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  #16  
Old 01-23-2007, 03:37 PM
stevep stevep is offline
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build the front wheel first.
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  #17  
Old 11-18-2015, 07:02 PM
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weisan weisan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ergott View Post
Make your first wheels you build last the longest.

Ultegra hubs (Record if you own Campy, sorry no more Chorus except NOS)
Velocity, Mavic, DT or IRD rims.
Sapim Race, DT Competition or Wheelsmith DB 14 spokes (they're all good)
brass nipples
32 spokes 3 cross all around

It's really basic, but its a formula that has worked for over a century. If you plan on building more than one set of wheels in the future here are some tools I recommend that aren't too expensive.

Park tensiometer (decent accuracy)
Wheelsmith rim rods (the only way to get a good ERD is to measure yourself).
Dish tool
Good spoke wrench (Spokey is good and cheap)
antiseize compound
grease
truing stand (an upside-down bike can work)

To get consistent results, get the components together and measure them. Don't get the spokes until you have all the measurements and have plugged them into a calculator (www.dtswiss.com has a great one). I have seen ERD (effective rim diameter) numbers supplied from the manufacturer that have been off by enough to have the wrong length spokes. Nothing is worse than building a set of wheels and finding out you have the wrong length 3/4 into the build.

Building them right does more to making wheels that last more than buying the best components.

Get the books mentioned above (Sheldon's site is also a must read) and set aside plenty of time. To plan on finishing 2 wheels in one night. Concentrate on one wheel and the front is a good place to start. Patience is your best tool. Post your results. You will be fine.
As I was gearing up for my first build, I went back and re-read Ergott pal's post. He shares his knowledge freely, keeps no secrets.
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2015, 10:44 PM
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Scooper Scooper is offline
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I've found the e-book The Professional Guide to Wheel Building by Roger Musson to be a great step-by-step tutorial. I've built a half dozen wheelsets so far, and this downloadable e-book (pdf) for ~$15 has answered every question. It's profusely illustrated and very readable.

I've no connection with the author other than that of a very satisfied customer.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2015, 05:16 AM
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ergott ergott is offline
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Wow, almost 9 years ago! Not much has changed, just a couple of names on the list.

Nice work digging!

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  #20  
Old 11-20-2015, 01:16 PM
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Scooper Scooper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ergott View Post
Wow, almost 9 years ago! Not much has changed, just a couple of names on the list.

Nice work digging!

Oops! Missed that it was a zombie.
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  #21  
Old 11-20-2015, 01:38 PM
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weisan weisan is offline
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I just ordered the Spokes from Dan's Comp...cheap cheap cheap!

Did I already say they were really cheap?!



If all the stars align, I will be having some fun building two wheels during Thanksgiving, at least on one of the off days...

Wheel #1
Rim: 28h Pacenti SL23 (new version)
Hub: DT 350
Spokes: Sapim 14g
Nipples: Brass
Pattern: 3X

Wheel #2
Rim: 32h Pacenti SL23 (new version)
Hub: Shimano 6800
Spokes: Sapim 14g
Nipples: Brass
Pattern: 3X

I couldn't find my Jobst book.

Online resources:
Sheldon Brown
Mike Tech Info
Roger Musson

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OldPotatoe
Austex
"Michael"

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  #22  
Old 11-20-2015, 03:54 PM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weisan View Post
I just ordered the Spokes from Dan's Comp...cheap cheap cheap!

Did I already say they were really cheap?!



If all the stars align, I will be having some fun building two wheels during Thanksgiving, at least on one of the off days...

Wheel #1
Rim: 28h Pacenti SL23 (new version)
Hub: DT 350
Spokes: Sapim 14g
Nipples: Brass
Pattern: 3X

Wheel #2
Rim: 32h Pacenti SL23 (new version)
Hub: Shimano 6800
Spokes: Sapim 14g
Nipples: Brass
Pattern: 3X

I couldn't find my Jobst book.

Online resources:
Sheldon Brown
Mike Tech Info
Roger Musson

Virtual Coach/Lifeline
OldPotatoe
Austex
"Michael"

Is the DT350 front or rear? Since ya already got the spokes..if front, really should do 2 cross but 3 cross won't hurt anything.

AND next time, may ask..double butts make for a more reliable wheel than straight gauge BUT straight gauge will work as well. Yes, Dan's Comp are cheap..$.40 for Race spokes..
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2015, 05:03 PM
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weisan weisan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
Is the DT350 front or rear? Since ya already got the spokes..if front, really should do 2 cross but 3 cross won't hurt anything.

AND next time, may ask..double butts make for a more reliable wheel than straight gauge BUT straight gauge will work as well. Yes, Dan's Comp are cheap..$.40 for Race spokes..
Thank you master. Both sets are rear wheels. I have got some practice with building a front wheel already. I got tons of quality front wheels...would love to have a few more wide rim rears. And I don't mind mix-matching rims.


I was just kicking myself about this. I was planning all along to do the race spokes/db but when I got on the phone, I totally forgot...and when they sent me an email notification to tell me the stuff is shipped (credit to Dans Comp, they shipped the same day), that's when I realized my mistake. Oh well, next time, yes?
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  #24  
Old 11-20-2015, 06:27 PM
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dsimon dsimon is offline
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SOO Im a big guy

Im 5'10 and well about 225 on a good day and I have H-plus Son archtype to WI T-11 28 hole front and rear 2x and i belive 14g spokes and I am so happy with them.
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  #25  
Old 11-21-2015, 06:25 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Once upon a time, long, long ago, double butted spokes were the things of magicians and skeptics and ALL wheels were built with 14 or 15g straight spokes and for decades and decades, these worked just fine.

Yes, double butts, in the 'grand scheme of things', whatever that is, make for a 'more durable' wheel but again, many, many wheels still built with modern, straight gauge spokes that see wheel lives measured in years, sometimes decades.

I just built a wheelset with Sapim Strong spokes. Which are essentially straight gauge with a 2.3mm butt at the elbow. REALLY nice spokes, not expensive either. If the spoke hole on the hub is big enough, great choice for 'heavier' riders.

So much mystique about 'butted spokes'. BUT I have built with a $25 hub, $35 rim and 32 or 36 straight gauge spokes and the wheel is fine for it's purpose, thanks.

BUT for the OP..lace inside pulling if doing 28 and 3 cross. Minimizes bend of pulling spoke over flange.
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Last edited by oldpotatoe; 11-21-2015 at 06:44 AM.
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  #26  
Old 11-21-2015, 06:32 AM
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weisan weisan is offline
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yessir!
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2015, 07:09 AM
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weisan weisan is offline
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one more question: is washer needed for this build?
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2015, 07:14 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weisan View Post
one more question: is washer needed for this build?
Washers under the nipple at the rim? Kirk says no for v2...
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  #29  
Old 11-22-2015, 07:28 AM
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weisan weisan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
Washers under the nipple at the rim? Kirk says no for v2...
OK...I could have sworn that I heard him said "yes" on the phone...but that was several months ago, I could have remembered incorrectly. The way he put it was, not necessary but recommended.
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  #30  
Old 11-25-2015, 08:42 AM
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weisan weisan is offline
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Wheel #2 all laced ready for some fun on the truing stand.
32h Pacenti 105 hub straight gauge 14g brass

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