#1
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Kinlin XR26T or Pacenti PL23 v2?
I've amassed parts for a fixed gear roadie somehow without the COVID-19 inventory issues being a factor. Until the last part which snagged me; the 24h Velocity Quill I need is back-ordered.
It seems I can source both the Pacenti PL23 v2 and the Kinlin XR26T. I don't want to spend the bucks for Belgiums or Easton EA90 if I can even find them. I definitely want tubeless rims. Assuming the two rims are the same price, which pair should I go with? I've read the brake track on the PL23 v2 is pretty narrow. I'll be using TRP RG957 with SwissStop pads. I believe these are the shorter/narrower pads so should be fine. But, are the XR26T brake tracks taller? |
#2
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Better question is: Is the XR26T welded?
Why no mention of the H+ Sons Archetype...
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This foot tastes terrible! |
#3
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I have a set of both rims here and I am measuring a little less than 9mm on the Pacenti rim and and a little over 10mm on the xr26t. I really like the Kinlin rims for the price. I have my wife and daughter on a set of 26t and my son on some 31t.
Jake |
#4
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There is your answer. I have also been avoiding non-tubeless rims, even if I plan to use tubes for now.
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#5
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I can't speak to the Pacenti rims, but I have two wheelsets built with Kinlin XR26T rims and they have proven very solid. Both wheelsets use Bitex hubs (24F/28R) and off-center rear rims. The set I use on my road bike has Sapim CX-Sprint spokes, radial in front and two-cross in back with brass nipples. The set I use on my gravel bike has Sapim race spokes front and rear, both laced two-cross with brass nipples. Both sets have proven very reliable under my 170-175 lbs. The gravel bike set has been raced on very rough courses with no issues. The brake tracks appear to be a mid-height and present no problems with Dura Ace 9000 or Avid Shorty brakes.
Greg |
#6
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I rode SL23 V1 for a while, [bought 8 for $400.00] love the machine brake track for some of the best braking performance I have ever experienced, and nice and medium wide. Me @ 200 lb, and 235 previously brakes get more work to do. This is probably Moot, but I have 2) 28h I' sell.
Unfortunately the rear in on the third rim from spoke bed cracks. This last one I think I got the trick. Still have 4 extras on the wall form the original 8. Once I put washers on the drive side rear this last one has been fine for 2 years. I wonder if the inner spoke bed is V shaped and without the washed the edges of the nipples exuded stresses that the washers abate, raising the nipple away form the bed, albeit postulation. None the less, 35+ lb less now and the 3x washers on the rear drive side, wheel is good finally. Front always been fine, went thru 2 rears from crack in 500 mile or less. Plus when you put on a new rim the spoke are already stress relieved. so no peaking the tightness well past max tension with my gorilla mitts. Anyway, it was not fun for a while, and Kirk P was no help what so ever. So for that I stopped buying anything with his name on it. But all my disc Pacenti builds are fine for years still. They also are an early tubeless that some tire are a bear to get on and off, but I speak of tire 5 years ago, all the tire today sans a few go on and off without levers. Some context, I have gorilla mitts. So without levers is relative. That all qualifies as a Yada to the 10th, Yada.
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This foot tastes terrible! |
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