|
|
|
|
#1
12-27-2021, 10:23 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
PRO Turnix saddle (2021+)
Looks like the latest iteration has a few functional changes along with the styling changes, with some softer padding.
I know the hot new thing is to go after stub nosed saddles (Spesh Power, PRO Stealth, etc.), but I ride frames that are on the small end, and don't *think* I can get enough setback on the shorty saddles as I am already on the limit of my current saddle (Spesh Romin). Brief reading of the marketing material seems like this model would most closely match, the waved shaped works well for me partly because flat terrain is rare around me and I think the swept up rear helps provide support when the road angles up. Seems like the Turnix doesn't get any real chances though, despite how popular the Romin was. All chatter about the PRO saddles seems to revolve around the Stealth. Any experiences appreciated. Last edited by rice rocket; 12-27-2021 at 10:26 AM. 
|
|
#2
12-27-2021, 10:34 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
We measure saddle-to-BB set back based on the nose of the saddle for convenience but what we are really measuring is where our hips are relative to the BB. Of course measuring the location of your hips is hard but measuring from the nose of the saddle is easy so we use the nose of the saddle.
The issue is that out hips don't land on different style saddles the same so the traditional way of measuring doesn't serve us well. Think of it this way....if you took your usual saddle, set your setback just right, and then cut 20 mm off the nose of the saddle would that change your position? Your hips would still be right compared to the BB but the 'setback' would be different. This is what happens with a new style stubby saddle. You can't set the setback the same way....and you don't want to. You need to mount it and ride and see what feels right and set aside your old setback number that was based on a long-nosed saddle. I hope that makes sense. It can be hard to picture. dave
|
|
#3
12-27-2021, 10:51 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
This is what I was picturing in my head, there's a fixed amount of length needed (on the Romin, it's roughly 80mm) where the rails transition from the flat clamping section to the nose of the saddle. I won't know until I try due to differing shapes, but with a bunch lopped off the front, that transition will likely cut into my usable rail space because that transition section needs to exist? My current setback is attached. edit: Looking closer at the picture I just took, it looks like the rail attachment is about 15mm from the actual extreme end of the saddle, so perhaps not as dramatic of a change as I initially though (assuming the saddle rails are pushed as far forward as possible in the design of the stub nosed saddles). Last edited by rice rocket; 12-27-2021 at 10:56 AM.
|
|
#4
12-27-2021, 11:23 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I think the only way to know if a stubby saddle will work is to try one. I don't think there is a fool-proof way to measure two different saddle styles and have those numbers tell you where your sit bones will land on the saddle...and by extension where this will place your hips compared to the BB.
If you buy a stubby saddle you'll want to mount it in the middle of the adjustment range of the rails and try it. It will take you a little time to find "home" on the new saddle (where your sit bones want to be) and then it will take some experimentation to find where the saddle should be fore/aft to work best for you. You are in effect finding the hip-to-BB and then moving the saddle around so that it ends up in the right place under your anatomy. You will not be able to measure a stubby and mount it to your post in a specific spot and call it good. It will take some experimentation but it can be worth way more then the effort it takes. I will just add that this is true even when changing from one brand/model of traditional long nosed saddle to another. Measuring brand A set back and then expecting brand B to use the same setback seems like it would work, and you may get lucky, but it's not a true way to measure hip-to-BB setback....which in the end is what we are aiming for. dave P.S. - I switched from using traditional long Fizik saddles to a Shimano Stealth a few years back. I had trouble being fully comfortable and the idea of the short/wide saddle was interesting to me so I bought one. I now have one on every bike I own. For me it was a complete game changer.
|
|
#5
12-27-2021, 12:01 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have 1 Turnix and 2 Griffon Pro saddles. While I like all 3 of them, the most comfortable is the earlier model of Griffon. The other Griffon, while still very comfortable, the padding is considerably less cushiony. I really like the Turnix also. It is very comfortable with minimal padding, and is really light, actually all 3 are pretty light. I like the styling and shape of all of them, all narrow models.
I do not have pictures of the saddles, but the early model Griffon is black with blue accents to the rear, the newer one is black and white with a narrow red stripe around the upper edge, and the Turnix is black and gray with a bit of white mixed in. IMO, it is the nicest looking of the three. I often see the black, white, red Griffon and the Turnix available, but never the early model black/blue Griffon.
|
|
#7
12-27-2021, 01:57 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Dave what kind of saddle are you using?
I've been tempted to try out something with a cutout lately. For years been on Fizik Aliante, and prior to that, pretty much ran a Concor for many years with only a brief stop on a Turbo (which never quite felt right for me). No saddle discomfort at pretty much any mileage under 100, so am only looking to try something different for the sake of something different... Quote:
|
|
#8
12-27-2021, 03:38 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I started a product review thread some time back that got a lot of precipitation and you might get good info there. dave
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
