#1
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Bleeding hydraulic brakes
I trimmed the housing for my XT brakes and then had a soft lever. I bled/burped, finally got a good solid lever. Removed the 'bleed block' (yellow thing), put in my pads and mounted the caliper back on the frame/rotor, and once again got a soft lever. What gives?
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#2
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You need to make sure that the adjustment for the lever travel (I forget the technical term) is completely unscrewed.
...or you could still have air in the system M |
#3
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If you put the bleed block back in.. are they still solid?
New pads? As the pads get to the end of their wear, the lever travel will increase. |
#4
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Quote:
The pads are new - these are new brakes, just had to shorten the hose to fit |
#5
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The lever just needs to be pumped to set the pad distance. It should firm up again.
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#6
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Funnel bleed with pads and rotor in. Then it’ll be happy.
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#7
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Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#8
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I assume you mean I need to burp the system
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#9
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put the funnel with a bit of oil on the lever.
pump the lever until bubbles stop coming out. ride bike. |
#10
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Yep, got it, thanks.
Now to wait for the funnel and more oil to arrive |
#11
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I hope this isn't excessive thread drift...
I'm about to set up Shimano road hydros - RS685 and RS785 calipers. Is it easier to get the system filled and bled with the equipment off the bike? I can imagine hanging the caliper vertically below the lever to maximize the potential for bubbles to flow up. |
#12
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Taking the caliper off and letting it dangle has been good for me with those brakes.
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#13
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I let the caliper dangle when I did the XT...not sure where the bubbles came from once I mounted it back up
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#14
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Just an FYI, for those who don't know, it's beneficial to cut the hose at the top, or lever side.
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#15
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If you are starting from a new hose, lever and caliper, can you say why?
Thanks |
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