#91
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Quote:
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#92
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yup. Cold wax, turn it on, drop the chain in, walk away. It s easier than preheating the pot and then putting the chain in for 10 minutes or so, that requires attention. This way, you just throw it in and go about whatever else floats the boat.
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#93
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Ok. I had seen the Molten speedwax directions. Ie. make sure temp of melted wax is 200 degrees and swirl chain for 45 seconds.
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#94
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Sooo, I’ve tried- I’ve used the recommended process for new chains, I’ve tried Black Diamond hot wax and Silca hot wax with the Super secret stuff in between pot drops. I get maybe 100 miles out of a chain with Silca, 200 with BD, and the top off on the Silcas . MTB, 1 ride. I’m going back to lube but I will be removing chains to clean in UFO degreaser every 3-500 miles from now on, no more messing around degreasing chains on the bike- that’s my lesson learned . Sorry fellas, I’m just not seeing the benefits, and yes, I can pull a rear wheel on a lubed chain bike and live to tell about it! Good luck to everyone no matter their lube preferences 🤣
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#95
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Quote:
Pre heating is good for wasting electricity (I don't pre boil my pasta water either though ). |
#96
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I'm sure the Pro teams show up with enough chains all ready to go to last the entire tour. These have been de-greased, waxed, and put in bags marked with # of links all ready to go for a 3 week tour. They probably bring 6/bike plus spares. They are likely not doing this on the spot unless they have to- and even then, it doesn't require any babysitting. They can do it while they are watching the race streaming.
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#97
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Quote:
soggy pasta? |
#98
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We have a couple of teams taking 50+ waxed chains to the TdF.
By the end of this month we will have hot waxed/race prepped over 800 chains for ProTour this season, and we are not a lube sponsor for any of them. It makes my day when Ollie at GCN does his waxed chain checks at the big races.. very few teams are running old school lubes, though all the sponsors in this category are old school lube companies. |
#99
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I bought the Super Secret Wax Starter Pack to use on my road and gravel bikes.
1. I washed both bikes and used a Park chain cleaner with Park degreaser. I wiped the chain down and although the chain was clean looking, there was still some evidence of dirt on the rag. Not much - basically like you'd always have using this process. It was getting dark so I decided to continue the following day. 2. After 24 hours, i did the Chain Stripper process *exactly* as the instructions state. The chain was sparkling clean by normal standards, but, again, there was a hint of dirt/grime when the chain was wiped down with a clean rag. 3. I waited another 24 hours to make sure the chains were completely dry and applied the wax *exactly* as the instructions state. These pictures were taken the day after waxing and without having been ridden. I'm not sure what to think. Is this normal? Was there still too much contamination on the chains? Should I wipe this down to remove as much of the excess as possible or let it flake off while riding? |
#100
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Josh why no tubes
What happened to the latex tubes, from a fan.
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#101
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#102
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@legendrider
I see a lot of lube sitting where it does no good since it didn't penetrate. My pennies per ounce has more carrier so at least it penetrates completely. If not it means that the chain is too cold. If my lube starts freezing up before penetrating, I get out the heat gun. My shop is too cool, except for the hottest summer days in Colorado, so I preheat my chains first. |
#103
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Can anyone locate the MSDS for this magical elixir?
If so, it should answer lots of questions. |
#104
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Has anyone tried it yet that can report back results?
I ordered a bottle this week so hopefully should be able test it out next week. |
#105
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Mine is in the mail still...
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