#31
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Also 15s of 1000-1100w is pretty good. Peak power counts but that's solid power for a normal sprint. I'd be glad with that at the end of a race, that's for sure. A typical Tour stage winner is putting down 13s @1100w - https://sportsscientists.com/2016/07...print-stage-2/ Front aero wheels help in particular. The track I raced on last was an abomination so it didn't load the front wheel like a normal track. It was a converted go-kart track, 318m?, 14 deg, so about half the banking necessary - T-Town is 333m and 28 deg, and all that meant that going around the bends where I raced you were more concerned with not flying over the banking - it was basically impossible to stay in the sprinter's lane if you were going fast. Anyway, I say all that to point out that I used an aero but not necessarily stiff front wheel - a Specialized TriSpoke aka HED3, dating back to 1994 or so. I don't know how it would be on a normal track in a sprint. I used that exact front wheel for many years as a front wheel in crits, and it's been good enough. Not great but good enough. In terms of aero a front wheel makes more difference than rear so putting an aero front wheel will help more, and there's a bonus for us road riders. If you have an aero road front wheel you can just put a non-quick-release skewer on and you have a track front wheel. It'll cost you about $20 to have an front track aero wheel. |
#32
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Thanks everyone for all the advice. I asked around at the track and a was told of a lovely gentleman who had something in his shed he wanted gone. After a quick phone call I went for a look and came home with this.
I will probably change the bar tape and get nicer tires once these wear out. When I asked how much he wanted he said he would like to get a hundred for it, that’s Aussie dollars so around 70 USD. No haggling, I’ll take it! Then he included a bag of rear sprockets for free as well. I am pretty sure the Campagnolo Record hubs are worth more than that! There are a couple of small paint chips but she is in great shape! I’m really looking forward to seeing how it goes! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#33
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U got a great deal. Always if you go to the races and you start asking somebody will know somebody that retired and want to move the stuff out.
U did great. Yeah those hubs worth some money, those looks like clincher tires??? I would try to locate a set of tubulars, you will notice the difference big time, specially standing up in the banks or going down the banks fast because tubulars wont deform (depending on the tubular), like for example the cheap vittoria rally 23mm. Same with the 21 mm continental gator skin. Think somebody mention that about clinchers deforming. The other thing is that for 70 bucks you are way ahead to spend in a set of used tubulars that sure somebody should have moving around, ask in the track again :P Envy you, would love to have a track around to come back to the trade...that would really give me incentive to lose weight |
#34
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We are very luck to have an awesome track here! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#35
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i haven't heard of the Mexa X2-T but when I said that every bike company has a decent aluminum track frame with a carbon fork, that's basically exactly what I was thinking of. That right there will suit you for a long time, if it fits, and yes - you got a blistering good deal on it.
Buy a few more chainrings, while you're at it, and since you're racing indoors, put better tires on it asap. Ask around at the track - there may be some guidance on tires. Some surfaces don't work well with multicompound tires that have a 'shoulder' so often people look for tires with a more traditional construction. You can't go wrong with Vittoria Corsas. Enjoy! Track racing is the absolute best, and your track looks gorgeous. |
#36
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Track bike advice
Ok, so now I gave the new whip I have serviced both hubs, they were bone dry but are sweet now. I need new bar tape but can’t decide between white and black, thoughts???? I am thinking of replacing the tires with Veloflex record with latex tubes, any thoughts on them for the track?
I’ll get some carbon tubulars for racing later if I get more serious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by gibbo; 08-05-2020 at 04:56 AM. |
#37
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I would ask in the track for wheels.
Great track u have there, really envy u so much 1st thing I would do there... start riding slower and slower till the bike slips down the banks just to check out the mininum speed and how sticky the track is. Bad customs U get |
#38
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What a perfect scenario. Congrats on the bike and enjoy the track!
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#39
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Yes you made out like a bandit on that bike!
As far as tires go, don't need anything to fancy for training, sticky rubber is likely the most important criteria, don't rely on old hardened tires. On our wooden track in Burnaby, BC, Canada I ride all day every day 20mm, Continental GP 4000, clinchers @ 105 PSI, plenty sticky and will last longer than the compound life of the tire. They will age out before wearing out. In line with what Ultraman wrote, if you intend to age/ability group race consider finding yourself a set of aero carbon tubulars, I use a couple sets, FF, Miche Supertype and a Cormia rear disk all with Continental Sonderklasse II tires, again outstanding on wooden surface tracks. Pretty much my mass start race set up here.
__________________
Marc Sasso A part of the resin revolution! |
#40
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Pretty much my mass start race set up here.
[/QUOTE] That looks the bizniz!!! BC is a great place to live, I lived in Summerland for a couple of years and really enjoyed it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#41
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For 1/16th of the asking price of that Llewellyn you were looking at I think you got the deal of the year. Well done
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#42
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Cheers mate! I have ordered up some new tyres n tubes and bar tape, so all in at $320 I am going to enjoy going in circles I think! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#43
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Quick update on the new toy, here is how she looks now.
Very pleased with the result and I spent a good session on the boards this week, great fun!!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#44
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Looks great
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