#31
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Not for nuthin’...but why the internal treatment for stainless? I mean, I thought that was the whole idea of stainless. Not to worry about corrosion? |
#32
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So, what is the easiest to use while remaining effective?
I've used Frame Saver and that is some nasty stuff, although I'm prepared to use it again.
For those who have used multiple rust inhibitors, is there one that requires less work (removal of parts and easier clean-up)? Thanks in advance for your reply. Cheers.
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"I ride, therefore I think." |
#33
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If you own firearms or have a gun store nearby, there are some great rust inhibiting sprays coming out of that industry too.
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#34
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Tim |
#35
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44 Bikes internally treats his frames. I checked and he did.
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***IG: mttamgrams*** |
#36
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Poof!!! Get the marshmallows. |
#37
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Most high end frame builders I know will treat the insides of their steel frames prior to delivery.
As for the need? I lived in Austin, Texas for ten years and rode daily. I ate through more steel frames during that time. I later lived nineteen years in Seattle and never had the slightest problem with steel frames. Blame it on perspiration, perhaps, but you never know when steel is going to rust. For $14 for a bottle of FrameSaver you don't need much justification. It's known to work and lasts until there are only cockroaches to ride bikes. For the same reason, I don't really recommend experimenting with other products like FluidFilm, Boeshield, linseed oil, and so on. FrameSaver has some heavy waxes dissolved in it that last longer in the lifetime of a steel frame, plus the consistency is adjusted so it flows nicely in the narrow tubes of a frame. In comparison, spraying Boeshield can have problems getting 100% coverage from end to end in a tube -- you can get a spray pattern but you really want total, 100% coverage. Linseed oil can drain well enough that a much thinner coat is left on the tubes after spraying, plus linseed oil can grow microorganisms. The quality of linseed oil also varies quite a bit, though I couldn't tell you what makes a better linseed oil for coating the inside of a frame. One point to add to the many good ones above: Warm up the frame, as warm as you can handle if possible. Then spray the coating. That way the coating will become more fluid when hitting the metal, rather than hardening up quickly on cold metal. This gives a better coat and better coverage overall. |
#38
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You can also use T-9
SPP |
#39
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Even stainless bicycle tubes are subject to oxidation...………………..
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chasing waddy |
#40
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#41
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The stainless used in bike frames is not the same alloy that is used in something like common flatware. Stainless bike tubing can, under the right conditions, develop surface corrosion.....and if outright abused can see structural corrosion. It's extremely rare to see structural issues (I've never seen it in 'real life') but it's possible so I treat the tubes the same way I do steel tubing. It cost only a few bucks and takes little time so why not? I consider internal treatment to be part of the building process and it's not "done" until it's been done. I should hope that all builders feel the same way but think this might be naive on my part. dave Last edited by David Kirk; 02-02-2019 at 08:19 AM. |
#42
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I think some kosher salt and pepper will do the job just fine.
Jokes aside, I was told to spray WD40 on the inside and roll it around until it reaches every corner of your frame. Also don't cover drain holes with tape etc. |
#43
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Dave Anderson sent out my stainless steel frame treated inside. And I sent it back to him last winter, because of some surface corrosion after 5 years here on Martha's Vineyard. He painted all the main tubes so I didn't have to deal with periodic maintenance on the tubes. I noticed that the corrosion happened only near the lugs (which I suspect are a different alloy - no corrosion) so I hypothesize that heating the tubing alters its corrosion resistance.
I actually felt that the added painted surface made the bike look even better. I've Frame-Savered my Bob Jackson even though the first 30 years I had it it was untreated. I also treated my wife's Casseroll when I built it up. Now I'm wondering if I treated my Nagasawa when I got it back from the repainting. |
#44
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Depends on where you live, I've done that to my steel bikes...BUT, I rode those mostly in So California, however I still ride a steel touring bike when touring, and a steel road bike for commuting in Indiana where it does and has rained on me and still I haven't treated the frames and there is no rust that I could see inside either frame.
As a precaution I have always, even in Calif, put a thin layer of automotive grease on the seat tube and seat post to prevent water from seeping down inside, I also put grease on the bottle cage bolts so water can't seep through that area either; and I also used Lizard Skins headset seal which keeps water from going down inside the fork. I use to own a Mercian that the Mercian folk applied Frame Savor to that frame but I never rode it in the rain anyways. Using a frame substance to prevent rust is a personal choice, I'm not going to discourage it that's for sure, but all my steel bikes are just mid level bikes so I'm not overly concerned about getting too in depth with trying to stop rust completely, but what I've done so far seems to have worked. |
#45
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Serotta started doing it around '96.
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