Mixing Campagnolo components

[robt57]

What calipers did you use, and how happy are you with the lever pull for them?

Good looking sled.

[bfd]

Originally Posted by robt57

What calipers did you use, and how happy are you with the lever pull for them?

Good looking sled.

Not sure if this is helpful, but when I built up my DS in 2017/18, I teamed a Chorus 11 drivetrain with a SR crank and get this...ready...Sram red brake calipers! Works perfectly. Of course, YMMV!

Good Luck!

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by robt57

What calipers did you use, and how happy are you with the lever pull for them?

Good looking sled.

Yeah, this is a flat mount frame so I just used the Campag H11 calipers. Purchased a hope RX 4 front because my original front caliper was bad and the warranty took longer than expected. Never installed it and returned it.

The H11 systems work well. Great modulation and strong stopping power when needed.

[vespasianus]

After ~1000 miles:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/attac...1&d=1600101594


I ended up replacing the RD with a mid-cage Chorus 11 speed and the crank with an H11 unit - which is incredibly light and makes the Potenza crank feel like a lead brick.

For the most part, everything works well. The only thing I notice is that once every ride, I can't shift down the cassette (larger to smaller). The button won't move. I need to shift up (smaller to larger) using the lever once to be able to shift back down.

Not sure what is going on and only happens once a ride (or every other ride).

The Campagnolo disc brakes are far and away the best disc brakes out there - or at least compared to Shimano 105 and Ultegra! The have amazing modulation and huge stopping power when you need it.

Bike is generic carbon with an Italian name. I think I like my Tommasini more.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

For the most part, everything works well. The only thing I notice is that once every ride, I can't shift down the cassette (larger to smaller). The button won't move. I need to shift up (smaller to larger) using the lever once to be able to shift back down.

This is a known issue that can sometimes happen. Google for "ergo-lock" for discussions on it. This issue can happen in either direction, and is caused when the opposite lever has not fully disengaged from its toothed ratchet ring. Next time it happens, instead of shifting a gear with the downshift lever, try pulling the downshift lever outward to disengage from its ratchet ring instead.

The solution is to find out why the lever is not disengaging from its ratchet ring. This could be because the lever is caught up on the rubber hood, because the lever pivots have excess friction, or because of a worn or damaged return spring.

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

This is a known issue that can sometimes happen. Google for "ergo-lock" for discussions on it. This issue can happen in either direction, and is caused when the opposite lever has not fully disengaged from its toothed ratchet ring. Next time it happens, instead of shifting a gear with the downshift lever, try pulling the downshift lever outward to disengage from its ratchet ring instead.

The solution is to find out why the lever is not disengaging from its ratchet ring. This could be because the lever is caught up on the rubber hood, because the lever pivots have excess friction, or because of a worn or damaged return spring.

Thanks. These are brand new shifters so I am going to assume the are not worn. I will check the hoods as well as the cable routing and how the cables interact with the bar.

[robertbb]

Originally Posted by gfk_velo

On the subject of RDs - Potenza RDs do not generate sufficient reverse pull on the cable to correctly operate the UltraShift levers which require a minimum return pull of 1kg at the lever to operate the overshift mechanism. Potenza mechs generally generate (depending on cable friction) around 900g at the lever. In some cases, when everything is new and the cable runs are simple, a user can "get away with it" but it's picky to adjust and adjustment tends to drift badly with wear and tear.

Hi Graeme

One thing I'd love to know (curiosity more than any desire to do so), is whether the opposite will work - Potenza HO shifters and C/R/SR HO rear derailleur. Just curious as to whether this might be a nice way of getting the EPS-style droopy thumb lever on an otherwise Chorus setup. (The brake lever could be easily switched out to retain the aesthetic.)

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

Thanks. These are brand new shifters so I am going to assume the are not worn. I will check the hoods as well as the cable routing and how the cables interact with the bar.

Ergo-lock generally has nothing to do with the cables. If you take a look at the the shifting lever and button, you'll see that there are actually have two pivots - the main pivot is on the shifter central shaft, and then there is a secondary pivot a short distance from the main pivot. The secondary pivot is for engaging the ratchet ring, and this pivot has a weak spring so that that the ratchet ring is engaged with the first movement of the lever/button. Because this spring is weak, it doesn't take much to extra friction to keep this pivot from getting stuck, and not spring back when you release the lever/button. If the pivot doesn't spring back,, the ratchet remains engaged. And when the ratchet remains engaged, you can't shift in the opposite direction.

The most common cause of the extra friction that keeps the secondary pivot springing back is if the hood or handlebar tape is rubbing against the lever. That's where I'd check first. Make sure the lever is completely free, and nothing impairs its movement.

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

Ergo-lock generally has nothing to do with the cables. If you take a look at the the shifting lever and button, you'll see that there are actually have two pivots - the main pivot is on the shifter central shaft, and then there is a secondary pivot a short distance from the main pivot. The secondary pivot is for engaging the ratchet ring, and this pivot has a weak spring so that that the ratchet ring is engaged with the first movement of the lever/button. Because this spring is weak, it doesn't take much to extra friction to keep this pivot from getting stuck, and not spring back when you release the lever/button. If the pivot doesn't spring back,, the ratchet remains engaged. And when the ratchet remains engaged, you can't shift in the opposite direction.

The most common cause of the extra friction that keeps the secondary pivot springing back is if the hood or handlebar tape is rubbing against the lever. That's where I'd check first. Make sure the lever is completely free, and nothing impairs its movement.

Will do. You think it would be OK to squirt some twi-flow into the area and around the button?

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

Will do. You think it would be OK to squirt some twi-flow into the area and around the button?

If the upshift (larger to smaller sprocket) button won't move, the problem is that the downshift lever is still engaged. So lubricating the upshift button won't do anything. You have to find out what why the downshift lever won't disengage.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by robertbb

Hi Graeme

One thing I'd love to know (curiosity more than any desire to do so), is whether the opposite will work - Potenza HO shifters and C/R/SR HO rear derailleur. Just curious as to whether this might be a nice way of getting the EPS-style droopy thumb lever on an otherwise Chorus setup. (The brake lever could be easily switched out to retain the aesthetic.)

Yes,it'll work fine(Not Graeme)..But remember Potenza are PowerShift, one higher gear at a time via the thumb button, but it'll work fine and dandy.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

Will do. You think it would be OK to squirt some twi-flow into the area and around the button?

Probably the thumb button is being fouled and not returning all the way up, as Mark has mentioned. Since they are new, the pivot of the thumb button is probably free to pivot(check by just pushing down on the thumb button a little bit, not shifting but just a wee push down, see it pivot?). When it pivots up, it disengages from the tooth part of the actual shift disc..allowing the front shifter blade to move. PLUS the thumb button 'plate' runs on a steel shift disc and some steel shims, so spray in there..

[g00se]

It's also worth checking that you're not riding with your thumbs on the buttons - sometimes you can accidentally partially engage the ratchet - thought that may be more of an issue if the levers have worn a little.

[vespasianus]

Thanks everyone. Time for me to do some work.

On a side note, I ended up getting a centaur group to go on my old Tommasini. Works really well and but one thing I noticed is that with ultra shift, you get used to being able to go up or down multiple gears at once and is hard to go back.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

Thanks everyone. Time for me to do some work.

On a side note, I ended up getting a centaur group to go on my old Tommasini. Works really well and but one thing I noticed is that with ultra shift, you get used to being able to go up or down multiple gears at once and is hard to go back.

Yup. This is especially true if you came from downtube shifts, as I did many years ago before I started using Ergo shifters.