Which size Colnago?

[Dave]

Originally Posted by paredown

Velomine has some complete bikes listed on eBay @ $1399--and only $1199 directly from their web site:
http://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...ndex&cPath=597

I can't pass that up, the order has been placed! Thanks for the info!

I'll be passing along a really good deal on the components.

[Dave]

I received my bright red C-RS on Tuesday morning and just now got it completely finished, with a Campy Chorus group and Zonda wheels. The paint is just what you'd expect from Colnago - very well done. The size was perfect. I had no problem duplicating the fit of my 51cm LOOK KG461, using the same stem length and the same model of seat post. I've got the stem slammed as low as possible on the 48cm frame, but left 10mm of spacer on top of the stem, if some adjustment is needed. The steering tube was already cut fairly short, with 30mm of spacer, from the factory. Colnago supplie a 3 inch long compression plug to support the steering tube, but I opted to replace it with an FSA model.

Th internal cable routing was a bit of a challenge. If I ever need to replace a rear brake cable, I'll tape some string to the end of the cable, before I remove the cable. There is no internal guide tube to make the job easy. I also needed access around the bottom bracket, to get the shift cables in place. The Campy cups weren't in the way, but the original 105 BB would have been.

This is my first bike with a press-fit BB86 bottom bracket. I borrowed the needed tools from a neighbor. Removing the 105 bottom bracket was easy and so was pressing in the new Campy cups. The press-fit bores in the frame are CF, not aluminum bonded to the CF frame. I'm glad that I read up on the use of loctite 609 before installing the cups. I used grease and won't resort to the loctite unless I have a cup problem. Since the Campy cups are aluminum, it's possible to bond the cups in so well that they can't be removed. If you have delrin or other plastic around the BB bearings, the loctite won't stick to the plastic and will only serve as a gap filler.

[phcollard]

Hey Dave I'm happy you like the bike and the unbuild/build went fine.

So how does it ride?

And what? No pics?

As far as I am concerned I missed the boat. I agonized for too long over geometry and when I was finally ready the last 52s in black was gone. Boohoo.

[Dave]

I plan to give the bike it's first full ride on Saturday. Since I'm now 65, I've been off the bike for 8 years and only logged 400 miles in the last month, I have to rest about 2 days between hard climbing rides. I'm still in the process of gaining some strength and endurance. I've worrked my way up to a 32 mile ride, which doesn't sound like much, but I ride from my house to Horsetooth Reservoir and partially around the lake, where the climbs are steeper than I ever did in the mountains.

The frame sure has a big downtube and some beefy chainstays. It looks a lot stouter than my old KG 461 and it's quite a bit lighter.

[paredown]

Originally Posted by Dave

I plan to give the bike it's first full ride on Saturday. Since I'm now 65, I've been off the bike for 8 years and only logged 400 miles in the last month, I have to rest about 2 days between hard climbing rides. I'm still in the process of gaining some strength and endurance. I've worrked my way up to a 32 mile ride, which doesn't sound like much, but I ride from my house to Horsetooth Reservoir and partially around the lake, where the climbs are steeper than I ever did in the mountains.

The frame sure has a big downtube and some beefy chainstays. It looks a lot stouter than my old KG 461 and it's quite a bit lighter.

Can't wait for the ride report. I still admire the one that's left that's my size.

[Dave]

I decided to take the C-RS out for a 20 miler today because tomorrow's weather report looks questionable. I'm pleased with the bike. It's very stable, as you would expect with Colnago's usually large trail. The bottom bracket and new Chorus crank make for a stiff combination that works well for climbing out of the saddle. I rode as slowly a 6 mph up one hill and had no problems holding a straight line. I didn't go to the big hills where I often descend up to 45 mph, but I've got no doubt that the bike wil be stable at those speeds. I'm anxious for more, but my old body isn't.

I've got all new parts on the bike, but used a lot of the same parts that I did 10 years ago. I have three leftover Fizik Gobi saddles that I picked up, probably 10 years ago, right after a redesign ruined the new model for me.

The stem is a Ritchey 4-axis, 110mm with a -6 degree angle. I had been using a -17, but decided that my old body needed a little higher bar.

The post is an FSA with 25mm of setback and the 2-bolt rocker style clamp that allow very fine angle adjustment.

Bars are Easton EC-70 carbon, that are quite a bit cheaper than the EC-90.

The bar tape is my favorite Deda that really is about 10 years old. I had two rolls of red and two rolls of black that I bought sometime before 2010.

[paredown]

Originally Posted by Dave

I decided to take the C-RS out for a 20 miler today because tomorrow's weather report looks questionable. I'm pleased with the bike. It's very stable, as you would expect with Colnago's usually large trail. The bottom bracket and new Chorus crank make for a stiff combination that works well for climbing out of the saddle. I rode as slowly a 6 mph up one hill and had no problems holding a straight line. I didn't go to the big hills where I often descend up to 45 mph, but I've got no doubt that the bike wil be stable at those speeds. I'm anxious for more, but my old body isn't.

I've got all new parts on the bike, but used a lot of the same parts that I did 10 years ago. I have three leftover Fizik Gobi saddles that I picked up, probably 10 years ago, right after a redesign ruined the new model for me.

The stem is a Ritchey 4-axis, 110mm with a -6 degree angle. I had been using a -17, but decided that my old body needed a little higher bar.

The post is an FSA with 25mm of setback and the 2-bolt rocker style clamp that allow very fine angle adjustment.

Bars are Easton EC-70 carbon, that are quite a bit cheaper than the EC-90.

The bar tape is my favorite Deda that really is about 10 years old. I had two rolls of red and two rolls of black that I bought sometime before 2010.

Looks great--and sounds like it's a nice ride without dropping a whole lot of cash.

[Dave]

I notice that Colorado Cyclist has a good deal on the C-RS with Ultegra group in sizes up to 54cm.

The only complaint I have with mine is the location of the cable stop for internally routing the rear brake cable. It's on the right side of the head tube, rather than the left which makes for a short and abrupt route from the bars. Changing stem lengths without a change to the rear brake cable and housing is unlikely. My old LOOK KG461 has a stop on the left side of the top tube, that works a lot better.

[soulspinner]

Originally Posted by Dave

I decided to take the C-RS out for a 20 miler today because tomorrow's weather report looks questionable. I'm pleased with the bike. It's very stable, as you would expect with Colnago's usually large trail. The bottom bracket and new Chorus crank make for a stiff combination that works well for climbing out of the saddle. I rode as slowly a 6 mph up one hill and had no problems holding a straight line. I didn't go to the big hills where I often descend up to 45 mph, but I've got no doubt that the bike wil be stable at those speeds. I'm anxious for more, but my old body isn't.

I've got all new parts on the bike, but used a lot of the same parts that I did 10 years ago. I have three leftover Fizik Gobi saddles that I picked up, probably 10 years ago, right after a redesign ruined the new model for me.

The stem is a Ritchey 4-axis, 110mm with a -6 degree angle. I had been using a -17, but decided that my old body needed a little higher bar.

The post is an FSA with 25mm of setback and the 2-bolt rocker style clamp that allow very fine angle adjustment.

Bars are Easton EC-70 carbon, that are quite a bit cheaper than the EC-90.

The bar tape is my favorite Deda that really is about 10 years old. I had two rolls of red and two rolls of black that I bought sometime before 2010.

Glad you are back in the saddle and here on Paceline. I valued your posts and learned a lot from you.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Dave

I notice that Colorado Cyclist has a good deal on the C-RS with Ultegra group in sizes up to 54cm.

The only complaint I have with mine is the location of the cable stop for internally routing the rear brake cable. It's on the right side of the head tube, rather than the left which makes for a short and abrupt route from the bars. Changing stem lengths without a change to the rear brake cable and housing is unlikely. My old LOOK KG461 has a stop on the left side of the top tube, that works a lot better.

Probably on the right because it's not 'tubed' in the top tube but 2 holes and if it were on the left side of the top tube, it would rattle against the tube. Same for Spec-ed...same gig...

[Black Dog]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Probably on the right because it's not 'tubed' in the top tube but 2 holes and if it were on the left side of the top tube, it would rattle against the tube. Same for Spec-ed...same gig...

And trek and Canondale and.....

[Dave]

I watched a video review on the C-RS recently. The owner noted a problem with the seat post clamp, where the clamp bolt was damaging the clamp. I checked mine out more closely. The slotted hole where the clamp bolt goes through is wider than necessary and the machined recess for the allen head bolt is too narrow for a decent sized washer. The provided washer on mine was no larger than the M5 bolt head.

To prevent eventual damage to the clamp, I made new washers to spread out the load on the clamp. Number 8 stainless steel washers from home depot have a hole that's just big enough for an M5 bolt. I filed parallel flats on both sides of a washer to make an oval shape that barely fits into the bolt head recess and and used two of these modified washers, since one is not thick enough to avoid cupping.

Here's a link to the review, skip to about 2:40 to see the clamp problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8Qzz2iC6hE

[phcollard]

Hey!

Sorry to bump that old thread but I just noticed Merlin has 2019 CRS frames in most sizes for about CA$ 1300.

That's $ 995 in real money

https://www.merlincycles.com/colnago...19-168970.html

[Dave]

Bike Exchange has more C-RS options at only $700, plus $45 shipping. Seems like a steal.

https://www.bikeexchange.com/a/road-...e-hs/116164254