Removing Brake Ferrule from Shimano Shifter

[jamesau]

Hi All.

Does anyone have an easy way to remove an aluminum brake ferrule from a shimano (7800) shifter?

Ferrules don't belong in these shifters. This is the 2nd preowned set I've picked up that had this issue. The first one I reamed out, but there must be a better way.


Your ideas/experiences would be appreciated!

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by jamesau

Hi All.

Does anyone have an easy way to remove an aluminum brake ferrule from a shimano (7800) shifter?

Ferrules don't belong in these shifters. This is the 2nd preowned set I've picked up that had this issue. The first one I reamed out, but there must be a better way.


Your ideas/experiences would be appreciated!

I see this ALL THE TIME in Campag ERGO also..HUGE PITA..I have a slightly smaller than 5mm rat tail file..cram it in there, pull ferrule out.

[nicrump]

should be able to sneak it out with an easy out of the correct dia

https://www.google.com/search?q=easy...nt=firefox-b-1

[staggerwing]

Since a ferrule is not threaded, it doesn't make any difference if you twist clockwise or counter-clockwise to remove. Point being, a 10-32 tap might be just about the right size (~4.8mm) to gain sufficient purchase on the inside to extract. And taps are generally easier to find. Even a self tapping #10 sheet metal screw might work.

[dddd]

Originally Posted by staggerwing

Since a ferrule is not threaded, it doesn't make any difference if you twist clockwise or counter-clockwise to remove. Point being, a 10-32 tap might be just about the right size (~4.8mm) to gain sufficient purchase on the inside to extract. And taps are generally easier to find. Even a self tapping #10 sheet metal screw might work.

Great idea, and for that matter a right-sized drill bit might get a hold of the ferrule so it can be pulled out, with the drill motor doing much of the work.

[jamesau]

Thanks all for the advice. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks but will report back after I go back to town on this shifter.

I like the idea of the tap if I can find the right size. I do have some ez out type gizmos but will need to check if any are a suitable size.

I did use a deck screw to partially engage the cable-exit end of the ferrule yesterday. I was able to apply quite a bit of removal force but the screw pulled out before the ferrule did.

I'd be a bit nervous about using a power drill; it just seems things could go way south in a hurry.

Thanks again.

[dddd]

Originally Posted by jamesau

Thanks all for the advice. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks but will report back after I go back to town on this shifter.

I like the idea of the tap if I can find the right size. I do have some ez out type gizmos but will need to check if any are a suitable size.

I did use a deck screw to partially engage the cable-exit end of the ferrule yesterday. I was able to apply quite a bit of removal force but the screw pulled out before the ferrule did.

I'd be a bit nervous about using a power drill; it just seems things could go way south in a hurry.

Thanks again.

You can chuck a drill bit into a Vise-Grip plier and apply a controlled amount of force and feed rate, just as when using a tap. The tap might offer more overall grip than a drill bit for a firm pull using hammer taps against the side of the big Vise-Grip facing the installed lever (mimicking the effect of a slide-hammer to pull the ferrule out with some impact).

Anything inserted in the ferrule also will expand it outward, tending to increase the already-fierce grip of the ferrule in the hole. Possibly the best method might be drilling out the wall of the ferrule, and then pulling out the remaining tip of the ferrule with the deck screw.

The only danger with a drill bit would be if it went beyond merely bottoming in the ferrule and drilled through into the lever housing, since you need to preserve the flat bottom in the hole for support of the end of the bare housing.

Worst case, you could drill out the ferrule to 90% of it's length, and then put a new ferrule in it's place, which should work perfectly if you select an appropriately-sized bit. Any shavings from drilling should be ejected by the drilling action, but use gravity in your favor when pulling the bit out (downward) to keep the hole free of particles.

Some metal ferrules have a looser fit on the OD of the brake cable housing, so if you choose to use a ferrule after drilling, use one of those and bevel the ferrule entry to make it easier to insert the cable. That way, if the ferrule gets stuck/corroded you can leave it in place indefinitely even when servicing cables years from now.

I don't recall ever coming across aluminum brake cable ferrules, since the wall thickness needs to be so thin. Only at the "noodle" of a V-brake is the brake cable ferrule ever aluminum afaik.
If it's an alloy derailer ferrule, thus with a smaller ID, leaving it in place might be practical if the plastic is stripped from the end of the new brake cable housing just enough to enable easy insertion into the ferrule.

[nicrump]

I'd prefer to keep my taps sharp and in good order and use the ez outs as intended. Now if the OP has none of these on hand, a 10-32(assuming its tapered correctly) might be cheaper but a set of 5 ez outs is only $10 @ lowes and will be useful down the road.

Either way too much wrangling on that cheap ferrule is only going to malform it and make it harder to get out.

Originally Posted by staggerwing

Since a ferrule is not threaded, it doesn't make any difference if you twist clockwise or counter-clockwise to remove. Point being, a 10-32 tap might be just about the right size (~4.8mm) to gain sufficient purchase on the inside to extract. And taps are generally easier to find. Even a self tapping #10 sheet metal screw might work.

[dddd]

My EZ Outs are tapered such that they wouldn't be able to go into a deep hole far enough to reach and grab a ferrule. Taps and drill bits have their cutting size along a mostly straight OD that can get in there and do the business.

[nicrump]

My #3(for 5/32 drill) was a perfect fit and grab.

[dddd]

Looks like a perfect fit!

I could only guess how tight that a ferrule might get stuck in those holes. And maybe not as far in as I imagined(?).

[jamesau]

Originally Posted by nicrump

My #3(for 5/32 drill) was a perfect fit and grab.

Picked up a Ryobi #3 Spiral Screw Extractor from Home Depot for $3.45.
That and a pair of pliers made easy work of this!! Big relief!!
Thanks again, guys!!!

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by nicrump

My #3(for 5/32 drill) was a perfect fit and grab.

BUT did you wear safety goggles??