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#181
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You may notice I don't tend to slam my stems and am okay leaving 1.5-2.0cms of spacers up top. I also have an "OK ROADIE" sticker under my monitor. I don't take any of this as serious as it may seem ![]() |
#182
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Sure, but quill stems provide for a lot more adjustment than that. Arguably in a more aesthetically pleasing way.
Don't get me wrong, I am not accusing you of taking things too seriously. On the other hand, we all do, if we didn't, we wouldn't be on here debating 1 degree top tube increments ![]() Quote:
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please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#183
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wow. so much about this to love
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#184
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Tubing, Fork Crown, and Butting Choices
Andy and I started talking tubing choices, butting, fork crowns, and steerers.
He is recommending a light 1" threadless steerer--probably an SL through Richard Sachs. I'm keen on the Richie-Issimo 2.0 crown: https://www.richardsachs.com/product...-0-fork-crown/ Andy likes the Sachs crown as well. We had a little discussion about lightweight steel tubes. We looked at the Rene Herse/Kasei OS offerings (.7.4.7) and Andy is concerned about the TT buts being too thin for everday use: "if it dents, it's gonna be right where you have to stare at it every time you ride!" Andy then handed me 4 sheets of copy paper, "that's how thick the tube is at the .4 section." He mentioned that Double OS 31.7 Columbus Spirit HHS TT (.6.4.6) can be squeezed and deformed with your bare hand. He is also not a fan of the Spirit chainstays for mechanical shifting because their extreme taper makes it hard to route the rear derailleur cable cleanly and the cable stop has to be at a weird angle or you have to run longer than normal housing. So, we are thinking about a mix of tubes. Maybe some 853, some Pego-Ritchie, some Kasei, and perhaps some Dedacciai thrown in. He asked me to think more about the thin-walled tubing. My first thought is that on this bike, I'm willing to take a chance on thin-walled tubes to enjoy the ride quality (which would be an everyday enjoyment) rather than hedge and get something heavier just to protect against a TT dent that may or may not ever happen. I don't know what the tubing buts on my MAP are, but I did get a tiny top tube dimple when a lady with a steel cruiser let her steel bars fall on my TT at a cafe bike rack. It doesn't really bother me, but maybe it would if it was worse. All that said, am I really gonna feel the difference between a .7.4.7 tube and an 8.5.8 tube? I think probably not. Because he knows I like all this minutia, Andy is letting me be a lot more involved in this process than usual, which I appreciate. Anybody know the specs of the Peggo-Richie (Spirit for lugs) tubes? I believe these are supposed to be a bit more robust than Spirit. |
#185
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The Peg/Rich tubing is the same as Spirit for lugs, which has longer butted ends for lug use. The only difference is the shaping of the chainstays, they are shaped to fit better into standard oval chainstay sockets on BB lugs. Otherwise, to my knowledge, they are essentially the same product.
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http://arcycles.weebly.com/ |
#186
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Even saying that, I'd probably go with .8/.5/.8 for the reasons that Andy's pointing out. If you want to go lighter, maybe Ti or Al or carbon would be preferred. |
#187
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^^^Yes--this is the important part. More and more this bike is coming into focus as a version of Dan's Kirk but one tweaked just for me--steel frame/fork comfort, and a frame that builds up to a 20lbs complete without any overly exotic parts. It will be my raciest bike, but not a bike I'll race on. Andy is going to let me photograph the pipes and parts before he starts torching things together. I'm looking forward to it. |
#188
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