#16
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Quote:
It even points me to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqJRGnnJU00 I am wondering if I can just wrap a new leather over the current saddle without peeling off the top surface. I mean so much of it has already worn through or looks to be completely bonded to the foam underneath.
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#17
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I have not attempted it myself (yet), but apparently kangaroo leather is a good material for replacing worn saddle leather. It is very thin and stretches easily around the small radius curves that a saddle top has.
I've got an original Selle Italia Flite on my commuter bike that I might try this with. Not sure if I will try to replace the foam or not. |
#18
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There's an entire thread over on BikeForums about this:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ur-saddle.html |
#19
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Restoring your favorite saddle is a cool idea. You can try searching for saddle recovery kits online, and there are also some helpful YouTube tutorials that show the process step by step.
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#20
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Ah, c'mon. That's why I ride--so I can eat as many burritos as I want.
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#21
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This wouldn't help where there are holes or tears in the saddle as in the OP's rear edges, but I've restored several leather and microtex saddle covers with shoe paint where the cover was intact but ugly. https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=233378
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#22
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I think "refurbishing" is a better term than recover, because you can be almost certain that the foam under the cover is no longer doing it's job.
If you want to do the job right you should also put new foam / padding in. |
#23
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As sad as I might be, I think Iād sell the vegetables I grow and buy a new saddle before I tried this. :-)
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#24
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#25
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I've receoverd 2 or 3 saddles with various levels of success. The Bikeforums thread is the best resource. Heat gun to remove current cover. Sandable caulk to fill in divots in the foam. Spray glue (3M) for the top, some contact cement for the edges (the hardest part of the processs, both to adhere and to get looking acceptable). Leather is easier to work with but hard to get a sample that is durable. Marine vinyl is very durable but harder to work with and anchor around the edges. Weisan, I think you had reached out for some vinyl at one point....
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#26
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What about a local shoe repair store or motorcycle upholstery repair outfit?
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Gutta cavat lapidem, non vi, sed saepe cadendo. - Ovid |
#27
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But then I sort of postponed the project and never did follow up again with you. I am still interested if you have some spare scraps. Thanks for chiming in and sharing your experience Very appreciative of the links, tips and encouragement offered here by pals.
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š»* Last edited by weisan; 10-26-2023 at 05:51 AM. |
#28
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Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk |
#29
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Thanks hill pal.
I have watched the video that Carson posted on YouTube and he seems to encourage and have instilled enough confidence that I think I am gonna give it a try to do it myself. I ordered the 3M 777 spray adhesive from Amazon yesterday. Today I am gonna hunt down some old leather jacket at my local thrift stores.
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#30
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I recovered a few saddles, with decent results. Bought leather from eBay, and a container of Barge Cement from Amazon.
For me, the suppleness and thickness of the leather was critical. I bought several pieces of leather that were too thick, and that made rolling over the edges on the bottom a struggle. I'd have to dig out my spare leather and measure it to be sure, but I think the ideal thickness is about 1mm. It was a fun project, but I wouldn't do it unless you have a particular saddle that's out of production, and you can't find any NOS samples. In my case, I recovered a few Avocet O2 Ti saddles that I love, and count it as a successful project.
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Bikes? Homebuilt lugged steel |
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