The September Tour,

[velotel]

Turini, Tinde, Fauniera, Sampeyre, Finestre, Agnel, Allos, Champs, a list of cols that makes me quiver like a pointer in a field of pheasants. Stunning rides and yet a couple are all but unknown and for the rest, outside of riders from the region, it’s a rare cyclist who will ever enjoy their gifts. And here we are ready to roll ‘em, one after the other in one glorious week of riding. An extravagant potpourri of riding with something for everyone, including some optional outrageous dirt road riding for those with a hunger for more.

Day 1, arrival and pickup at the Nice airport followed by a shuttle to our hotel in Sospel. Maybe lunch at the hotel, then off through town onto the road to Col de Turini, done by the TdF three times long ago. Not so high at 1604 meters but with Sospel at 360 meters, the 1244 meter (4081 ft) vertical will make for a good jetlag emancipator.

A fine climb once Sospel and the surrounding villages are left behind, first in a deep gorge so thick with trees that it’s kind of hidden in walls of green. Pretty much all easy rolling for the first 12 K to the village of Moulinet, with one exception, a steep ramp through rock-walled switchbacks to a chapel perched on a cliff. From Moulinet to the col the effort level increases but nothing all that serious. The col itself is the junction of three roads and well known to anyone who follows rally racing. The col is also a favorite training ride for pros based out of the Nice / Monaco region.

There’s another version we might do, depending on how everyone is feeling, that makes for a nice loop, increasing the distance from around 50 K to 70 K and the vertical from 1260 to 1460 (4134 – 4790 ft). Easier climb plus there’s one section with a sweet series of rock-walled stackbacks.

Day 2, shuttle out of Sospel for the Col de Tende. Start off on the highway for some warm-up time until the entrance to the Tende tunnel where we swing onto a one-laner. From there to the col might be the most spectacular example of stackbacks you’ll ever see. 46 stackbacks and switchbacks in 600 vertical meters (1968 ft) and 7,4 K, average grade 8%. First half rustic pavement, second half dirt and rock, sometimes smooth, sometimes rocky, always with good riding lines. A short climb but impressive enough that you’ll be stopping to shoot pics to show friends what you did.

Long descent into Italy, 34 K and around 1300 vertical meters (4265 ft). The top 8 K will be all but carless as traffic is on the tunnel road so we can thoroughly enjoy ourselves racing down off the col until joining the regular road. How far down we continue will depend on traffic. I’m not fond of riding with italian drivers so maybe not so far. The van will come through the tunnel so anyone not keen for the dirt can go through the tunnel in the van then ride up the italian side of Tende, a thoroughly enjoyable ride. Tende is kind out of step with the rest of the tour but it gets us into Italy. And the stackbacks are something else.

Day 3, the adventure begins, Turini and Tende were an extended prologue getting us into the Piedmonte region. Today Colle Fauniera and for those who like dirt the Altopiano della Gardetta. The Altopiano is dirt and rock roads, relatively smooth enough that fatter normal road tires, like 28 mm tires, work fine with a bit of care. A full-on mountain bike would be massive overkill. In other words the Altopiano is fat-tire road bike terrain. One of the Alps’ most beautiful, remote high mountain rides, to call it unique is not unrealistic. Not riding it would be kind of a shame. 14,8 K of dirt with around 200 meters of climbing, a roller of a ride. Finally joins a paved road (rustic blacktop) for the plunge to Ponte Mamora.

The blacktop-only version is one of the great ones. Starts off with a big climb on narrow, twisting roads that much of the time are not much more than generous one-laners, and sometimes less, 22,.5 K and 1635 vertical (5364 ft) to Colle Valcavera, the start of the dirt road option. Colle Fauniera is another 2 K and 84 meters higher, 1719 vertical (5640 ft) of hard climbing from the start. After that we’ll cross two more cols, Vallonetto and Esischie, just high points along the way, before the long, snaking descent to Pont Mamora, Maybe we’ll end up in two groups doing different routes, one looking for the max and one looking for something a bit more relaxed. We’ll see.

There’s this low-key guy out of Geneva, Will, who does the most amazing rides of anyone I’ve ever read, and he loves high cols and dirt roads. He’s seemingly ridden everything! His site is cycling-challenge.com and between him and a french rider who does a lot of cool riding plus some other guy who writes in english and has been doing crazy adventure rides since the turn of the century, I find lots of info on roads and tracks that are new to me. Another great resource I use a lot are motorcyclist posts with videos of rides in the Alps, especially dirt road rides. For some good pictures of the Fauniera rides, here are two links : https://www.cycling-challenge.com/co...lle-dei-morti/ and https://www.cycling-challenge.com/co...ra-and-beyond/

Day 4, Colle di Sampeyre, another outrageous and little-known col, but done twice by the Giro, in 95 and 03, then apparently forgotten. And again there’s an excellent dirt road option that would automatically be the road to take going up if it were paved. Doable on 28mm road tires, but with a fat-tired road bike running 38s or bigger clearly the choice way up. The strictly paved version is a good climb up the south side from the village of Stropo, lots of 9% and steeper in the last third of the climb,.17,3 K with 1400 vertical (4593 ft), a solid challenge. Then it’s down the north side to Sampeyre on another steep road, 9% average. Surface a bit rough.

The gravel road option is another of Italy’s marvelous military roads. Up and along ridges that sort of form the spine of the hills Colle di Sampeyre crosses. The dirt’s around 20 K long, much of the time smooth and easy riding, some sections rough enough that a fat-tire road bike’s tires are much appreciated. Outside of the surface being dirt and rock, this is the easiest access to the col. We’ll decide which version to do when we’re there. Will’s site again has a plethora of photos of the Sampeyre roads : https://www.cycling-challenge.com/colle-di-sampeyre/ and https://www.cycling-challenge.com/co...a-dei-cannoni/.

Like Colle Fauniera, Colle di Sampeyre is in a remote area that’s probably as close to wilderness as we’re ever going to get on bikes in France and Italy. The entire region is pretty much off the beaten path and basically unknown, especially to cyclists outside the region. That’s one of the big reasons Piedmonte is my favorite region in Italy, everybody crosses it on their way to somewhere else in Italy. It’s not just the mountains that are so fantastic either. The foothills and vast plains at the base of the mountains are all about wine and fruit and farms and small roads, a cyclist’s paradise.

Day 5, this is a good one, following in the tracks of the Giro over Colle della Finestre.A huge climb, 1694 vertical meters (5557 ft), average grade 9,1% with no easy sections, the last 8 K on dirt. The climb to Fauniera has a bit more vertical than Finestre, with plenty of steepness, but still not as formidable as Finestre. Finestre is steep from the bottom to the top, not brutal steep, nothing that’s going to leave you weeping in pain, just good, honest, K after K steepness on one of the most beautiful roads I’ve ever ridden.

Kicks off with a two-hour shuttle. Longer than I’d like but given the time constraint of a one-week tour and all the rides I want to show you, can’t be helped. Once you’re on your bikes and in the climb, the shuttle will be forgotten. 46 switchbacks, one section of 21 stackbacks supported by beautifully laid rock walls, a sprawling forest of deciduous trees and conifers evolving into majestic melèze (larch in english, larice in italian, a tree that looks like a conifer but whose needles turn orange in the autumn and fall to the ground), and finally up out of the forest into a basin of meadows swept clean by avalanches. Fenestre in my experience climbs easier than the numbers would seem to indicate. Maybe because the setting is so tranquil and saturated with a soft silence, or maybe it’s the constant switchbacks that are so entertaining and a delight to look at. It’s only in the final basin when the steepness seems to fully declare itself, thoroughly aided by the dirt surface that can be loose from cars scrabbling for traction, definitely makes it harder than it would be on blacktop.

The col itself is a notch on narrow ridge with huge vertical off both sides. And big views. But what’s really cool is this fountain of spring water right there on the col! Fantastic place. Then it’s down, a ripping fast descent right from the col because for some reason the south side is paved to the col. Steep and fast until a long section of low angle spinning followed by more massive gravity accelerations to the valley floor. After that a long, spinning cruise down the valley to wherever the van is waiting to haul everyone to our hotel in the town of Saluzzo. So far this trip hasn’t been about towns at all. That changes here. A picturesque town you’re going to want to wander through.

Day 6, back to France via France’s second highest col, Agnel. Yes, Cima de la Bonette is the highest followed by the Iseran and Agnel, except la Bonette isn’t a col, just a summit with a road looping around it. The real col is Col de Restefond at 2680 meters. Thus Agnel second highest at 2744 meters. Third Giro col of the tour, never done by the TdF. Also a huge day, 22,4 K and 1464 meters (4803 ft) of climbing followed by 42 K and 1736 vertical meters (5700 ft) of descending. If we don’t have a headwind during the descent it’s going to be amazing. Will be anyway, just slower with a wind in our faces.

The italian side is the hard side; the last 10 K average 9,9%! That’s harder than any 10 K section on Finestre (then again Finestre is 18 K at 9,1%!), harder than any big climb in the french Alps with the closest Col du Granon with a 9,3% average over 11 K. But at least the last section onto the col is easy. The visuals all the way up are good and keep getting better and better the higher the altitude. Something to keep the mind off the effort.

Then down, fast for a long way then steadily easing off until we hit the gorge where we go left and start the run to the ride’s end in Guillestre. The finish in the gorge is a delight, road snaking across cliffs, flat or descending so little that might as well be flat, river crashing over rocks below. Then into the van for a shuttle over Col de Vars to our hotel in Barcelonnette. If anyone’s so inclined, the ride over Vars from Guillestre is nice, never hard, mostly a spinner of climb, 19 K and 1100 vertical. Then again Agnel might have thoroughly wasted the legs, especially after the preceeding days.

Day 7, last day, two cols to do, Allos and Champs, both done by the TdF, Allos 9 times since 1947 and Champs once. Excellent climbs, Allos rather classic with lots of sections with the road carved out of cliffs, Champs a curling, narrow strip of blacktop in a forest of melèze, finally rising out of the trees onto what in my eyes is an exceptionally beautiful col with these vast prairies of grasses and wildflowers draped over the slopes. Champs in french is fields. Neither one is all that long, Allos 17,5 K and 1108 vertical (3635 ft), Champs only 12 K and 842 vertical (2762 ft), nor are they steep, Allos 6,3% average and Champs 7% average. What they are is pure pleasure, riding a bike on these narrow, winding mountain roads surrounded by panoramas your eyes aren’t big enough for on surfaces that are rather smooth, especially Allos. Both also have thoroughly exhilarating descents, Allos a bit wilder as the upper section down to the ski town of Allos is pretty rough. The drop off Champs is laugh city, round, smooth curves begging you not to touch the brakes. A perfect end to what in so many respects was a bit of an insane tour. Also a somewhat relaxed end to the tour given all that we rode to this point. Still around 70 K with 1950 vertical meters (6400 ft), good numbers but at least this time nothing but easy to moderate grades.

Into the van for the shuttle to our hotel in Menton, my favorite city on the Med, and some swimming in the sea before calling it good with a fine dinner, probably with some very good wine to toast our good fortune and reminisce on all the places we just were. A crazy tour, from the rather civilized, rally-famous Col du Turini, that ridiculous rolling staircase up to Tende, the remote and wild Altopiano plateau and its wonderful dirt track, the old military road along the ridges to Sampeyre, the always sublime and fierce climb to Finestre and its plunge off the south side, the brutal grades and dream panoramas on the way to Agnel, wrapping it all up with Allos and Champs and their surprisingly graceful and relaxed climbs to the heights, a tour to remember.

Pricing per person 2225€; lodging, breakfasts, 3 dinners (hotels with demi-pension pricing, possibility of 1 or 2 more nights with demi-pension, to be negotiated, might affect the price, maybe not), airport pick-up and delivery. If rental bikes need to be picked up that can be done too, depending on from where.

A few totally miscellaneous pics.

[Peter B]

Brilliant--I'm in!

[velotel]

Details for anyone interested in the August and September tours, starting with how to make it happen.

Write me : hankbarlow at gmail

Tour slots are limited, logistics for small groups are easier.

Included in the tour price is airport pick-up and return, seven nights of lodging with breakfast each morning (at the moment each tour has 3 nights with dinners included in the prices, that may increase), pricing is double occupancy but obviously one to a room can be arranged.

One guide on all the rides (young and strong, not old and slow), second guide (the old and slow one) driving and riding when possible. The van won’t be following along behind to pick up stragglers but will be available if needed.

Rides in the August tour are loops or out-and-backs, in September most are point-to-point but sometimes with looping or out-and-back options. Flexibility is built-in so we can always shift things around if needed or desired, depending on wants. We’re there to have fun.

Not included are lunches and around half the dinners. Lunches because maybe people just want to haul something to eat along with them or maybe some spur of the moment stop will happen at some restaurant along the way, like at a refuge somewhere in the mountains. Dinners I prefer leaving to everyone because I have no idea how people eat, other than probably not like me. The exceptions to that are at hotels with demi-pension plans where alternatives are thin on the ground, or where the hotel’s restaurant is an excellent call anyway, which is often the case.

There’s also no masseur nor masseuse along for the tour. No mechanic either so best if you know your bike well. And where we’ll be most of the time no handy bike shops either.

Both tours are clearly groad oriented, or using the more common name gravel bike oriented, especially the August tour. The September tour is weighted towards fat-tired road bikes but can be ridden with normal road tires though as fat as 28mm is strongly recommended. Italian pavement is far from buff with cracks and holes and ragged repairs pretty much standard conditions, at least on the kind of small mountain roads we’ll be riding. My recommendation is running tubeless 35 mm to 40 mm tires.

Low gears are also recommended but that’s coming from someone who’s 74 years old and who now finds a 30/32 barely low enough on too many climbs, but still getting up ‘em. All of the rides include big climbs with grades in the high single-digits and sometimes ramps in the low double-digits. Believe me my objective was not finding the steepest, hardest climbs in the region for the tours; I was not an inquisitor in a previous life. But if you want to ride in the Alps, you’re going to have to ride steep grades. The only choice is how steep and whenever possible I always take the easier way, unless the hard way is just too gorgeous to pass up. The aesthetics of where we ride are always for me of utmost importance.

Okay, I guess that pretty much covers things.

[clyde the point]

I'm dying here reading this. I keep narrating excerpts to the wife as she's trying to study and there's a steady stream of airborne kitchen utensils heading my way.

One of these days I'll sign up....