A "Correct" Way to Position Levers on Handlebars

[marciero]

Originally Posted by jambee

Thanks for the great advise everyone. I tilted the bar forward as suggested and moved the levers forward.

Picture attached.

In comparison to the Mae Parallel, if the position i found is the "correct" position, I'm likely to go back to the Mae Parallel. The reach becomes extreme and I find it hard to ride on the levers. It's really an interesting experience since the Mae Parallel are great and I enjoy them a lot, but i wanted to see how these bars behave.

Trying to make sure there is no user error before making a final decision :-)

This is *roughly* how I have mine. Difficult to compare these to most of the bars pictured here as they are very different, especially the modern compact bars with "ergo" bends. Setting the last 1" of the drops parallel to the ground on those still results in your hand being at an angle-even with your hands at the end of the drops, as much of your hand is on the inclined portion. I have the B135 on one bike. Those have rando bends but the drops are much more parallel to the tops on those, and they have much less drop. Not sure about the VO that ColonelJLoyd posted.

If you removed headset spacers to compensate for added height of the tops that would have increased reach by 0.5 cm. On the other hand, these bars have significantly more drop than the MP. So mounting these in the same position on the steer tube will result in drops in roughly the same position as the MP and higher tops.
Another difference with these and MP is that with the same lever and drops orientation, and with the tops, which are very flat, angled slightly upward, the MP results in the hoods being 1-2cm higher than with the rando. This may be one reason that the rando bars "play" a little longer- as if they had more reach. This is my experience anyway, as someone whose two main bikes have the rando bars on one and MP on the other. T

I'd encourage you to try a shorter stem, even if just to make the experiment complete.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by cinema

traditionally one installs the levers where the base of the lever is even with the bottom of the drops. so place the bars flat on a table and move them down until the ends are touching the table. it's a good starting point.

And have the handlebar ends pointing at the rear brake bridge..place to start and then find the place that's most comfy...

[joevers]

Originally Posted by jambee

The reach becomes extreme and I find it hard to ride on the levers. It's really an interesting experience since the Mae Parallel are great and I enjoy them a lot, but i wanted to see how these bars behave.

Trying to make sure there is no user error before making a final decision :-)

The reach is extreme on both of them tbh. But yeah, where you've got the levers in the picture is pretty close to what one would consider "correct". Personally I'd tilt the levers up the slightest bit and the bars down the slightest bit. How'd you have them mounted on the other bars? Have you got a pic of that?

[jambee]

Good question about the MP setup. Picture attached.

It was an amazing setup which I enjoyed a lot.

[ColonelJLloyd]

I think you've got the tilt/angle of the bars pretty close. Your Ergos are too far forward, though. At least for me. I would move them back. The angle of the lever as it relates to the tops will be close to what you had on the Maes bend bar.

Over the years I tried most of the randonneur bend bars out there. Ultimately I preferred the VO Maes bend (Course model). They are not light, though, and use a 26mm stem. Reach is long compared to modern bars, but this is desirable in some cases and appropriate lever reach is achieved with a shorter stem.

For a couple years I have been using the Ritchey EVOmax, which has a short reach, is lightweight, ideal flare (just a bit more than the VO Course), and tops/drops that are close to parallel. Big fan of that bar.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by jambee

Thanks for the great advise everyone. I tilted the bar forward as suggested and moved the levers forward.

...

I am noticing that your bars look different than mine. Are we talking about the same bars? Could just be camera distortions of angles...

[jambee]

The original ask was about the Rene Herse Rando bars.

The latest picture with the graffiti is the Rene Herse Mae Parallel.

I still need to bring the levers back on the Rando bars to see if they work :0)

[giordana93]

It's a compromise between 4 basic landmarks and set by feel. The drops should be set first, somewhere between 1) parallel to the ground and 2) pointed at the rear hub (pointed at rear brake bridge as Old P said is good start). as long as you don't feel like your hands are sliding off. Then set levers between 3) flat with tops (but that usually makes it hard to grab brakes from the drops unless you have big hands) and 4) further down bend, with bottom edge of lever aligned with bottom of drops (the old ruler edge trick)

modern bars and hoods allow for flatter transition on tops than traditional, older shapes, which have that space that FlashUNC called the notch. If you absolutely want a flat transition at tops, you shouldn't be using the old school equipment.

[jambee]

So I moved the levers up as you good folks recommended.

WOW.

The change in comfort is really a game changer. My wrist now feel to very lightly rest on the hoods and the reach is awesome. Will take it on a big spin this weekend and report back.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by giordana93

modern bars and hoods allow for flatter transition on tops than traditional, older shapes, which have that space that FlashUNC called the notch. If you absolutely want a flat transition at tops, you shouldn't be using the old school equipment.

Does not apply so much to these MP parallel bars. Paired with modern hoods I have them set up about as flat as I could get with any modern bars I've ridden. Plus they feel flatter because there is actually some real estate there before the hood. The most significant thing about modern ergo bars is the short reach. There is no on-the-ramps position. They are going to feel flat because you are always on the hoods. I might be overstating a little but with large hands this has been my experience. On the other hand, "old school" bars are obviously not designed to have horizontal or slightly upward angled ramps, so you will get a notch unless you want either your hoods facing downward or the drops at an unrideable angle. This might apply to the MP Maes bend. I've not tried those.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Absolutely nailed it, jambee. Way to stick with it.

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by jambee

So I moved the levers up as you good folks recommended.

WOW.

The change in comfort is really a game changer. My wrist now feel to very lightly rest on the hoods and the reach is awesome. Will take it on a big spin this weekend and report back.

That looks* much better.

[jambee]

Team work!

[Hindmost]

That looks "correct" to me. With your hands in the drops can you easily get one or two fingers to the sweet spot on the brake lever?.. this often gets lost in the discussion on positioning.

[d_douglas]

I just saw this and I now give my blessing for ‘correctness’

Looks great! What frame is that? You always seem to ride cool bikes...