Ekar Shifter/hose Question

[Shane4XC]

Building up my first carbon bike I forgot to attach the cable guide to internally route the rear brake and shift cable.

The Ekar shifter is not set up the same way I’m used to from shimano. There’s a weird silver thing:
https://imgur.com/a/uWkN1dI

I’m used to threading the hose into the shifter with a barb and olive.

In my case, I need to remove that silver piece from the hose so I can put on the cable guide and then re-bleed. Is that possible? If it’s not I’ll need to completely take out the internal hose which will require basically dismantling the whole bike.

[Mark McM]

By the "weird silver thing", I guess you're referring to the banjo fitting (attached to the master cylinder by the black torx head bolt)? The banjo can be unbolted from the master cylinder, but the banjo cannot be removed from the hose. Unlike Shimano and SRAM hydraulic hoses, which you usually route from the caliper to the lever, Campagnolo hoses have to be routed from the lever to the caliper.

[Shane4XC]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

By the "weird silver thing", I guess you're referring to the banjo fitting (attached to the master cylinder by the black torx head bolt)? The banjo can be unbolted from the master cylinder, but the banjo cannot be removed from the hose. Unlike Shimano and SRAM hydraulic hoses, which you usually route from the caliper to the lever, Campagnolo hoses have to be routed from the lever to the caliper.

Bummer, I guess I need to decide if I want to take apart the whole bike or add in a dry break. Thanks for the confirmation, the banjo bolt would need to be removed for me to fit the cable guide over it

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by Shane4XC

Building up my first carbon bike I forgot to attach the cable guide to internally route the rear brake and shift cable.

The Ekar shifter is not set up the same way I’m used to from shimano. There’s a weird silver thing:
https://imgur.com/a/uWkN1dI

I’m used to threading the hose into the shifter with a barb and olive.

In my case, I need to remove that silver piece from the hose so I can put on the cable guide and then re-bleed. Is that possible? If it’s not I’ll need to completely take out the internal hose which will require basically dismantling the whole bike.

You thread the olive and barb into the caliper - which is why the caliper is not hooked up to the hose and the hose is hooked up to the shifter. Take apart from the caliper.

[Shane4XC]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

You thread the olive and barb into the caliper - which is why the caliper is not hooked up to the hose and the hose is hooked up to the shifter. Take apart from the caliper.

Taking out the hose from the rear to get the cable guide on would require putting the cable guide on before the hose enters the bike.

That requires taking apart the whole bike and unrouting the internal cables. The cable guide is needed at the front of the bike. Without the guide I’m sure the cables would wear into the carbon.

All in all, I was too hasty in building. Gotta take your time and cross your ts.

[prototoast]

Every cable guide is different. Pictures might help. But to keep things simple, you can disconnect the hose from the brake lever, but you can't disconnect (and reattach) the banjo from the hose.

You can also just cut the hose away from the shifter and splice it back together with a coupler like this: https://www.universalcycles.com/shop....php?id=105419

But that raises questions about how much your time is worth.

[Shane4XC]

Originally Posted by prototoast

Every cable guide is different. Pictures might help. But to keep things simple, you can disconnect the hose from the brake lever, but you can't disconnect (and reattach) the banjo from the hose.

You can also just cut the hose away from the shifter and splice it back together with a coupler like this: https://www.universalcycles.com/shop....php?id=105419

But that raises questions about how much your time is worth.

Yeah, I won’t be sliding this thing over the banjo:
https://imgur.com/a/8XIcOGk

Thanks for the link on that coupler! I was only aware of dry breaking devices, yours are cheaper and I don’t need the ability it break the cable.

The 2 hours it would take to remove cranks, pop out the bottom bracket re-route cables etc… worth $15 and a couple of grams to me.

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by Shane4XC

Taking out the hose from the rear to get the cable guide on would require putting the cable guide on before the hose enters the bike.

That requires taking apart the whole bike and unrouting the internal cables. The cable guide is needed at the front of the bike. Without the guide I’m sure the cables would wear into the carbon.

All in all, I was too hasty in building. Gotta take your time and cross your ts.

Not sure what you mean. Generally hydraulic line "holes" don't have anything - no cable guide. They don't really move much.

Hydraulic hoses are also stiff and the campag ones all come with a "hook" for a cable to be used to pull the hose through any rough areas. But often the can be threaded just fine.

[Shane4XC]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

Not sure what you mean. Generally hydraulic line "holes" don't have anything - no cable guide. They don't really move much.

Hydraulic hoses are also stiff and the campag ones all come with a "hook" for a cable to be used to pull the hose through any rough areas. But often the can be threaded just fine.

Looking at this one might make more sense:
https://imgur.com/a/8XIcOGk

Generally it’s attached to the frame, but since I had the frame clear coated the painter took it off and I forgot to put it on before routing the cables.

Moving the handlebars I can tell the cables will eat into the carbon without it over time.

[JWB475]

Is that an OPEN frame? If so they redesigned that frame port, contact them for the replacement piece. The replacement port allows the cable to move more freely, otherwise you can kink it when turning the bars.

[Shane4XC]

Originally Posted by JWB475

Is that an OPEN frame? If so they redesigned that frame port, contact them for the replacement piece. The replacement port allows the cable to move more freely, otherwise you can kink it when turning the bars.

Nice eye! It’s an open mind. Just contacted them to see if I can get the updated piece before I put it on. Much appreciated