Risking my life?

[NHAero]

I removed a SRAM PC-1071 10s chain from a bike to clean it and the last link fell apart. It was too short to put back (set-up is pushing it - 11-40 cassette and Shimano 9 speed rd with reversed b screw to get clearance) so I spliced in a couple of inches of a KMC 10s chain and a second quick link.

Am I about to suffer a fate worse than death from sudden chain failure?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I removed a SRAM PC-1071 10s chain from a bike to clean it and the last link fell apart. It was too short to put back (set-up is pushing it - 11-40 cassette and Shimano 9 speed rd with reversed b screw to get clearance) so I spliced in a couple of inches of a KMC 10s chain and a second quick link.

Am I about to suffer a fate worse than death from sudden chain failure?

Probably not using a 10s quicklink..that is compatible with both chains..But remember, new KMC 10s chains are really good and really inexpensive..

[NHAero]

Yes, I ordered a couple when this happened and they've just arrived, so I'll change it.

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Probably not using a 10s quicklink..that is compatible with both chains..But remember, new KMC 10s chains are really good and really inexpensive..

[peanutgallery]

chains are cheap (relatively), your solution got you out of a bind but its not the best long term solution

When in doubt, just replace

Might consider grabbing yourself a Park chain checker (CC-2), it helps when you have that unexpected drivetrain decision to make. My rule of thumb:

If it registers, chain only
Just out of range => chain and cassette
Really bad => chain/cassette/chainrings

With the cost of cassettes (SRAM 11/12 xdrive for example) its worth keeping an eye on. On the MTB you can wreck a drivetrain right quick depending on conditions etc. Plus a new chain is a clean chain

[NHAero]

I bought a chain checker when the Pivot 429C arrived three years ago. That cassette retails for $400! I change chains as soon as the 0.5 slips in.

Originally Posted by peanutgallery

chains are cheap (relatively), your solution got you out of a bind but its not the best long term solution

When in doubt, just replace

Might consider grabbing yourself a Park chain checker (CC-2), it helps when you have that unexpected drivetrain decision to make. My rule of thumb:

If it registers, chain only
Just out of range => chain and cassette
Really bad => chain/cassette/chainrings

With the cost of cassettes (SRAM 11/12 xdrive for example) its worth keeping an eye on. On the MTB you can wreck a drivetrain right quick depending on conditions etc. Plus a new chain is a clean chain

[m_sasso]

Adding to the discussion, do people find a dedicated chain checker is as accurate and easier to use than a set of calipers? I use a set of calipers and never felt the need for having another tool and the expense of a chain checker.

[Ronsonic]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I bought a chain checker when the Pivot 429C arrived three years ago. That cassette retails for $400! I change chains as soon as the 0.5 slips in.

Yep. Chains are still pretty cheap. Cassettes are getting more expensive all the time. I clean my chains a lot and replace them without a second thought checking them with a two foot ruler. Eighth of an inch and it's gone.

[kppolich]

I raced SSCX all year on a KMC chain with 2 quick links because I cut the chain too short.

[R3awak3n]

I have had it work good and not work good.

Had a 2 quick link chain that would skip, worked fine at first but after like 200 miles it started skipping around one of the wuick links. I had to put a new quick link in and was fine again.

Have a double quick link in one of my bikes now, working perfectly.