|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
functional differences between tapered and 44mm headtubes
OK, I am on a roll, so I apologize for my queries this AM.
I think I am aiming towards a frame that accepts a tapered fork on my upcoming bike. what is the difference between a 44mm and a tapered headtube? Both will accept a 1.125 to 1.5" fork (think ENVE adventure fork) and its just a matter of what headset will be required, right? Is the 44mm HT just to allow a bigger weld area for the TT and DT? The tapered HT looks more elegant, but get pretty tall (at my size). Thanks for a simple education on this. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The tapered head tubes are 44mm at the bottom (or bigger for internal headsets). A straight 44mm head tube is simpler, not sure if anyone really needs a bigger diameter to weld top tubes to If you have a straight 44mm head tube then the top is spaced out for the 1 1/8" section of steerer. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Functionally, the tapered one will weigh a little less, and might limit your ability to use a really large top tube.
The reason we don't see more tapered head tubes is really just a matter of fabrication. 34-44 tapered titanium head tubes from Paragon Machineworks cost about double straight 44 head tubes of the same length. And after that, it is more difficult to miter the top and down tubes to fit against a tapered head tube compared to a straight one. So it's more expensive to produce, and you never noticed the difference if you were riding blindfolded, but if you like the look of tapered, go for it.
__________________
Instagram - DannAdore Bicycles |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, not sure if elegant is the right word or just curvy, but it reflects the taper of the fork. I used to think they were horrible, but my stance is softening.
Thanks folks. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
If you use a Ritchey disc fork with the 1.125" steerer - bam, problem solved. MAX tubing would be a great choice here.
__________________
www.hampsten.blogspot.com |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Functionally, a 44mm headtube allows you to do anything, 1 1/8", 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" steerer or crown. There's very little functionally in terms of welding or anything. And you can use a variety of tubing sizes with both headtubes.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Downside to those Ritchey forks is the integrated race. Limits headset options.
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Not really, imho. It uses a different lower bearing to work with the integrated race; my bike has a Ritchey WCS headset and we've done others with Cane Creek or White Industries simply by swapping out one bearing. I don't know if it works with King but my guess is it will.
__________________
www.hampsten.blogspot.com |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, there’s this option, but as I plan on having giant tire clearance, the Ritchey fork won’t cut it. I want to venture into XC 29er tire territory.
Also, I want really standard headset options. Obviously the most standard is to use a straight steerer and a steel fork and that’s an option, but thinking an OS HT would be better if switching a fork later. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
There's also the 1 1/4" lower that's become popularized on road bikes (and maybe lighter duty grave bikes?), but as you're looking at going burlier, 1.5" lower might be the way to go? |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
I stand corrected! Looks like Ritchey makes an adapter for Chris King headsets bearing angles. Might look funky transitioning between crown and headtube, but the part exists.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/36...adventure-fork |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
The Ritchey fork is the business (speaking as an Outback owner). Tapered carbon fork steerers are very stiff and strong, but this isn't appropriate for every use case, and I think originally tapered forks came from the mountain bike world where they made a lot more sense.
All that said I prefer the 44mm headtube look to the tapered look, provided the other tubes are oversized to match. Also looks great with oversized Ti and Al alloy tubes. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
|
|