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#1
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More tubeless questions....
Considering making the jump from latex tubes to tubeless....
1. I have HED Jet blacks that are tubeless compatible and have hooked rims. Do I need anything special to get the tire inflated? I thought I had read that you need a very quick burst of air to initially get them to seat? But is that moot with a hooked rim? 2. What is everyone's go to sealant? This is for triathlon, and I'm guessing I'd be using Conti GP5000's, either 25 or 28mm, but open to suggestions! Flat prevention is prob my priority, speed secondary but don't want something ridiculously slow... Thanks! |
#2
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Road tires typically need a blast of air to seat. I even had to do it with some 38s on a gravel wheelset. I have a Schwalbe air blaster that I pump up with my floor pump to 120+ psi, depending on the tire size. It won't put 120 psi in your tire, but it usually gives a good enough inrush of air to seat the tire. Use generous amounts of soapy water to lubricate the sidewalls. With the air blaster, remove the core so the air can flow freely. I typically seat my tires and let them sit inflated for 20-30 minutes before deflating, removing the core, and injecting sealant. I use Orange Seal, but Stans was just as good. Orange Seal was more available at the time.
For MTB tires, I typically seat them with a floor pump with the sealant already added. Again, I use a lot of soapy water. I have an old water bottle with dish soap and water. |
#3
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Changes every time, even on the same rim with the same tire. You need as much air as it takes. Having a compressor handy is pretty much a necessity, in my experience. It's honestly why I own one.
I don't do road tubeless; MTB have been much easier and can often seat with a track pump. For me, orange seal has been the go to for years. |
#4
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My first try, I seated the tires (front and rear) with my floor pump. I had no idea this was unusual. Until my second try. Ended up with an Airshot, basically a one-at-a-time compressor you charge with your floor pump. Works for me.
I use OrangeSeal, which ever version is cheaper. It also works for me. Has sealed several punctures on my road bike with 25s (same ones you're planning on using. Nice tires). Did not on my lower volume gravel tires, so I have to look sideways at anyone who insists that tubeless won't work with "high pressure" road tires. They are usually 1) running some silly pressure or 2) never tried it. http://www.airshotltd.com/airshot/ |
#5
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It comes down to the specific combination of tire and rim, and honestly the condition of each, as well. There's no set rule of thumb.
I like to do a dry run without sealant to get a feel for how well the tire is going to inflate and whether the beads will set. In my experience, the smaller the tire volume, the more air that is needed. The worst combinations of rim and tire I've come across were 2015-vintage Specialized Axis aluminum rims and any cyclocross tires. This combo required me to remove the valve core and use my air compressor with a nozzle that fits into the valve stem body (sans valve core), inflating the tire til the beads pop into place, and then quickly pulling the air nozzle, sealing the stem with my finger, and installing the valve core before the majority of the air escapes and the beads come off. Another trick for a stubborn combination of tire and rim-- install the tire with a tube, and then remove the tube carefully and leave one bead completely hooked. Then install your tubeless valve and continue. This is obviously best attempted BEFORE you've add your sealant. MTB stuff is magnitudes easier, likely doable without compressed air (I've not tried it, since I have a large compressor in the garage and a smaller one in the basement shop). I've been using Orange Seal for years with no complaints. |
#6
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Expect to buy a compressor or one of these pumpable air chamber deali-os for a quick blast.
I've never seated a tire with a simple floor pump and just can't imagine how it would work so I'm envious of those that have been successful. And that goes for road/CX/or MTB tires. Dang. |
#7
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#8
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Other than setting up ghetto tubeless in the early days of mountain bike tires, I’ve never used a compressor or specialized pumps.
Mount the tire, spray soapy water all around, then pump. Sometimes, you do need to remove the valve core to seat it. I’ve mounted countless tires this way. Mountain and road. |
#9
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#10
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Yes. I've used it quite a few times, and my only niggle so far is the valve got bent after just a few uses. Never broke, continued to work fine, not bad enough to even see if I can replace it like a normal valve core. Otherwise, does exactly what it is supposed to.
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#11
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Quote:
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#12
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If you use tubes
You just pump them up and change an occasional flat. Not which pump, which sealant, which valves, which compressor, which tire wheel combination, hookless or not, which Silca product removes old sealant and makes your tires smell good.
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Crust Malocchio, Turbo Creo Last edited by eddief; 06-20-2023 at 08:53 PM. |
#13
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Nothing perks up the day like the same old, whiny comments about how tubes are better. Thanks for that. Added a lot to the discussion.
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#14
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There's nothing more to add...
Yet we keep discussing it.
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Crust Malocchio, Turbo Creo |
#15
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No, you keep whining about it.
There is not ONE subject concerning bikes that we haven't talked to death. Everything to do with bikes is probably already contained in this site and everyone only needs to search for it. Should we all just stop posting? Or, if you don't want to read about the subject, you could ignore it. Nobody cares if tubeless is too hard for you to manage. |
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