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  #1  
Old 10-06-2016, 04:58 PM
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Tony T Tony T is offline
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Wheelbuilding (learning how to)

I've built up my bike from the frame up and I've recently reached the point where I'm comfortable truing a wheel (this used to give me trouble in the past), so now I'm considering as my next project to build a set of wheels this winter.

I have an old Park home-mechanic wheel truing stand (don't know the model, but it's not the one Park now sells as a home mechanic model, mine has calipers) — (Do I need a better truing stand?), the Park TM-1 Spoke Tension gauge, and the Park WAG-5 portable dishing tool.

I'm thinking of White Industries for the hubs, H Plus Son for the rims, Sapim CX-Ray for the spokes, and Sapim secure lock brass nipples.

What I need now are few wheel building references (i.e books, web sites, youtube videos, etc).

Any help with resources will be appreciated.
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:04 PM
foo_fighter foo_fighter is offline
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This one is really good:
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

If you're building with discs, Zinn's book has the best description of lacing a rear so the outside spokes pull on the drive side and the brake side.

Last edited by foo_fighter; 10-06-2016 at 05:07 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-06-2016, 05:21 PM
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weisan weisan is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foo_fighter View Post
This is the one I used.
More than good enough to get started ...
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2016, 05:39 PM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
I've built up my bike from the frame up and I've recently reached the point where I'm comfortable truing a wheel (this used to give me trouble in the past), so now I'm considering as my next project to build a set of wheels this winter.

I have an old Park home-mechanic wheel truing stand (don't know the model, but it's not the one Park now sells as a home mechanic model, mine has calipers) — (Do I need a better truing stand?), the Park TM-1 Spoke Tension gauge, and the Park WAG-5 portable dishing tool.

I'm thinking of White Industries for the hubs, H Plus Son for the rims, Sapim CX-Ray for the spokes, and Sapim secure lock brass nipples.

What I need now are few wheel building references (i.e books, web sites, youtube videos, etc).

Any help with resources will be appreciated.
These books but I think CXRay spokes do little in terms of wheel performance for a BUNCH more $..I'd use Sapim Race or DT Comp spokes.

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Wheelbuil.../dp/0964983532

https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel.../dp/0960723668

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help?area[]=62

Not hard but can be difficult..to get the 4 variables for a wheel correct..all at the same time.
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  #5  
Old 10-06-2016, 06:50 PM
mcfarton mcfarton is offline
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Lots of info here
miketechinfo.com

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
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  #6  
Old 10-06-2016, 06:55 PM
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Tony T Tony T is offline
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I forgot that I already have Jobst Brandt's "The Bicycle Wheel" on my shelf.
Just put in an order for "The Art of Wheelbuilding: A Bench Reference for Neophytes, Pros & Wheelaholics " and purchased the PDF for "Professional Guide to Wheel Building"
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  #7  
Old 10-06-2016, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
Not hard but can be difficult..to get the 4 variables for a wheel correct..all at the same time.
Lateral, Radial, Dish and….. Spoke Tension?
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:29 PM
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phcollard phcollard is offline
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I went through the same adventure. I have only built maybe a dozen wheelsets so far though so people like OP will offer much better advice than I can do.

What I found difficult was that it required much more concentration than I thought. For the first few wheelsets I really had to think about the logic of all this. Like which way do you have to turn the nipples and on which side to correct that $$&&) dish, for instance. So keep the beer for when you're done.

A tension meter is a must. A friend of mine checks tension by ear, but I am a guitar player and still the tension meter gives a much more reliable reading. The portable dish tool you mention is absolute crap. I have one as well. To flexy to be of any use. Any Montrealer reading this? I'll give it to you for free. How nice uh?

I still have a hard time getting the four variables in line. I am confident I am building good wheels now, but I am wandering if wheelbuilding is not an exercice in compromises. You will never have a wheel that's perfectly round, true, dished and with an even tension. At least I can't

My two cents. And good luck, this is fun!
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  #9  
Old 10-06-2016, 07:52 PM
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Tony T Tony T is offline
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Originally Posted by foo_fighter View Post
Thanks for the suggestion.

Here' a plus — emailed the PDF of the book to my Kindle, and it converted pretty well
(even the contents are "clickable, this is from my Kindle for Mac App (just drag a PDF to the icon to import)):
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File Type: jpg Screen Shot 2016-10-06 at 8.58.06 PM.jpg (46.4 KB, 642 views)

Last edited by Tony T; 10-06-2016 at 08:00 PM.
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  #10  
Old 10-06-2016, 08:07 PM
bikinchris bikinchris is offline
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Yup, lacing is the easy part. John Barnett taught his 5 year old son to lace wheels. Getting the feel of a properly tensioned wheel, while at the same time having it true, dished and round is what takes practice. "The Bicycle Wheel" is really all you need.
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  #11  
Old 10-06-2016, 08:11 PM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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Before you get the fancy parts for your wheels, practice by taking apart an existing pair of wheels and putting them back together.
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2016, 09:18 PM
lonoeightysix lonoeightysix is offline
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i've had success with final adjustments by applying a dab of super lube multi-purpose grease on a q-tip on every eyelet prior to lacing; helps with wind-up on the last go around.

proper bedding of spoke heads and frequent destressing between rounds helps as well.
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  #13  
Old 10-07-2016, 06:00 AM
Tandem Rider Tandem Rider is offline
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I'm going to date myself here, but I remember the Ladies at the Schwinn factory building wheels for the bikes. They were faster than the machines at the time. Stick their hand into a huge box of spokes come out with 9, roll the thumb across them creating a "curved fan" of spokes, stick all 9 into the flange of the hub. All 4 flanges in less time than it took you to read this far. Spiral screwdrivers with special tips for drawing the spokes up to partial tension, quick tension and true. Next.

At the time I saw that, I thought I was an experienced wheel builder, then I realized that the gal I watched built as many wheels that day as I had in my life. Perspective.

No where near the quality of OP/Ergott or any of the quality builders, but they had the tricks for speed and production.
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  #14  
Old 10-07-2016, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
Lateral, Radial, Dish and….. Spoke Tension?
yup.

Hasn't been mentioned but I also use Lindseed oil between nipple and spoke threads(wee squeeze bottle) and Mobil One between nipple and rim. Stress relieve, seat spoke heads if they aren't flush with the hub flange with tension.
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File Type: png PHO_spoke-head-punch_web.png (21.1 KB, 596 views)
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Last edited by oldpotatoe; 10-07-2016 at 06:10 AM.
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  #15  
Old 10-07-2016, 07:27 AM
chiasticon chiasticon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
CXRay spokes do little in terms of wheel performance for a BUNCH more $..I'd use Sapim Race or DT Comp spokes.
is it better for a beginning builder to use bladed spokes though, since they can easier control wind-up? I honestly don't know, I'm asking...
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