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  #1  
Old 08-08-2005, 11:18 AM
Rapid Tourist Rapid Tourist is offline
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Flat on a Fixed Gear--so very uncool

So I was just getting into my morning commute this morning on the fixed gear, and I blew a flat on the rear wheel. Ouch. Of course, this wheel is hard to take on and off even under the best of circumstances, let alone without a work stand. So I walked it home and got to work pretty late.

Anyway, it got me thinking, fixers, when you blow a flat on the rear wheel, how do you replace the rear wheel by the side of the road??? Any tips on how to do this? I have a hard enough time even with a workstand at home.
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Old 08-08-2005, 11:30 AM
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fiamme red fiamme red is offline
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Why is repairing a flat on a fixed-gear so much harder than on a geared bike? The only thing that requires a bit more care is centering the wheel when you put it back in.
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2005, 11:48 AM
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znfdl znfdl is offline
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flats on a fixed gear

I agree with Red, that changing a flat on a fixed gear is about the same amount of work as road bike. The steps that I do include:

Slide wheel forwward
Take chain off of chain ring
Wheel comes right out
Change tube and then reverse procedure

What types of problems do you encounter?
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2005, 11:54 AM
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Dekonick Dekonick is offline
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Rapid;

Do you keep 2 wrenches with you to do this?

What kind of dropouts? Track style? 80's horizontal (harder to change) or vertical using a white industries hub?

on my horizontal drops (80's) I find it can be a little hard to get tension on the chain w/o a work stand or friend but it can be done. (notice only done to experiment; havent had a flat on my fixxie - actually havent been on it since my front brake disentegrated (ShimaNO brake)
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  #5  
Old 08-08-2005, 12:19 PM
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Orin Orin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekonick
Rapid;

Do you keep 2 wrenches with you to do this?

What kind of dropouts? Track style? 80's horizontal (harder to change) or vertical using a white industries hub?

on my horizontal drops (80's) I find it can be a little hard to get tension on the chain w/o a work stand or friend but it can be done. (notice only done to experiment; havent had a flat on my fixxie - actually havent been on it since my front brake disentegrated (ShimaNO brake)
My fixie is an old Schwinn Peloton with forward facing horizontal dropouts. I just carry a 6" adjustable wrench (I used to have a solid axle front wheel
with different size nuts...)

To tension the chain, I push the wheel backwards from the BB end of the chainstay while tightening the right hand side nut. Then I center the wheel (should be centered anyway if the dropout is straight) and tighten the left hand side nut. Then I spin the wheel slowly to check the chain tension. If the tension is way off, I'll try again.

Orin.
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2005, 12:31 PM
Rapid Tourist Rapid Tourist is offline
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I usually carry only one 15 mm wrench. This morning I was without. But, my real question is about centering the wheel. I find it hard to center the wheel in the dropouts with a workstand, and I have never tried to do this by the side of the road.

So do you all turn the bike upside down and just pull backwards on the wheel to center the wheel? Does that work ok? I didn't have a friend with me to hold onto the frame while I pulled.

Do you carry two wrenches? Does that make it easier to center the wheel? Thanks for the responses.
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Old 08-08-2005, 12:54 PM
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Kevan Kevan is offline
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Gosh!

Why do I have this mental imagine of this helmeted someone sitting on a sidewalk with feet up off the ground, perched carefully on each rear dropout of an upright and barely balanced bike, all the while pulling back firmly on the remounted rear wheel that’s been placed between their legs, and at the same time this person is reaching as far forward as possible, trying to secure both axle nuts with their wrench whilst keeping the wheel centered to boot.

I would hazard to guess that only dbrk and his Aimee could pull this one off. Okay, maybe Sandy too, he likes funky positions like these.

Seems to me the answer to your plight is, never leave home without your bikestand.
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  #8  
Old 08-08-2005, 01:00 PM
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rt,

I've changed a flat once on the side of the road on my fixie. Life might be easier for me with reverse track tips in back, but I don't know by how much.

I don't turn the bike upside down, I just pull the wheel back in the slots, looking at the chainstays by the bb and the wheel for center. I slowly tighten the nuts. I only carry one allen wrench with me (Phil hubs take allen wrenches) and I just go back and forth from side to side, tensioning and tightening while keeping an eye on the spacing.

In fact, I find it much, much, much harder to do in a workstand.
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Old 08-08-2005, 01:02 PM
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Smiley Smiley is offline
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If you carry a little 1 by 2 wood stick , you can wedge this piece between the Seat tube and the tire and get the wheel pushed back within the drop out with some decent leverage to tighten the chain . Otherwise its TRACK DROP OUTS and a new bike Tourista
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2005, 01:28 PM
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Too Tall Too Tall is offline
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R.T. - I learned from the trackies use their left hand to push the wheel backwards achieving chain tension and alignment all in on motion leaving the other hand to tighten axel nuts...as described below. Once you get the mojo working it's real fast and simple....like me

After fixing the tube...
1. Slip axels into dropouts...Slip chain over rear cog
2. put your shoulder under the saddle to brace and use your left hand between the seat tube and tire like a wedge to center the wheel and achieve some tension on the chain.
3. Use your fingers and your 15 wrench on the axel nuts.
4. Check your work and final tighten

For extra credit!!!

How do you know if your chain is too loose?
Hold your bike sideways and spin the cranks up pretty fast and see if the chain wants to come off or makes nasty popping sounds. If not the chain is not too loose. This is what my track coach taught me...it works.

If you have a mechanical failure during track racing the judges will impose a $$ fine....saw it happen this saturday at T town. Some guy had his chain jump off or his sporcket come loose...could not see and they fined him $20. Right ON

Last edited by Too Tall; 08-08-2005 at 01:41 PM. Reason: mo bettah 'splaination
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2005, 01:55 PM
KevinK KevinK is offline
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I only carry a single 15mm wrench. I flip the bike over and push the wheel back in the drops (horizontal road drops) with my left hand between the tire and seatstay, and snug-up the non-drive side nut with my right hand. This will usually make the wheel aim slightly right of center (remember, the bike is upside down), since the chain limits how far the drive side axle goes back. Then using the non-drive side chainstay as leverage, I use finger pressure with my right hand to push the front of the rear wheel towards the drive side chainstay. This will effectively tension the chain. While keeping it tensioned with my right hand, I use my left hand to tighten the drive-side nut. I may need to readjust the non-drive nut to center the wheel. Once I am satisfied with the centering and chain tension, I flip the bike onto its tires and alternate between lock-nuts until they are tight. I started riding fixed in the early 80's, and my rear wheel routine hasn't changed. It's alot easier to do than to describe.

And I agree, it is easier with the bike out of the stand. Unless the bike is upside-down in a stand, there is a tendency to have the axle rest on the lower flats of the dropouts, instead of against the upper flats where it belongs. Flipping the bike, or doing it with the tires on the ground keeps the axle firmly against the upper flats.

Kevin
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2005, 01:58 PM
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flydhest flydhest is offline
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what TT said about the shoulder. Reading his post made me realize that I do this and forgot aobut it.
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2005, 01:59 PM
Sandy Sandy is offline
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Thumbs up Rapid T

Simple Solution:

Ride with your domestique, Simple Solution Simple Serotta Sandy, and be sure that he is riding on a bike with your preferred geometry. If you have a flat, take his bike, and have him get it fixed before your next ride. Continue this process indefinitely......


Simpleton Sandy
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  #14  
Old 08-08-2005, 02:08 PM
coylifut coylifut is offline
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I use the method described by TT as well

taught to me by Christoph who's been riding the track since the birth of Methusalah. 90% of the time that I'm riding a fixe on the road, it's raining. For this reason, I use a 25mm Armadillo on the rear only. I've run em to the cords without getting flats. Paired with a nice riding front tire, it works very well for a fixe.
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  #15  
Old 08-08-2005, 02:47 PM
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Too Tall,

turns out that the $20 fine was for foul langauge, not for dropping his chain. Whether dropping his chain provided the impetus, don't know. Apparently the same guy dropped his mouth the week before and this week the law got serious.

keno, kub (speaking of which, there is discussion in NJ about putting black bears on the target list as they have been wandering into too many backyards and snacking, including on the occasional pet) reporter

keno
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