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  #61  
Old 02-09-2019, 02:45 PM
froze froze is offline
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Originally Posted by MURDERF4CE View Post
It's so dry where i live in don't think this is necessary. Might do it just to be safe
I lived in S Calif for 51 years, none of bikes ever got rust either on the inside or the outside, and none were treated. There was one exception however; I had a Schwinn Traveler I bought new to be my beater bike, I commuted to school and to work on it, but because I lived along the ocean for about 35 years I used that bike to ride on the wet sand which meant the bike got lots of salt water all over it from the surf as well being kicked up from the tires. After I rode it along the beach I would take it home and rinse it off but I did nothing to the inside of the frame of course, I rode that bike for 6 years while in college, after college I stored it. The aluminium components on the bike began to corrode about 3 years after I bought it, anyway about 13 years ago before we moved to Indiana I took crank and BB (that was a pain due to corrosion) off the bike to see what was going on in the BB area and there was significant corrosion and rust inside so I junked the bike. But keep in mind, that bike was abused by salt water a lot and quite frankly I don't think any frame saver could have prevented that sort of abuse.

All my other bikes, including the one I rode almost every day, even on the rare occasion it rained, I bought in 84 and it has no rust or corrosion whatsoever inside or outside. Dry climate means no rust, so I don't think you need to rust treat your bike unless you need the extra piece of mind then it's worth it but otherwise it's not worth it. Now I did put just a little automotive grease on the inside of the seat tube and on the seat post to keep wate from going down the seat post into the frame, andI put a Lizard Skin headset seal to keep water out of the fork, but those are the only precautions I took, but I doubt doing that was necessary, but it was for my peace of mind.
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  #62  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:01 PM
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tsarpepe tsarpepe is offline
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The average time for which people on this forum keep a bike is probably 3 years, but we're pampering them as if we'll have them at least 300 years.
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  #63  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:04 PM
54ny77 54ny77 is offline
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39T brings that average down a little.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsarpepe View Post
The average time for which people on this forum keep a bike is probably 3 years...
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  #64  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:14 PM
weaponsgrade weaponsgrade is offline
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This is a pretty interesting test of rust-inhibitors:

https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/an...t-1073581.html

I'll have to give Fluid Film a try. Personally, I've treated all my steel bikes with either Frame Saver or LPS. After every ride, I'll at least wipe down the top tube. If I happen to get caught in the rain, I'll pull out the seatpost. Every now and then, I'll wipe the entire bike down with Pledge.
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  #65  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:19 PM
froze froze is offline
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Originally Posted by tsarpepe View Post
The average time for which people on this forum keep a bike is probably 3 years, but we're pampering them as if we'll have them at least 300 years.
3 years? My god that seems absurdly low! Why is that?

The bike I bought in 1984 that I still have I trained and raced on that bike for 10 years and rode it another 19 years after that, it was my main bike all those years, it has about 160,000 miles on it, I could jump on that bike today and ride it. I have other older bikes too; but now my main bike is a 2013 Lynskey Peloton that I bought in 2013, I will ride this till I get too old to ride. If I keep riding the Lynskey for the next 23 years I'll be 88 years old! Maybe that won't be too old! LOL!! so maybe then I will buy another bike, but the Lynskey won't have 160,000 miles on by then because I'm not doing 12,000 to 15,000 miles a year like I was when I was racing with the 84 bike, so I could feasibly be riding the Lynskey for more years past my 88th birthday.

I do the same thing with my cars too, I buy them about 5 to 7 years old with low mileage, and drive them till it cost to much to keep repairing it then I fix it up one last time and give it to someone and buy another for myself. So my cars when I stop driving them might have around 200,000 miles on the odo. I'm the type of person that takes care of my stuff and will use them till I deem it ready to be let go. I know most people only keep their cars 5 to 7 years max, I don't do that.
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  #66  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:38 PM
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tsarpepe tsarpepe is offline
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Originally Posted by froze View Post
3 years? My god that seems absurdly low! Why is that?

The bike I bought in 1984 that I still have I trained and raced on that bike for 10 years and rode it another 19 years after that, it was my main bike all those years, it has about 160,000 miles on it, I could jump on that bike today and ride it. I have other older bikes too; but now my main bike is a 2013 Lynskey Peloton that I bought in 2013, I will ride this till I get too old to ride. If I keep riding the Lynskey for the next 23 years I'll be 88 years old! Maybe that won't be too old! LOL!! so maybe then I will buy another bike, but the Lynskey won't have 160,000 miles on by then because I'm not doing 12,000 to 15,000 miles a year like I was when I was racing with the 84 bike, so I could feasibly be riding the Lynskey for more years past my 88th birthday.

I do the same thing with my cars too, I buy them about 5 to 7 years old with low mileage, and drive them till it cost to much to keep repairing it then I fix it up one last time and give it to someone and buy another for myself. So my cars when I stop driving them might have around 200,000 miles on the odo. I'm the type of person that takes care of my stuff and will use them till I deem it ready to be let go. I know most people only keep their cars 5 to 7 years max, I don't do that.
It was a lighthearted jab. I have no way to calculate the average for how long people keep a bike. But it's clear that there are many folks on the forum that rotate through bikes much faster that what is needed for any corrosion to take hold. I'm glad that you're in it for the long ride with the Linskey. Plus, that one's unlikely to rust in any case.
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  #67  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:39 PM
froze froze is offline
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Originally Posted by weaponsgrade View Post
This is a pretty interesting test of rust-inhibitors:

https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/an...t-1073581.html

I'll have to give Fluid Film a try. Personally, I've treated all my steel bikes with either Frame Saver or LPS. After every ride, I'll at least wipe down the top tube. If I happen to get caught in the rain, I'll pull out the seatpost. Every now and then, I'll wipe the entire bike down with Pledge.
Wait a second, that test when he went to battery acid is, well, last I checked rain didn't contain battery acid! So personally I find the test invalid after the introduction of battery acid.

Also Pledge is NOT a good choice to be using on a bicycle, Pledge was never meant to be used outdoors in all sorts of weather on metal and last. The best stuff to use is a non abrasive automotive wax, meaning it can't be a cleaner, it can't say it will remove swirls or fine scratches, it must say non-abrasive because bike paint is very thin compared to cars, Pledge is non abrasive and that's the only thing it has going for it. The best wax to use, though this is subjective but it's difficult to beat these two, is Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax for darker colors, or Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 for lighter colors. There are some better waxes but they cost a fortune and some will have several steps to use, and they don't really do that much better then Meguiar's but they will drain your pocket book!
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  #68  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:43 PM
froze froze is offline
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Originally Posted by tsarpepe View Post
It was a lighthearted jab. I have no way to calculate the average for how long people keep a bike. But it's clear that there are many folks on the forum that rotate through bikes much faster that what is needed for any corrosion to take hold. I'm glad that you're in it for the long ride with the Linskey. Plus, that one's unlikely to rust in any case.
I went with Titanium because I did move to a rainy climate unlike S Calif so I didn't want to take any chances with rust, plus it rides a bit more comfortable then any of my steel bikes. However I will be buying a new touring bike hopefully this spring, and it will be steel so the test thing I found to be very interesting and will probably use the WD40 stuff since it's cheaper and I won't be pouring battery acid all over the inside of my bike!
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  #69  
Old 02-09-2019, 03:56 PM
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tsarpepe tsarpepe is offline
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Originally Posted by weaponsgrade View Post
This is a pretty interesting test of rust-inhibitors:

https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/an...t-1073581.html
This is an epic thread!
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  #70  
Old 02-09-2019, 04:10 PM
weaponsgrade weaponsgrade is offline
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Originally Posted by froze View Post
Wait a second, that test when he went to battery acid is, well, last I checked rain didn't contain battery acid! So personally I find the test invalid after the introduction of battery acid.

Also Pledge is NOT a good choice to be using on a bicycle, Pledge was never meant to be used outdoors in all sorts of weather on metal and last. The best stuff to use is a non abrasive automotive wax, meaning it can't be a cleaner, it can't say it will remove swirls or fine scratches, it must say non-abrasive because bike paint is very thin compared to cars, Pledge is non abrasive and that's the only thing it has going for it. The best wax to use, though this is subjective but it's difficult to beat these two, is Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax for darker colors, or Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 for lighter colors. There are some better waxes but they cost a fortune and some will have several steps to use, and they don't really do that much better then Meguiar's but they will drain your pocket book!
I think it was JB who recommended Pledge. I'm sure there are better products out there, but Pledge is cheap, easy to apply, and smells like lemons on a spring day.
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  #71  
Old 02-09-2019, 05:45 PM
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weisan weisan is offline
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Y'all are wrong!

The best way to "season" a steel frame is to take it on a couple of trips...



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  #72  
Old 02-09-2019, 08:12 PM
vincenz vincenz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froze View Post
Wait a second, that test when he went to battery acid is, well, last I checked rain didn't contain battery acid! So personally I find the test invalid after the introduction of battery acid.



Also Pledge is NOT a good choice to be using on a bicycle, Pledge was never meant to be used outdoors in all sorts of weather on metal and last. The best stuff to use is a non abrasive automotive wax, meaning it can't be a cleaner, it can't say it will remove swirls or fine scratches, it must say non-abrasive because bike paint is very thin compared to cars, Pledge is non abrasive and that's the only thing it has going for it. The best wax to use, though this is subjective but it's difficult to beat these two, is Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax for darker colors, or Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 for lighter colors. There are some better waxes but they cost a fortune and some will have several steps to use, and they don't really do that much better then Meguiar's but they will drain your pocket book!


What’s the reasoning behind the 2 different waxes for different colors? I’ve used both on light and dark color cars and never noticed a difference. Are these car waxes better than stuff like Pedro’s bike lust?
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  #73  
Old 02-09-2019, 09:16 PM
froze froze is offline
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Originally Posted by vincenz View Post
What’s the reasoning behind the 2 different waxes for different colors? I’ve used both on light and dark color cars and never noticed a difference. Are these car waxes better than stuff like Pedro’s bike lust?
Darker colors reflect light differently than lighter colors...however I wouldn't stress over it if you already have one of the waxes I mentioned, or you have several bikes with different colors and you don't want to fool with buying two waxes, then get one that's best for the color of your car and use it on the bikes as well as the car of course.

Pedro's is expensive when you consider how small the bottle is vs what the size of bottle is for car wax; plus Pedros is a lower end silicone wax which they probably simply use a low grade car wax and charge a lot more for it.

Once you washed your bike really well with Dawn for Dishes non citrus then you wax the bike, after that whenever you need to wash the bike use Meguiar's Gold Class car wash, this wash won't strip off the wax like Dawn will, but use Dawn initially to get all the oil off the frame that Meguiars won't be able to do. First time you wax your bike you should put two coats on, and you only need to re wax once a year and should only need to put on one coat. By the way Dawn for dishes works great for cleaning the chain and gears, simply use a damp sponge add a small amount of Dawn and go at it, a lot cheaper then buying some sort of bike specific chain/gear cleaner and works just as well if not better! then use a fine spray for rinsing.

Cars need waxing more often than bikes due they get dirtier more than a bike will, plus they are exposed to the sun more.
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