Crossing the Final Frontier: Electronic Shifting.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by jamesdak

This is nothing but a myth to me in the last dozen years or so. Once a bike is setup with a mechanical groupset it just keeps working. Maintenance involves chains and brake pads. About the only time I have to do cables or housings are on used bikes that were abused instead of taken care of.

And for all the social posturing on this forum about the environment I can't believe anyone would consider using those nasty ol' environment killing batteries.

Reality, what a concept..think 'toddy' needs a new wrench. Sounds like something from the marketeers of the makers who have abandoned mechanical shifting('S' brands)..

Funny, I seem to remember sram's ad, 'no batteries required'..my how things change. The peanut galley has been predicting 'everything will be electronic' ever since Di2 was introduced..20 YEARS ago....

--->>>

[saab2000]

So a couple years ago I took the plunge on electronic shifting. It works. It's likely the way of the future with premium or semi-premium group sets but in my opinion it's not a huge leap forward. I routinely ride my mechanically shifted bikes and I never wish I had electronic shifting on them. I don't love the idea of the possibility of a glitch or dead battery or forgetting to charge.

The wired, internal setup was a mighty PITA and because I do all my own work I somehow screwed up the Di2 setup and bricked the whole kit and caboodle. Shimano warrantied the stuff and I had no idea that you weren't supposed to update using Shimano's app. Imagine that. First connection is supposed to be using their software, which can only be downloaded on a MS computer. Who knew?

The reason I'm being snarky is that there was no mention of this in any of the papers that I saw that came with the group. Additionally, there were no real instructions on how to set this up. So I installed the group on my bike, charged the battery, tried to install a firmware update via the app et voila! Dead group.

Bottom line, if you're not wise in the ways of Di2, have an experienced mechanic who is wise in the ways of Di2 set it up for you. I'm a pretty good bike wrench and I managed to screw this up, big time.

Once it got sorted out it works fine. The levers are supremely comfortable and the shifting is quick and precise and never problematic. The range is what the OP is looking for, with a 36 out back and a 48/31 up front. Huge range.

The best part of my GRX groupset is the lever shape. They make a mechanical version of this group and I maybe would opt into that were I to do this again. But I had this frame built specifically for Di2 so mechanical isn't something I can retrofit. The brakes are exceptional.

My next gravel group is likely to be Campagnolo Ekar 1x13, but that has to go on another frame as this one is electric only.

Prost!

[Dave]

Originally Posted by XXtwindad

This is where it gets complicated. So, basically, if I want the wider cassette (which I definitely do with this frame), I basically have to use the stock 30/43 SRAM crank? This would be a comfort/climbing bike, but I’d still be a little wary of losing so much top speed, even with a 10t in front. I was really hoping to use a Praxis 33/48 up front.

I've used Campy 48/32 and shimano grx 48/31 and 46/30 cranks, with the standard RD and 10-36 cassettes. No problem if you know what you're doing. If you have the choice, get the 36T capacity RD. That RD is mounted a little further back to clear the 36T sprocket but the wrap capacity is the same as the standard RD. If the standard RD is used, the B gap must be set at 3mm instead of 5mm. Sram provides a plastic tool to measure the gap. The 36T RD also requires more chain length than the 33T RD.

The axs drivetrain is NOT finicky to set up. The FD will shift a 48/31 with no chain drops. The most common mistake is adjusting the marks on the FD cage to be parallel with the big chain ring, as directed, but failing to notice that the FD rotated slightly out of alignment when the clamp bolt was fully tightened. I carefully measure the gap between the crank arm and cage, before and after tightening. With a chorus 48/32 crank there's only about 3mm of clearance, so a small change will have the arm hitting the cage.

A 48/10 is the same as a 53/11 top gear.

The wide 43/30 crank has a wider chainline for gravel bike tire clearance. It requires the wide FD. The 10-36 cassette has nothing to do with the wide crank and FD. The 36T RD is not related to wide either.

[eddief]

He said "The best part of my GRX groupset is the lever shape. They make a mechanical version of this group and I maybe would opt into that were I to do this again. But I had this frame built specifically for Di2 so mechanical isn't something I can retrofit. The brakes are exceptional."

I honestly appreciate your point of view about GRX levers...but for myself found those levers to be really uncomfortable. The big bump on the top constricted my hands on the hoods. And sometimes I like to ride with my hands over the bumps and could not do that with GRX. I took them off my Turbo Creo and replaced them with Ultegra. I ride only pavement and know that GRX is meant for gravel.

[sg8357]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Funny, I seem to remember sram's ad, 'no batteries required'..my how things change. The peanut galley has been predicting 'everything will be electronic' ever since Di2 was introduced..20 YEARS ago....

--->>>

You can make rear shifting electronic for anything with this gadget.
The rear cog count and cog spacing are programmable, so 5 speed
speed Suntour electronic is doable.

https://archercomponents.com/

[icepick_trotsky]

Get it. Try it.

I guarantee you'll have no problem reselling it if you decide you don't like it.

[NHAero]

Anyone here tried this yet?

Originally Posted by sg8357

You can make rear shifting electronic for anything with this gadget.
The rear cog count and cog spacing are programmable, so 5 speed
speed Suntour electronic is doable.

https://archercomponents.com/

[NHAero]

I'm curious if electronic shifting (Di2 specifically) can solve the dreaded 3rd cog chain lifting issue on the Ultegra HG800 11s 11-34 cassette?

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?p=2938856

[saab2000]

Originally Posted by eddief

He said "The best part of my GRX groupset is the lever shape. They make a mechanical version of this group and I maybe would opt into that were I to do this again. But I had this frame built specifically for Di2 so mechanical isn't something I can retrofit. The brakes are exceptional."

I honestly appreciate your point of view about GRX levers...but for myself found those levers to be really uncomfortable. The big bump on the top constricted my hands on the hoods. And sometimes I like to ride with my hands over the bumps and could not do that with GRX. I took them off my Turbo Creo and replaced them with Ultegra. I ride only pavement and know that GRX is meant for gravel.

That’s interesting!

Levers, like everything else we touch on the bike - bars, saddle, shoes and pedals, tape, etc. is highly personal and subjective. Thankfully there are options and the 11-speed Di2 is pretty interchangeable I believe.

I like my levers. Just did a race and at the end of the hard 2 hours I had to admit the groupset worked flawlessly and my hands never came into consideration. They got numb occasionally but I think they would have with any lever.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I'm curious if electronic shifting (Di2 specifically) can solve the dreaded 3rd cog chain lifting issue on the Ultegra HG800 11s 11-34 cassette?

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?p=2938856

I don't see how it can. The "3rd cog" problem seems like a problem with the cassette, not the derailleur/shifter. To my knowledge, Di2 doesn't allow you to microadjust individual sprocket positions. However, the Archer Components does allow individual sprocket adjustment, so maybe it could help with the "3rd cog" problem.

[NHAero]

I think that every one of these cassettes I use (currently on the Litespeed, Strong, and Firefly - there must be a gravitational attraction between titanium and this cassette, none of my steel or carbon bikes use it!) has had this issue. I have found that careful cable tension adjustment can make it go away, and then it usually returns. Since electronic doesn't have a cable stretch issue (or even a thermal expansion/contraction component?) I thought perhaps it might be better.

Originally Posted by Mark McM

I don't see how it can. The "3rd cog" problem seems like a problem with the cassette, not the derailleur/shifter. To my knowledge, Di2 doesn't allow you to microadjust individual sprocket positions. However, the Archer Components does allow individual sprocket adjustment, so maybe it could help with the "3rd cog" problem.

[prototoast]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I think that every one of these cassettes I use (currently on the Litespeed, Strong, and Firefly - there must be a gravitational attraction between titanium and this cassette, none of my steel or carbon bikes use it!) has had this issue. I have found that careful cable tension adjustment can make it go away, and then it usually returns. Since electronic doesn't have a cable stretch issue (or even a thermal expansion/contraction component?) I thought perhaps it might be better.

This is interesting. I hadn't read about this problem before. I have one of those cassettes on a Di2 bike. I always noticed it was really noisy in the third cog no matter how much I seemed to adjust things, and just chalked it up to a fluke. That being said, with Di2, I've never had it actually jump or skip--just noise.

[XXtwindad]

Originally Posted by Dave

I've used Campy 48/32 and shimano grx 48/31 and 46/30 cranks, with the standard RD and 10-36 cassettes. No problem if you know what you're doing. If you have the choice, get the 36T capacity RD. That RD is mounted a little further back to clear the 36T sprocket but the wrap capacity is the same as the standard RD. If the standard RD is used, the B gap must be set at 3mm instead of 5mm. Sram provides a plastic tool to measure the gap. The 36T RD also requires more chain length than the 33T RD.

The axs drivetrain is NOT finicky to set up. The FD will shift a 48/31 with no chain drops. The most common mistake is adjusting the marks on the FD cage to be parallel with the big chain ring, as directed, but failing to notice that the FD rotated slightly out of alignment when the clamp bolt was fully tightened. I carefully measure the gap between the crank arm and cage, before and after tightening. With a chorus 48/32 crank there's only about 3mm of clearance, so a small change will have the arm hitting the cage.

A 48/10 is the same as a 53/11 top gear.

The wide 43/30 crank has a wider chainline for gravel bike tire clearance. It requires the wide FD. The 10-36 cassette has nothing to do with the wide crank and FD. The 36T RD is not related to wide either.

Thanks for your feedback, Dave. Much appreciated. To be honest, though, I don’t understand all of it. The bb shell of the bike I’m getting is 68mm wide and is British threaded. It’s a mid-reach rim brake bike.

So, I will be getting this crankset: SRAM Force AXS Wide Crankset - 175mm 12-Speed 43/30t 94 BCD DUB Spindle
This cassette: SRAMForce XG-1270 12-Speed Cassette (in a 10-36t)
and this derailleur: SRAM Force eTap AXS Rear Derailleur - 12-Speed, Short Cage, Black, D1

Is that correct? Also, can anyone inform me what the 10t is equivalent to with a 43/30 up front? Roughly 46/11? Thanks.

[prototoast]

Originally Posted by XXtwindad

Thanks for your feedback, Dave. Much appreciated. To be honest, though, I don’t understand all of it. The bb shell of the bike I’m getting is 68mm wide and is British threaded. It’s a mid-reach rim brake bike.

So, I will be getting this crankset: SRAM Force AXS Wide Crankset - 175mm 12-Speed 43/30t 94 BCD DUB Spindle
This cassette: SRAMForce XG-1270 12-Speed Cassette (in a 10-36t)
and this derailleur: SRAM Force eTap AXS Rear Derailleur - 12-Speed, Short Cage, Black, D1

Is that correct? Also, can anyone inform me what the 10t is equivalent to with a 43/30 up front? Roughly 46/11? Thanks.

Get the medium cage rear derailleur and the WIDE front derailleur.

43/10*11=47.3

[XXtwindad]

Originally Posted by prototoast

Get the medium cage rear derailleur and the WIDE front derailleur.

43/10*11=47.3

Perfect. Thanks, Dan.