Wheelbuilding (learning how to) - Page 2

Tony T · #16 10-07-2016, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiasticon

is it better for a beginning builder to use bladed spokes though, since they can easier control wind-up? I honestly don't know, I'm asking...

I found truing my bladed CX-ray with the DT Swiss Spoke Holder to be helpful.

staggerwing · #17 10-07-2016, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

yup.

Hasn't been mentioned but I also use Lindseed oil between nipple and spoke threads(wee squeeze bottle) and Mobil One between nipple and rim. Stress relieve, seat spoke heads if they aren't flush with the hub flange with tension.

Just to be clear, "boiled" linseed oil, yes? Stuff isn't really boiled, but has a cobalt drier compound added which causes the oil to catalyze and dry over a few days. Also used as a rubbed in furniture finish.

oldpotatoe · #18 10-07-2016, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by staggerwing

Just to be clear, "boiled" linseed oil, yes? Stuff isn't really boiled, but has a cobalt drier compound added which causes the oil to catalyze and dry over a few days. Also used as a rubbed in furniture finish.

yup..careful with boiled linseed oil tho.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yq6VW-c2Ts

staggerwing · #19 10-07-2016, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

yup..careful with boiled linseed oil tho.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yq6VW-c2Ts

Yes. Any rags or paper towels saturated with the stuff should be opened up and laid out to dry. Better outside. Absolutely do NOT wad up and toss in the bin.

smontanaro · #20 10-07-2016, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony T

Any help with resources will be appreciated.

If you have a local bike co-op, check to see if they have open shop and will steer you through building your first set. I went to West Town Bikes here in Chicago. Three Wednesday evenings in a row. Worked great, got to meet all the urban hipsters working on their fixies, too.

Hermes_Alex · #21 10-07-2016, 10:14 AM

My only piece of advice would be to go for a higher spoke count than you'd have someone else build with. H+Sons are consistently easy to build, CX-Rays will make it windup a non-issue, and if you make the spoke count higher (28-32 spokes or so), the build will be more forgiving of uneven spoke tension, and less taxing in general. Get ready for sore hands, stress relieving those CX-rays, however!

doomridesout · #22 10-07-2016, 10:17 AM

CX-Rays might be overkill for a first time around-- they can be kind of fiddly and learning to destress and unwind round spokes is part of the skill.

Mark McM · #23 10-07-2016, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiasticon

is it better for a beginning builder to use bladed spokes though, since they can easier control wind-up? I honestly don't know, I'm asking...

CX-Rays make it easier to see the windup, but they actually wind-up quite a bit more than round spokes. They are also multiple times more expensive than round spokes.

Although they don't always produce the best quality wheel, straight gauge (i.e. non-butted) spokes are the easiest to build with, especially when starting out. They have much less winding up than either butted or flattened (ovalized) spokes, and since they are less stretchy, the rim will move in better proportion to nipple adjustment. They are also the least expensive spoke.

Tony T · #24 10-07-2016, 11:16 AM

My other 2 wheelsets (HED and a custom build w/H Plus Son) are CX-Ray, which is why I'm leaning towards those for my first build (over the Winter)

guido · #25 10-07-2016, 01:06 PM

i really like Bill Mould's Master Wheelbuilding DVD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hindmost · #26 10-07-2016, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter P.

Before you get the fancy parts for your wheels, practice by taking apart an existing pair of wheels and putting them back together.

I was going to suggest something along these lines because one's first effort may not yield optimal results. I have built most of my wheel sets for a bunch of years. A few of which were less than satisfactory due to: trial, error, retruing, retruing the retruing, do-overs.

oldpotatoe · #27 10-08-2016, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiasticon

is it better for a beginning builder to use bladed spokes though, since they can easier control wind-up? I honestly don't know, I'm asking...

Bladed, ala CXRays, are thinner, and wind up a lot more than a butted or straight gauge spoke..Easier to SEE but winds up more. I use a "TwistResist" but thin spokes, like CXRAy, are harder to build with than a 2/1.8/2mm butted spoke. And the resulting wheel's performance isn't aided a whole bunch considering the 3x co$t..

doomridesout · #28 10-08-2016, 11:03 AM

And, windup aside, the CX-Rays are quite elastic. The times I've build with them my spoke length calculation didn't account for stretch and I was either bottoming out or close on the threads of the nipples to get to the appropriate tension. Not where you want to be on a first build. A friend of mine actually unlaced and trimmed by 1mm all his CX-Rays to deal with this (a huge hassle, but what needed to happen). If you don't have a Phil Wood or Morizumi machine to cut and reroll threads, that ain't happening.

ripvanrando · #29 10-08-2016, 11:39 AM

When you flip it over make sure it put it in the right hole.

Get your glasses out if necessary.

Gummee · #30 10-08-2016, 12:36 PM

you don't need fancy truing stands to build good wheels. I made do with a cheap Minoura folding stand that wasn't even straight for lots of years. Good dishing tool and some patience and you still end up with good wheels.

True, the Park 'pro-level' stands DO help, but they're not a necessity when you're starting out.

32h and 36h wheels are much more forgiving of errors than lower spoke count wheels. ...and will last many many years. Before I sold em when I went 11sp 2 years ago, I had a pair of Open SUP CD wheels that were built in the early 90s. Still going round and round...

M