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2021 Andy Gilmour Medium Reach Brake
I'll go ahead and begin what might be a long thread.
Almost immediately after sending the Kirk MRB back to Bend Oregon to Dan's custody, I missed it. It wasn't just that specific Kirk, although that was part of it, but I was missing a fast light 700c x 30ish road bike that wasn't overbuilt for a 6'2" 170# rider. I've known Andy Gilmour for about 15 years. He has done a bunch of repair work on my vintage frames: he replaced a top tube and re-painted a Raleigh International; reamed the seat tube of a Bruce Gordon; straightened and aligned the fork on a Lejeune. When I dropped off the fork, he called the same afternoon to tell me it was ready. Fast and friendly service, delivered with stories about frame building and racing, and usually a beer from the shop fridge. He builds aluminum and carbon too, but he largely flies under the radar. Over the years, whenever I saw Andy at a swap or bike event, he would say, "when are you going to have me make you a bike?" to which I would reply, "as soon as I sell more of the bikes filling up my garage." Well, I've slowly but steadily simplified my collection, and Gilmour seemed like a great local choice to build me a bike to fill the slot left by the Kirk. It will be my first custom. Including Kirk, I considered a bunch of other well-regarded makers often seen on the PL--Hampsten, Nobilette, DeSalvo, Clockwork, and others. In the end, I decided to keep it local. Andy's shop is only a short bike ride from my house. I delivered him a folder with geometry options and photos and drawings that I've saved over the years. Andy is old school--no Cad drawings--but instead an actual scale paper drawing of the frame on a big old drafting board. He is a rim brake guy, and was grousing that he might have to buy thru-axle and disc frame building fixtures. When I arrived, he showed me a Confente frame that had been in an accident and that he was repairing. He had spread out an assortment of Richard Sachs, Ritchey, and Pacenti lugs, fork crowns, and dropouts on the drafting table for me to fiddle with while we talked. We talked about tire clearance, brakes, and forks. Steel or carbon is the first question, which also will determine if the fork will be 1" or 1 1/8". We also discussed standard vs. oversized tubing. Next steps, decide on the fork material and bring in my mid-reach brakes and wheelset with the widest rim and tire combination that I plan to run on the bike. After riding a brisk 60 miles on my MAP yesterday, I think I've answered the fork question: steel it will be. More soon... Last edited by Bici-Sonora; 02-14-2021 at 06:20 PM. |
#2
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This is going to be fun! Can’t wait to follow the journey here!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Moots RSL, Kirk JKS, and Alliance All-road. |
#3
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I've heard a lot of good things about him, and you can't beat local access. Looking forwards to hearing more.
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#4
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Sounds great I still dig my Mil on sale frame, keeps on surprising me! Always fun to jump on a custom and std reach brake bikes rock.
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#5
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Quote:
I’m still planning to get the Milwaukee while I wait—might get the on sale one now. fun to compare. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#6
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oh wow, Scott, this sounds amazing! I'm tempted to say Andy should make a duplicate for me :-)
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http://instagram.com/downloadmeahoagie |
#7
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Exciting news! I recently got my old IF built tournesol back, 57mm reach brakes with 30mm tires right now. It is nice to have a simple "lightweight" in the stable although most of the time I still grab something with bigger tires, lights, fenders and a handlebar bag on it.
I am looking forward to some longer road rides this summer on that bike. So many details to think about on a build like that. u thinkin Modern or weirdo vintage rando parts?
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please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#8
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Parts---hold on just a second! I'm still trying to come to terms with how many degrees to slope to the top tube and such! haha.
I really *am* struggling a bit. Despite having owned so many good bicycles whose geometry I can use for reference, nailing down exactly what I want on this one is not proving as easy as I'd hoped. In plugging in numbers, I feel like I'm cooking up a weird amalgam of Dan's Kirk, my Rivendell Quickbeam, my Ritchey and my MAP. Take all those and then throw in a pinch of Chapman, Rob English, Look 595, Riv. Roadeo, and Ibis Hakka, and wait for son of Frankenbike to come to life. Current frontrunner Geo.: 61cm ST (c to t) 72.5 deg. parallel HT & ST 590mm TT 3.5 degree TT Slope 197mm HT 45mm Fork Rake 435mm Chainstays 80mm BB drop My concerns about the geo. above. Is the BB drop too much, and should I shorten the chainstays a bit? Part of the geo. decision also centers around parts. The more modern the build, the more I'm likely to favor a more severe TT slope. I have three build options on hand:
Next discussion OS or standard diameter tubes? Another minefield. haha |
#9
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Here are a few of the steel bikes--both modern and more traditional--that Andy has built over the that I'm using for reference to think about what I want:
![]() https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...g?crc=24551011 ![]() |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Here are few more images of Gilmours--most of these racier than what I'm thinking of, but they have details I like. Andy's favorite steel of all time is 853, and he uses it a lot:
![]() ![]() ![]() |
#12
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ya, trying to get everything just right can be tough, it is easy to overthink it.
How will he be joining the tubes? I assume TIG or fillet if you are freely considering slope angles? When I think of the parts I just decide the important things first- 1. gearing 2. tire width 3. shifter location Then figure out the parts that support that. For me this usually means I am choosing weirdo parts ![]() I totally know what you mean about slope angle being related to part style, seems silly but oh well ![]() As far as chainstay length goes. I like to have the same amount of gap between the front tire / downtube and rear wheel / seat tube. Just looks nice. I don't think chainstay length is really important. Shorter will be a little bit stiffer but in reality is hard to notice. Shorter ones may make the bike feel a little racier because it can change direction slightly faster it isn't actually faster. That easier change of direction might actually make the bike slower. BB drop, I used to think BB drop was a big deal but less so recently. I have spent a lot of time on 2 different bikes recently. one with a 10.5" bb and one wit a 11.75" bb. After getting used to it they both feel great. I am not saying that you can't tell the difference but just that I think it is easy to make too big a fuss about this. For me bb height is more about a balance of easy mounting/dismounting and ground clearance for cornering/road obstacles.
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please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#13
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that boulder was cool, wish i rode it, was afraid it was going to be too flexy for me.
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please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#14
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also, when I think of what I now think of as the best balance of speed and comfort in a road tire I think my chapman with 700x35 RH extralights is superior to the tournesols 700x30/32 tire options. But for various reasons I think bikes with 57mm reach calipers (roughly limted to 33's?) are more compelling.
The 35's just don't feel slower but they are super comfy. I think the big trouble with going up to 35's is brakes. Long reach calipers don't work (i think?) and then you have to start debating cantis vs centerpulls vs discs. A debate which has no correct answer. Also, which 57mm reach brakes? The nice shimano ones with alloy barrel adjusters (BR-R600?) are getting rare and expensive, the VO's work well but are a little CNC looking, I am a snob and can't be seen on Tektro's. chapman with 35's- ![]() tournesol with 30's (want to get it onto 32's this summer)- ![]()
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please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#15
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It definitely would have been. I still pine for a similar bike - light tubing, road geometry, and fat-tire clearance.. It rode exceptionally well despite how flexy it was, or maybe because of how flexy it was, I just want it with slightly stouter tubing and slightly bigger overall - my affinity for 130mm stems has waned in favor of a bit longer TTs and bigger frames, with 42cm bars instead of 40cm. Having Waterford or Gunnar or Wages build one similar would make a great superfluous N+1 one of these days.
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