1X Gravel gearing: what works for you?

[livesadventure]

I’m running 40t with a 10x42. Some climbs in the headlands and on tam are hard work with that gearing. A 46 in the rear would be ideal, though I don’t think the 9 is necessary


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[John H.]

You could go to a smaller front chainring?

Originally Posted by livesadventure

I’m running 40t with a 10x42. Some climbs in the headlands and on tam are hard work with that gearing. A 46 in the rear would be ideal, though I don’t think the 9 is necessary


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[livesadventure]

Originally Posted by John H.

You could go to a smaller front chainring?

I likely will, though I’m also holding off to see if I can swing a force x eagle x01 axs group




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[XXtwindad]

Originally Posted by livesadventure

I likely will, though I’m also holding off to see if I can swing a force x eagle x01 axs group




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Hey Luc,

I was thinking the same thing, but my local mech said the Eagle group is only compatible with MTB shifters. Internet research seems to suggest it can be done, so I don't know ...

[MattMay]

Originally Posted by livesadventure

I’m running 40t with a 10x42. Some climbs in the headlands and on tam are hard work with that gearing. A 46 in the rear would be ideal, though I don’t think the 9 is necessary

For that exact reason...and I had the exact gearing...I replaced the 42 cog on my X01 cassette with a 46 Wolftooth cog because for the mtb trails I often ride I need a bailout gear sometimes.

If you have a SRAM 10-42, it’s like a 3-minute job to swap cogs. Screwdriver to remove the old and pliers to replace with the new. And they have different colors...added benefit if you want some bling, and way cheaper than replacing the entire cassette.

Adding the 46 did not require any chain adjustment, just a b screw adjustment.

[XXtwindad]

Originally Posted by MattMay

For that exact reason...and I had the exact gearing...I replaced the 42 cog on my X01 cassette with a 46 Wolftooth cog because for the mtb trails I often ride I need a bailout gear sometimes.

If you have a SRAM 10-42, it’s like a 3-minute job to swap cogs. Screwdriver to remove the old and pliers to replace with the new. And they have different colors...added benefit if you want some bling, and way cheaper than replacing the entire cassette.

Adding the 46 did not require any chain adjustment, just a b screw adjustment.

Matt -

Thanks for the info. Would you give your complete set-up (derailleur, crankset, shifters, cassette, etc.) Much appreciated.

[Mzilliox]

I use 42 front. That gets me up 25percent grades. 1 to 1 is pretty reasonable for difficult climbs. I think 38 in front should be plenty

[Mzilliox]

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

Look guys, I don't like 1X either, it is just not for me and where I ride BUT lets be honest, OP wants and has 2x, you really think you going to change his mind. Oh, this guy on an internet forum says my gear choice is bad, let me go spend $1000 to change it.

I have no experience with 1X, I think it works for some people, maybe it would even work for me but from ridding what I have I am happy so I am not willing to change. However when I briefly though about it I would like to have gears that are 1 step less than 1:1 so I would probably keep what you have. However, 38 would not give me the low end I want so I may have done 40 in front, depends on how much non gravel you are doing really

Exactly. 1x is super fun on gravel. And that clutched rd lets me descend fast. Yeah. 2x works, but you get a bunch of useless gears and more chain drops. Plus when i crash theres less to mess up. You cats who discount 1x on gravel confuse me. Its gravel, who needs close steps?

[tbmurd]

Anyone tried the e*thirteen 9-42 for a little extra on the top?

[tbmurd]

Actually - bigger question is whether that little cog works ok on that cassette

[gdw]

Bigger question... how long will it last if you actually use it often?

[tbmurd]

Good point!

[AngryScientist]

i think the best approach is to decide how low of a gear you need, convert it to gear inches and start there.

for example, on my gravel bike(s), i have 30f/32r as the lowest gear. this yields 25.4 gear inches. that is comfortable for me to climb the things i have encountered, so that's what i would want to stick with on the low end.

then, determine how fast you reasonably need to go on the top end. for example, if i'm on my gravel bike going over 25 mph, i'm coasting, and dont need any more top end gearing.

so, with a reasonably available cassette stack, say 11-42, with a 38t ring, that get's me just a little lower than my 30/32 and at the top end, 38/11 gets me almost to the 46/13 area, which is plenty on the top end for me.

that's the basic analysis i did to determine the gear stack i would start with, which is a sensible approach i think.

that said, i think the best way to see if you like 1x and if your body and cadence will tolerate/appreciate it is to just try it and see.

[XXtwindad]

Originally Posted by tbmurd

Anyone tried the e*thirteen 9-42 for a little extra on the top?

I used a e*13 9-44 on an MTB a few years back and thought it was great. A little heavier than the XX1 stuff, but on road and gravel the top end would come in really handy, allowing you to run a smaller ring up front. I think the 9-42 sounds like a great solution.

[XXtwindad]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

i think the best approach is to decide how low of a gear you need, convert it to gear inches and start there.

for example, on my gravel bike(s), i have 30f/32r as the lowest gear. this yields 25.4 gear inches. that is comfortable for me to climb the things i have encountered, so that's what i would want to stick with on the low end.

then, determine how fast you reasonably need to go on the top end. for example, if i'm on my gravel bike going over 25 mph, i'm coasting, and dont need any more top end gearing.

so, with a reasonably available cassette stack, say 11-42, with a 38t ring, that get's me just a little lower than my 30/32 and at the top end, 38/11 gets me almost to the 46/13 area, which is plenty on the top end for me.

that's the basic analysis i did to determine the gear stack i would start with, which is a sensible approach i think.

that said, i think the best way to see if you like 1x and if your body and cadence will tolerate/appreciate it is to just try it and see.

There are other factors, as well. For example, if I recall correctly, you've got more of the "classic cyclist" build, and I go 200lbs. With 15% grade dirt (and asphalt), even with the smaller ring, riding a 32 cassette in the back would be miserable.

I like to think of the advent of new technology as "comfort" bikes, rather than "gravel" or "disc" bikes.