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  #1  
Old 07-17-2019, 06:25 AM
Kingfisher Kingfisher is offline
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Campy rear hub frame fit issue

I've had these Campy Record 11s wheels for a couple of years know built up by old potatoe laced to velocity rims. Absolutely bulletproof.
I've been riding them on a steel Zanc.
Yesterday I went to install them on recently acquired supersix evo with Di2 and rear wheel fits into dropout but it is way too tight....not enough of the axle nut sticking out to make it work correctly. Pics should explain situation.
Anyone tell me what is the allen head screws purpose on the non cassette side?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2019, 06:30 AM
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Vientomas Vientomas is offline
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The black collar with silver allen bolt? Bearing adjustment I believe.
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2019, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfisher View Post
I've had these Campy Record 11s wheels for a couple of years know built up by old potatoe laced to velocity rims. Absolutely bulletproof.
I've been riding them on a steel Zanc.
Yesterday I went to install them on recently acquired supersix evo with Di2 and rear wheel fits into dropout but it is way too tight....not enough of the axle nut sticking out to make it work correctly. Pics should explain situation.
Anyone tell me what is the allen head screws purpose on the non cassette side?
Thanks
Don't understand but that plate with wee allen is how you adjust these hubs..when on the bike, loosen a bit, turn plate a bit clockwise to tighten, tighten 2mm allen.

Is the smallest cog hitting the frame?
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  #4  
Old 07-17-2019, 08:38 AM
Dave Dave is offline
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Looks normal to me. The drive side nut protrudes beyond the lock ring, so it shouldn't rub the frame. If the small sprocket teeth actually rub the frame, that's a different matter.
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  #5  
Old 07-17-2019, 08:46 AM
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AngryScientist AngryScientist is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
Looks normal to me. The drive side nut protrudes beyond the lock ring, so it shouldn't rub the frame. If the small sprocket teeth actually rub the frame, that's a different matter.
i agree, where's the rub?
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2019, 10:02 AM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
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As noted, the photos look like a normal 11spd hub/cassette. If the small sprocket or chain rubs on the drive side dropout, that would seem to be an issue with the dropout shape.

Also as noted, the allen head screw is to loosen/tighten the bearing pre-load adjustment collar.
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  #7  
Old 07-17-2019, 10:02 AM
FlashUNC FlashUNC is offline
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Looks like every Campy hub I've seen of that generation.
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2019, 10:49 AM
Kingfisher Kingfisher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
Don't understand but that plate with wee allen is how you adjust these hubs..when on the bike, loosen a bit, turn plate a bit clockwise to tighten, tighten 2mm allen.

Is the smallest cog hitting the frame?
yep, smallest cog hitting the frame
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  #9  
Old 07-17-2019, 12:00 PM
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zmudshark zmudshark is offline
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Make sure the cassette spacers are in correct order.
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2019, 01:17 PM
tuscanyswe tuscanyswe is offline
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Is it the chain or the cog thats "hitting" the frame?
Sometimes a 12t will clear (if chain) but an 11t not.
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2019, 02:00 PM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Not familiar with the bike because depends a lot of the manufacturing year, some have this 2 sided drop out, other ones have a single sided RD hanger.

But I do not see why you couldnt put a 1mm washer in there tho. Just put one at the other side too so the rear wheel gets center between the stays,
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2019, 02:15 PM
duff_duffy duff_duffy is offline
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I’d try a different cassette and see if that fixes it (one with different tooth count on smallest co) as someone else mentioned. I had an American Classic hub do the same thing once - called up company and they new exactly what had happened - small washer was removed/lost sometime during maintenance but it still worked fine until I switched frames and it hit the frame. They sent new one and when put together correctly fixed it. The washer at end of axles and between frame worked for me as well but did not like losing any real estate on that part!
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  #13  
Old 07-17-2019, 02:20 PM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duff_duffy View Post
I’d try a different cassette and see if that fixes it (one with different tooth count on smallest co) as someone else mentioned. I had an American Classic hub do the same thing once - called up company and they new exactly what had happened - small washer was removed/lost sometime during maintenance but it still worked fine until I switched frames and it hit the frame. They sent new one and when put together correctly fixed it. The washer at end of axles and between frame worked for me as well but did not like losing any real estate on that part!
There are two problems with putting a washer between the locknut and the dropout: The serrated teeth on the locknut can no longer grip the dropout; and it is easy to lose the washer when the wheel is removed.

Both of these issues can be fixed by placing the washer under the locknut. Loosen the small set screw, unscrew and remove the locknut, insert washer on the axle, re-install locknut with correct bearing preload, and re-tighten the set screw.
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2019, 10:42 PM
nesteel nesteel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark McM View Post
There are two problems with putting a washer between the locknut and the dropout: The serrated teeth on the locknut can no longer grip the dropout; and it is easy to lose the washer when the wheel is removed.

Both of these issues can be fixed by placing the washer under the locknut. Loosen the small set screw, unscrew and remove the locknut, insert washer on the axle, re-install locknut with correct bearing preload, and re-tighten the set screw.
And then re-dish the wheel.
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  #15  
Old 07-18-2019, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfisher View Post
yep, smallest cog hitting the frame
It's really a frame issue, not rear hub issue. These hubs with even 12s cogsets work fine on many other frames.
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