This is not a "best chain lube" thread...

[OldCrank]

This stuff is sort of a "lazy man's wax".

Seems to work well but still picks up some road grit after awhile, then I wipe down and add just a little more. Cleaner than any wet lubes I've used. Haven't found any great dry lubes.

Pricey.

https://www.dry-fluids.com/dryfluid-bike-2.html

[hainy]

The fact is that a medium to heavy synthetic wet lube on chains works the best, for wear, for lower friction and coping with changing weather conditions. {I have used many with teams and I have a favorite} Dry lubes are woeful, they barely lube the chain enough to stop it squeaking and you have to pour it on regularly. It is not very economical at all. It is a waste of time in wet weather. Dry lubes are a grub’s method of bike care. {to quote Steve Hogg} All the team mechanics I know only use a wet lube and we have proven it by lubing half the team with one type and the other half with another oil and it shows what
works side by side in the same wash frequency and weather conditions and kilometers. Longevity of the chain and cassette is ensured by regular cleaning and correct lubrication. This can make a four fold difference but that’s up to how much trouble you want to take. Once a week clean and oil before a race is great. To apply the chain lube use a squeeze bottle as sprays are wasteful and messy. Use your left hand to hold the bottle and steady it against the rear derailleur so while turning the pedals on the work stand slowly backwards wipe a drop of oil off the nozzle which just touches the chain onto each and every chain link on the inside of the chain as it feeds off the bottom jockey wheel of the derailleur. The chain should show no traces of black grimy oil if it has been cleaned properly. Then after rotating the pedals for a few moments use an old rage and wrap it around the chain and rotate the pedals again so as to wipe off the excess should it be there. You cannot wipe too much off as it is the oil that is inside the links that does the job and enough will work out to keep the exterior oily enough. After riding there should never be oil flicking over the spokes and rim, if so ease up on the oil and wipe off excess before use. If you start a race in the rain then smear a thin layer of grease on the chain and it will remain fairly well lubed for 4 to 5 hours.
(Quoting Darrell of Llewellyn)
The only lube I will use for the rest of my life is Finish Line wet lube (green bottle). Still the best lube on the planet as far as I am concerned.

[SPOKE]

Originally Posted by zap

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I did all that long ago. It was a waste of effing time........took time away from brewing beer.

Now I leave the factory lube on, reapply lube thrice then get a new chain (around the 3k mark) ......and I purchase my beer at the grocery store.

I'm glad to know another soul that thinks about chains the way I do

[Mikej]

Rock n Roll and Rock n Roll extreme for mtb. Biggest downsides are it takes a lot of product and it wears quickly- but it’s clean.

[joosttx]

acetone is a very clean "lubricant".

[SteveFrench]

I use Valvoline gear oil. That's what D.I.D. says to use on their dirtbike chains so I'm sure that it's good enough for a bicycle. One $8 bottle will last for many many years.

Some of the green people may not like it but I clean my chain with Kerosene after every ride.

I'm not suggesting anyone uses gear oil and kerosene. I'm just saying that it is my choice and I couldn't be happier with it. The idea of paying $13 for a 4oz. bottle of fancy lubricant disgusts me, but to each their own.

[Cloozoe]

Originally Posted by joosttx

acetone is a very clean "lubricant".

~sigh~ No less than I deserve. Truly sorry I started this thread. I knew better, too.

I recall a Simpson's episode wherein Marge tells Homer that she hopes he's at least learned something from his most recent moronic travails; he replies smugly:

"Marge, my friend, I haven't learned a thing!"

D'oh!

[Louis]

Originally Posted by Cloozoe

Truly sorry I started this thread. I knew better, too.

I triple dog dare you to ask what's better, Campy or Shimano?

[Bob Ross]

Originally Posted by hainy

Then after rotating the pedals for a few moments use an old rage and wrap it around the chain

yeah, any time I get hung up about how "clean" my drivetrain is I wind up in an old rage.








but yeah, +1 for NFS

[gemship]

Originally Posted by SteveFrench

I use Valvoline gear oil. That's what D.I.D. says to use on their dirtbike chains so I'm sure that it's good enough for a bicycle. One $8 bottle will last for many many years.

Some of the green people may not like it but I clean my chain with Kerosene after every ride.

I'm not suggesting anyone uses gear oil and kerosene. I'm just saying that it is my choice and I couldn't be happier with it. The idea of paying $13 for a 4oz. bottle of fancy lubricant disgusts me, but to each their own.

I like that but even better still I use whatever I have on hand multi viscosity motor oil since I do my own oil changes on my vehicles and there is always extra. I cut it with mineral spirits to use as a carrier and get the stuff flowing out of an old park tool oil lube squeeze bottle. Much like the kerosene the spirits work well as a degreaser but I also have a park tool chain cleaner as well as compressed air. Great for more thorough cleaning oh and mineral spirits are just good to have on hand for painting projects or other degreasing activity. A quart bottle has lasted me over six years as I got it just for the task of making my own lube and the motor oil was already paid for. You gotta be a bit of a alchemist messing around with the stuff but it kinda goes hand in hand with keeping your bike clean anyways.

[JStonebarger]

Originally Posted by Cloozoe

Anything as dry/clean that might reduce friction/wear a little more and last longer?
Paved road riding exclusively, seldom in the rain. Priorities are cleanliness first, protection against wear/corrosion/friction, second, longevity distant third ( hey, I like fiddling with my bikes)

I've only been waxing our chains for a few months, so I'm still experimenting...

I don't mind fiddling with my bikes, as you say, but I'm pretty lazy about cleaning. Believe it or not that was what convinced me to try waxing: your drive train is no longer oily; taking off the chain to wax is quick and easy and no longer a mess; your chain clings to less dirt and sand; the chainrings and cogs stay clean. So far the only down side is missing the occasional chain ring tattoo on my calf.

Waxing is the cleanest option by far, and as for friction & longevity, nothing tests better.

[JStonebarger]

To and from CX Nats this year we took four bikes -- three with waxed drive trains and one still with oil. With only a two-bike rack, a couple bikes traveled in the car. Guess which one always had a spot on the hitch rack?