which are relatively expensive, last longer. As I said, it also makes swapping wheels much less problematic.

[AngryScientist]

i am in the djg21 camp. i use cheap KMC chains and change them often. i'd rather change a 20 something dollar chain a few times a year rather than even worry about chainrings or cassettes. my bikes dont stay clean for very long either.

[velotrack]

i've just always used ultegra cassettes and ultegra/DA/x11sl chains - chains don't vary much in price so i usually match to my group, past ultegra the DA and SRAM red cassetttes get really pricey.

^but i definitely get more than 1500 from a chain but tend to ride in nicer conditions.

[GregL]

Originally Posted by Smitty2k1

I've got a Shimano 105 R7000 groupset on my Black Mountain Road+. It currently has an 11-30t cassette in the rear but I'm finding myself in the 30t cog for climbing pretty regularly. I think I'd like to move up to an 11-32t cassette on my next chain swap, which should be happening soon.

What do you find to be the sweet spot for cassettes and chains in terms of series/level/cost? Should I just stick with a 105 R7000? Any reason to splurge on an Ultegra or look at SRAM offerings? Any pros or cons to mixing and matching?

For the cassette, you're already there. 105 has always been the value leader for Shimano components. Stick with R7000 for the cassette. I've become a fan of the KMC EPT series for chains. They seem to last longer in CNY's rusty environment. I use the KMC EPT chains on several otherwise all-Shimano drivetrains with good shifting results.

Greg

[steelbikerider]

comparison of chain life test
https://www.velonews.com/gear/we-wen...what-we-found/

[buddybikes]

1500 miles seems bit early, would think close to double this.

What do others do?

[KJMUNC]

Originally Posted by steveandbarb1

1500 miles seems bit early, would think close to double this.

What do others do?

I thought the same.....I don't keep track....I swap out when they a.) break, b.) show clearly noticeable wear, or c.) I buy/sell a bike

I did change out chains recently when I added a new cassette. I tried the YBN SLA-H11 as mentioned in the VN article and it's been great so far!

[Bob Ross]

Originally Posted by steveandbarb1

1500 miles seems bit early, would think close to double this.

What do others do?

1500 miles is the minimum for me...but I've changed an awful lot of chains at 1501.

I've also gotten 3000-4000 miles out of a chain on occasion. But way more often it's <2500. And never >4000.

[AngryScientist]

to answer the original question - i have a bunch of both due to happenstance, i have never noticed one lick of difference operationally between a 105 and ultegra cassette.

i use KMC chains.

[josephr]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

to answer the original question - i have a bunch of both due to happenstance, i have never noticed one lick of difference operationally between a 105 and ultegra cassette.

i use KMC chains.

+1 --- and ride the crap out of them until worn out, then replace both. Gotten 4-5k miles out of one set.

[djg21]

Originally Posted by josephr

+1 --- and ride the crap out of them until worn out, then replace both. Gotten 4-5k miles out of one set.

That’s great if you use only one set of wheels and never use a different cassette, but you are more likely to have to replace the cassette and chain together, and you also will prematurely wear your chainrings, which can be expensive if you ride a higher-end groupset. Decent chains cost about $25. I like to avoid being penny wise and pound foolish.

[palincss]

Originally Posted by djg21

That’s great if you use only one set of wheels and never use a different cassette, but you are more likely to have to replace the cassette and chain together, and you also will prematurely wear your chainrings, which can be expensive if you ride a higher-end groupset. Decent chains cost about $25. I like to avoid being penny wise and pound foolish.

Is using the chain to the wear specification being pound foolish? Are you saying the specification here on the Park Tool web site for when to replace allows for too much wear before replacement, thereby damaging the rest of the drive train?