hows this saddle work? SMP drakon

[Geemalar]

I’m using the SMP Gilders on all of my bikes, I’ve got the nose down approx 1/4 inch from level and it seems to work best in that position for me.

From your pictures it seems like the nose is a bit too high, but best you try and find what position works for you......

[ls1togo]

I've had Drakon's, Dynamic's and I now ride Lite 209's on all of my bikes. By trial and error, I've settled on about 2 degrees nose up and like others, I had a homemade gauge consisting of a flat plate and a dial gauge to set the angle. My one observation is the saddle is very sensitive (or I am!) to a degree or two..and most saddle clamps are not as accurately adjustable.
All of that being said, I wouldn't ride anything else.

[fmradio516]

thanks all. I will play around with it this week!

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by semdoug

I set mine up using a level and adjust about a half bubble width down at the nose. It took a while to get it adjusted and there is definitely a sweet spot. I believe Selle SMP recommends a few degrees downward at the nose of their saddles.

What he said and also proper width is really key. I found the 'Pro' was too wide, also the 'scoop' was too pronounced..settled on Glider..started level, straight edge, back to front..

In addition, starting with 'proper' fore aft and saddle height and knee bend is key also..I 'start' with that awful and much maligned "kops'..a place to START, don't start whining!!

These are kinda all or nothing and why decent bike shops have test ride programs..BUT, to get them 'right' requires some effort...re-->bike fit...

For level-post 6, yes, high points, between those.

Start by running it level (front to back high points) and adjust as needed. Just because some people like it 2.5 degrees or whatever doesn't mean that will work in your case.

WHAT he said..everybody's bum/hips/torso/reach/etc, etc is different. I use mine about 1/2 'bubble' on a level, nose UP...VERY comfy FOR ME..never had any issue, never had 'sleepy winky'...

[C50]

Lots of good advice has already been shared but thought I would offer me help if and when you needed it, don't hesitate to message me. Some general thoughts, there is no right or wrong but there is optimal for you. If you look at the official installation procedures (slightly different way of measuring angle but it gets you to the same place) you will find that the way that has been talked about measuring the angle of the saddle which I actually prefer and use myself will give you a range from about +2 degrees up in the front all the way down to about -8 degrees. Steve Hogg's article which has been linked is an excellent and detailed review. The vast majority of people will end up in that zone of -2 to -5 degrees but that is just the middle of the Bell curve and there are a lot of people who will fall out of that if that is what works for them. Personal physical characteristics, model choice and bike setup along with other variables all play a factor in the equation of dialing in your perfect fit. Slight adjustments can make big differences not only with tilt but also with fore/aft placement and typically if you are going to move the saddle when first trying a Selle SMP saddle it will come foreword, initial installation guidelines state that it can move forward up to 1.5cm forward to keep your same position but that is highly dependent on what saddle you are coming from and how good your position was to begin with so take all of that with a grain of salt.

There was a comment about saddle rails and the lack of uniformity in the industry which is 100% correct and that can be frustrating but I don't see how that is any different from a lot of other industries where if a standard is going to adopted every company wants all the others to adjust to theirs instead of them changing to their competitors so everyone stands around looking at each other with no progress being made. Believe me, I have been in those industry meetings and that is exactly what happens. I won't speak to any other company's design but I will say there is a lot of engineering and reasoning behind the design of the Selle SMP seat rails. First, the angle is designed so that as you move the saddle fore/aft you are not also changing your seat height as you do with most saddles. It is a 3:1 ratio as far as height so that as the saddle moves forward it also raises the height and as you move it back it lowers so you do not also have to change or adjust your seatpost height to compensate. Secondly, since the rails "extend" across the back of the saddle for increased stability it also increases strength so that you can have longer useable rail length for positioning purposes. This may add a few grams of weight (stainless steel rails but all models are also offered with a carbon fiber option as well) but you end up with a higher quality, stronger, more useful and better functioning design. I don't think anyone else in the industry will adopt the Selle SMP design and we aren't going to change to someone else's and give up all the advantages that ours offers so we are back at the place of nothing standard between companies.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by C50

... initial installation guidelines state that it can move forward up to 1.5cm forward to keep your same position but that is highly dependent on what saddle you are coming from and how good your position was to begin with so take all of that with a grain of salt.

This has been my experience with the Forma and Dynamic, two saddle that I love. When putting them on, I go from a 12-20mm setback post to zero setback, and that has worked for me really well.

My only problem with them is that I sometimes like to skooch forward on the saddle when climbing steep hills or TT'ing on flat ground, and the SMP just doesn't work that well for that - especially the unpadded ones. This is where I've found that a narrow and unpadded, but flat, saddle works best - the Airone 00 for example - especially for a racing setup with lots of drop.

[fmradio516]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

This has been my experience with the Forma and Dynamic, two saddle that I love. When putting them on, I go from a 12-20mm setback post to zero setback, and that has worked for me really well.

My only problem with them is that I sometimes like to skooch forward on the saddle when climbing steep hills or TT'ing on flat ground, and the SMP just doesn't work that well for that - especially the unpadded ones. This is where I've found that a narrow and unpadded, but flat, saddle works best - the Airone 00 for example - especially for a racing setup with lots of drop.

ah maybe thats part of my problem. I usually use a zero setback post and for some reason i stuck this saddle on a setback post(probably cause it was all i had laying around w/o a saddle on it). So ill try swapping that over today.

[C50]

If you tend to like to move forward I would recommend checking out the F30/F20 models that offer a greater ability to move around if desired. The F30C and F20C are shorter and completely flat versions of those saddles. The discussion of how and why the "C" versions get flatter as they get shorter heads off on a tangent but since those models are newer there are a lot of people who are still not aware that they exist in the Selle SMP lineup so worth checking out.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by C50

If you tend to like to move forward I would recommend checking out the F30/F20 models that offer a greater ability to move around if desired. The F30C and F20C are shorter and completely flat versions of those saddles. The discussion of how and why the "C" versions get flatter as they get shorter heads off on a tangent but since those models are newer there are a lot of people who are still not aware that they exist in the Selle SMP lineup so worth checking out.

Excellent. I'll check those out!

[Pierre]

I would give up on that thing altogether and get an ISM. ISM accomplished what this saddle only tries to do: get pressure off the middle. But that’s just me. ISM is what finally saved me from getting off my bike and chucking it into a ditch. It allows me to literally bike all day and still be able to get it up. Sorry probably too much info.


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[fmradio516]

Originally Posted by Pierre

I would give up on that thing altogether and get an ISM. ISM accomplished what this saddle only tries to do: get pressure off the middle. But that’s just me. ISM is what finally saved me from getting off my bike and chucking it into a ditch. It allows me to literally bike all day and still be able to get it up. Sorry probably too much info.


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im married, so thats a non-issue. thanks tho!

[Pierre]

Originally Posted by fmradio516

im married, so thats a non-issue. thanks tho!

Hah - I can appreciate the humour in that.


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[Dave]

I use the same 25mm setback post with my SMP Stratos as any other saddle I've used in the past. I've never found a use for a zero setback post.

[bicycletricycle]

the middle part should be close to level, with the nose pointing down and the rear ramping up a little.

[fmradio516]

Wellll I leveled her out and took it for a spin. Had to keep inching back on the saddle and felt like i couldnt keep weight off my hands. adjusted a few degrees up and had the same weight on my hands with the added discomfort of a tweaked angle.

into the fire pit it goes!