Chain lubes for the ADHD generation

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by fiamme red

No one here uses Sheldon Brown's method?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Never gets old...

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Ken Robb

Does WD-40 make a lube or do you just use regular WD-40 as a lube?

WD-40 makes a range of true lubricants. WD-40 is a solvent.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Rayne_in_Spokes

Don't be a dick. I know how to do chain lube just fine. I'm checking if the more modern lubes do a better job at the low maintenance thing

POY. Post of Yesterday...

[eippo1]

As someone that used to moonlight in a shop and was known for accepting handouts, I have a load of different lubes but keep coming back to the Progold stuff.

I like how well it works for cleaning off the chain in between actual washings by just using some extra and then running the chain through a shop towel in my hand before dripping again more sparingly. I have some of the Silca stuff to try too, but haven't gotten around to it.

Also have ADHD that was diagnosed much later in life and man it was such a difference once I started getting proper treatment. My wife really was up in arms with all my piled up projects that were either barely started, partway done and abandoned, or just a pile of parts -- and it was bikes, audio, car stuff etc. Now I still have plenty of crap, but can work through it a lot better these days, though, the current med shortage is annoying.

[Charles M]

Originally Posted by deluz

This looks intriguing, do you have to strip the chain before using or can you apply over existing lube?

No, The new Stripper is for wax prep (even the drip on wax, which is good, but needs cleaning and prep to work at it's best).

The Synergetic just needs a basic cleaning every once in a while before reapplication... It's simple stuff, lasts and is an exceptionally good bicycle product.

NFS was my old fave (and Silca were a fan as well) - Synergetic is better.

[Seramount]

I gave up obsessing over a $35 wear item decades ago.

all I do now is throw a new chain on, wipe with a rag, and ride it until it's noisy.

at that point, one drop of Chain-L per link, let sit overnite, wipe with rag, then ride ~750 miles before re-lubing. usually wipe with a rag after most rides, but sometimes forget.

chains last 8-10K miles, cassettes last 35-50K miles, have never replaced a chain ring.

degreasing, waxing is srsly not for me. but, I ride in dry conditions so won't say my method works in the wet soggy stuff.

[windsurfer]

Which is the Adhd generation? Curious because I was prescribed Ritalin like 60 years ago...

[azrider]

NFS fo life !!!

caveat: it stinks a little

[Rabaja]

Originally Posted by steelbikerider

I would apply Rock n Roll gold weekly and run the chain through a rag until until the black greasy stuff is gone. Replace chain every 3000 miles and clean the cassette. Replace cassette every 3 chains.

This is exactly what I do. But my cassette lasts 30k miles this way.

[wooger]

Silca Synergetic is fine, but it is just another chain oil. Lighter than most, stays clean better than many, but if you ride off-road or in wet conditions your chain is still filthy inside and out pretty quickly, and will still need a full degrease to get it back to clean.

It works well in the dry that's for sure.



With wax you skip needing to degrease everything ever again which is something massive. If they'd make pre-waxed or even just grease free chains available to buy new for a more reasonable price, waxing (of some sort) would be an easier sell for many.

TLDR There's no magic new solution that's vastly better than what's come before.

Anyone recommending ROck n ROll gold: I tried it for a while both normal and holy cow extreme stuff. Neither last well at all, my chain was squeaky again within 50 miles riding in the dry, which seems pretty much awful.

[buddybikes]

Boeing T-9, spray/wipe down, let sit overnight. Clean once in a while. Use extra money on good seafood

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by steveandbarb1

Boeing T-9, spray/wipe down, let sit overnight. Clean once in a while. Use extra money on good seafood

Boeshield, right? I use that inside brake and der housing, der and shifter pivots, thin so it 'travels'. Have used it on a chain..works just fine.

[Ralph]

I generally just use whatever petroleum product I have around. It all seems to work about the same. But I don't ride in wet or dirt, and local trails and roads not sandy. I'm not about to go to the effort to strip off the best lube the chain will ever see when I buy one new just to gain some theoretical advantage that a pro might utilize. That being said...I admit chain maintenance not important to me. I put a few drops of something around the chain and ride....apply a few more drops about every other ride. Run it thru a rag soaked in WD 40 once in a while. When chain and pulleys get dirty, replace the chain and clean the pulleys. However....I ride in close to ideal conditions.

[ariw]

Another vote for the Silca Synergetic, I have been just taking the chain off and putting it in a steel bento box type thing that seals up well with mineral spirits. Shake a bunch, leave it to soak for a few, shake a few times again and when I pull it out, wipe it very well and give a few minutes for an air-dry before reinstallation and lube.

-Ari

[Deanhorsfall]

Hey Zella, I think you might like the NFS green lube. I haven't used this formula but the regular NFS works well in the Winter on the West coast. The important part is not using too much. If you put too much it will make a mess of your drivetrain. I usually just put a quick bead on the chain, then use a cloth to wipe off the chain. What I mean too when I say "bead" is the lube doesn't drip out like Tri flow. It comes out of the bottle like balsamic syrup.