How low can you go? Quest for the magic climbing gear

[mhespenheide]

Originally Posted by Louis

Beyond what the gear ratio math says, eventually you get to the point where you're going so slowly that it's hard to keep the bike upright. The "how slow can you go?" issue is determined by some combination of rider skill and bike handling characteristics.

I was going to say the same. Below 1X1 (34-34 for me), I have to pay very close attention to my steering while I'm also putting a lot of effort into the climb itself. Maybe I need a different bike or better handling skills...

[Ken Robb]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

Similarly low. Most of my road bikes have either 46/30 or 48/32 in the front with either 11-32 or 11-34 in the back. Just a hair lower than 1:1 is usually enough for most of what I do.

After that, I utilize my "2 foot" gear.

I am also like this. When I get much below 30 ring and 32 cog I can't spin it fast enough uphill to have enough forward speed to keep the bike stable.

[Dave]

A 30/36 low gear works for me, down into the 4-5mph range.

[5oakterrace]

I do Mt. Washington with a sram cassette - 36, 32, 28 and 24 are the gears I use. To get easiest enough pedaling I put a 24 in front. 24/36 is the bail out and means faster pedaling to stay upright. I aim for 24/32, and delighted when strong enough for 24/28;and lately have been in the 1/1 ratio at 24/24. When I put the 24 in front the bike is "dedicated" for Ascutney (also 12 percent) or steep repeats. Useless bike for any other riding. Kind of frustrating but I do not think I am the only one with such a "dedicated" climbing bike.

I think shorter steeper climbs are managable with a 30 in front as long as you have that bigger rear 36 gear. I think sram is the only company that makes one in 10 speed. At least it was when I did this set up 6 years ago.

I am 67, heavier so... That is the best I can manage. My goal is to see if I can finish. That window is closing - maybe one or two years left.

[sg8357]

On the late Atlantis, a TA Zephyr 46/34/22 and a 12-32 on tour,
12-23 and skinny tires in go fast mode.

Ahhh, the good old days, when you get a cassette that started
at 12.

[tellyho]

I just put together an experimental 46/26 x 11-28 on 650b with 175 LX cranks (can we say crank strike?) as a thought experiment. It works remarkably well, and I think I can tune out the overshift on the 46. 26x28 with small wheels and long crankarms gives me more than enough granny, especially on a sub 20# 853 bike. Works remarkably well, might be my D2R2 bike this year.

[Wunder]

Originally Posted by 5oakterrace

I think shorter steeper climbs are managable with a 30 in front as long as you have that bigger rear 36 gear. I think sram is the only company that makes one in 10 speed. At least it was when I did this set up 6 years ago.

Shimano XT 10 speed is available in an 11-36 cassette. I used that with a 46/30 Sugino crankset, SRAM Rival shifters, GX mountain bike rear derailleur for D2R2. I've never gone lower on a road or gravel bike. Usually happy with a 36/30 or 34/30 on the road even in the NC mountains.

[rccardr]

‘Gonna be some climbing today’ bike: 34/34
‘Gonna be some steep climbing today’ bike: 28/34
‘****’s gonna get real while we’re climbing today’ bike: 24/34

More than that, I walk.

[tv_vt]

Slight thread drift, but related to low gears: would a 32t low chainring be noticeably different from a 34t low chainring, with a 34t cassette sprocket?

Put another way, would a 25.4 inch low gear be noticeably different from a 27.0 inch low gear?

This would be used for gaps and cols, IOW long climbs...

Thanks.

[Peter P.]

NOBODY goes low anymore!

They go e-bike or they go home!

[5oakterrace]

Originally Posted by tv_vt

Slight thread drift, but related to low gears: would a 32t low chainring be noticeably different from a 34t low chainring, with a 34t cassette sprocket?

Put another way, would a 25.4 inch low gear be noticeably different from a 27.0 inch low gear?

This would be used for gaps and cols, IOW long climbs...

Thanks.

I am not a "gearing" expert so others might comment with greater wisdom. My take is that on steep - long - climbs with the emphasis on long (Ascutney is 3.7 miles) the issue is trade off between leg strength and cadence. The easier gear means you can maintain higher cadence which is easier on the legs, but jacks up heart rate. If you are more inclined to be a grinder, as I am, then with good leg strength you can do fine without the easier gear. All depends on you, steepness and length of climb. I think it is near impossible to provide decent counsel given those very subjective variables.

[axel23]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

NOBODY goes low anymore!

They go e-bike or they go home!

Tell that to Primož Roglič.

[NeauDL]

30-39-52 front, 11-36 rear on coupled Calfee travel bike. 34-50 front, 11-42 rear on Domane. At 73, I can stay upright on a sustained seated climb at 3.5 mph!

[Baron Blubba]

36-30 on my road bike. Shimano.
40-36 on my allroad (pavement, dirt, bitta gravel) bike. Ekar.
38-42 on my gravel bike. Ekar.

I live in an area where it’s common for 50 miles of riding to net 6000 feet of gain, but the max gradient on road is usually sub-15% and typically between 6-9% on long climbs.
On gravel there are some loose dirt and washboardy roads less travelled with extended 20% sections, and I use every last bit of that 38-42 on those.

[benb]

My impression is if you stick a 32t ring on a 50/34 in place of the 34 you're probably going to make the shifting worse.

I don't know, maybe one of the electronic derailleurs can handle it well but it seems like larger gaps require redesign of the geometry of the derailleur.