Wheels for an Ottrott - Rider at 210 lbs.

[BAL]

When I have my brake pads set at the "normal" distance from the rim, I get brake rub as I am standing on the pedals and powering uphill. Basically I can hear the rear rim hit the pad and it does so with the pedal downstroke so I assume the wheel under my weight is flexing outward enough to scrap the pad. In order to avoid this brake rub I open the brake pad about 1/2 way on the adjustment lever and this usually gets rid of the problem. Of course that means I have to pull the brake levers just a bit more to get the braking I need going downhill.

The good news is my Zipp 404's with about 3,000 miles on them are still relatively true. I have noticed with the rear hub adjusted per the Zipp recommendations and with the bike in the bike stand (no load on the wheel) the wheel does have what I would consider a good bit of looseness. As I push on the rim/tire side to side I can see and feel a good bit of play. I have been told this is normal and that will the wheel loaded this play is not a problem. I do wonder if this play is partly responsible for my brake rub problem.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by BAL

When I have my brake pads set at the "normal" distance from the rim, I get brake rub as I am standing on the pedals and powering uphill. Basically I can hear the rear rim hit the pad and it does so with the pedal downstroke so I assume the wheel under my weight is flexing outward enough to scrap the pad. In order to avoid this brake rub I open the brake pad about 1/2 way on the adjustment lever and this usually gets rid of the problem. Of course that means I have to pull the brake levers just a bit more to get the braking I need going downhill.

The good news is my Zipp 404's with about 3,000 miles on them are still relatively true. I have noticed with the rear hub adjusted per the Zipp recommendations and with the bike in the bike stand (no load on the wheel) the wheel does have what I would consider a good bit of looseness. As I push on the rim/tire side to side I can see and feel a good bit of play. I have been told this is normal and that will the wheel loaded this play is not a problem. I do wonder if this play is partly responsible for my brake rub problem.

Since the hubs have an adjustment plate and can be adjusted while in the frame(QR tight), there should be NO 'play' or looseness of the hub. Whomever told you this was normal is incorrect.

Intertesting you say they are 'relatively true'..so they need to be trued. I guess for the other poster, they are not up to spec, since they require truing, in spite of being a wheelouttabox and their other 'benefits'.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Blah blah. Folks 'in the know'.....lol.

EVERY time someone asks for wheel recommendations, someone always chimes in with "Well, all you need is a good hub and an aluminum rim and a super experienced builder...."

OK, yes, if your goal is to simply have a reliable and repairable wheel, then yes, all you need is a set of Ultegra hubs, DT spokes, and just about any set of aluminum rims you can find. I own a set myself (DA hubs, Mavic Mach2 rims). They are a great go to wheel for my rides in bad weather, indoor trainer, etc.
For my general road riding and racing, I (and a lot of others) get much more enjoyment out of riding a nice set of carbon aero wheels. So do a lot of my friends. None of us have ever been 'stranded' because of our wheels.

There is nothing wrong with a standard set of wheels.....but don't push them on other people with false info.

A little rough there don't you think? The OP asked for opinions but I guess since you're king of the forum you can just tell everyone else to shut up?

I've seen plenty of trouble from high zoot wheels and long faces on the riders when wonder wheel lets 'em down. Don't be a wheel whiner.

Oh, and don't push YOUR false info on other people.

[whforrest]

Good posts here................

Last year I purchased Ambrosio nemisis on campy black hubs...........riding 700-22 continental competition tubulars, (next set of tubulars going to 25) everytime I look down to my wheels, tubulars and rims I have a slight grin...............I haven't ridden tubulars since the 80's and I'm lovin it. I have a 3 part system for training with tubulars 1) vittoria pit stop is in my jersey 2) I also put some liquid in the tubular 3) I have a tubular spare under my saddle with a leather toe strap.

I couldn't be happier. i enjoy spending time in the garage working on my bike, it's like cooking a good meal for the family.

I am also looking at the zipp 303 tubulars with larger spoke count in the front wheel. Like them or not their performance at roubaix the last 2 years have been amazing!

remember a few years ago carbon rims were not compatible with the cobbles.

so many riders invest in amazing wheels and don't ride them enough.......

now;l that i am training, watching my weight and putting skin in the game I may get a bigger return on investment by purchasing some sweet wheels during competition.

i appreciate the local wheel builder and a company like zipp,

keep riding those 404 tubulars, im sure it looks sweet and it makes you a bit faster............

happy riding!

Bill

[oldguy00]

Originally Posted by HenryA

A little rough there don't you think? The OP asked for opinions but I guess since you're king of the forum you can just tell everyone else to shut up?

I've seen plenty of trouble from high zoot wheels and long faces on the riders when wonder wheel lets 'em down. Don't be a wheel whiner.

Oh, and don't push YOUR false info on other people.

My bad.
Carbon wheels are a complete waste, and are used by customers who know nothing about what makes a real bicycle wheel and are fooled by marketing.
Anyone who weighs more than 150, and thinks that it is safe to venture more the 5km from home with carbon wheels, is not in the know.
For the record, I am not king of the forum, and HenryA is much more in the know than me.......

Henry....You're taking my comments a little too serious.
Like I said, the type of wheel you are recommending, yes, we all know they work great (really). But to say:
"those of us in the know".....well, I guess you don't think much of the people using carbon (if I were to take you too seriously...............................)
I am far from the 'expert' on all thinks 'biking'. I only speak from what I have experienced and witnessed. In 20 years of riding I've never seen someone stranded due to a failed wheel carbon wheel. Not many of them fail 'a la spinergy rev-x'.
Time for a drink.

[endosch2]

OldPotato as you said "I think for that $1000(since you mentioned Mavic), you could get a better hub, no aluminum spokes, no propriatary parts that mavic won't support in the future(26h Helium front). "




Is anyone who rides a lot really concerned that Mavic does not make servicable parts for a 12 year old hub? I dont care myself, after 12 years I am OK with buying a new hub or wheel for that matter. I said in my post, 5 years of NO service on factory made wheels, I have gotten my moneys worth out of my mavic wheels so if in another few years they stop making spokes for my 2007 Ksyrium SLs with aluminum spokes, I wont be crying at all since I will have used them for about 15000 miles, and I think I got a fair deal. I have two bikes, that is it, I ride them, and when I wear something out because I used the snot out of it I am happy to replace it with something new. I dont have a fleet of 12 brand new lugged framed retro grouch bikes where I am trying to maintain a garage museum of past bike technology.

We are all different, that is my philosophy, I totally respect the garage bike museum thing but it does not really do it for me.

[HenryA]

For oldguy00--

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by endosch2

OldPotato as you said "I think for that $1000(since you mentioned Mavic), you could get a better hub, no aluminum spokes, no propriatary parts that mavic won't support in the future(26h Helium front). "




Is anyone who rides a lot really concerned that Mavic does not make servicable parts for a 12 year old hub? I dont care myself, after 12 years I am OK with buying a new hub or wheel for that matter. I said in my post, 5 years of NO service on factory made wheels, I have gotten my moneys worth out of my mavic wheels so if in another few years they stop making spokes for my 2007 Ksyrium SLs with aluminum spokes, I wont be crying at all since I will have used them for about 15000 miles, and I think I got a fair deal. I have two bikes, that is it, I ride them, and when I wear something out because I used the snot out of it I am happy to replace it with something new. I dont have a fleet of 12 brand new lugged framed retro grouch bikes where I am trying to maintain a garage museum of past bike technology.

We are all different, that is my philosophy, I totally respect the garage bike museum thing but it does not really do it for me.

Ok fair enough but back to mavic wheels, instead of their $1000 wheel...

DA/Record/DT hub, rim, stainless steel spokes. Better hubs, same performance, take the $300 or you saved and buy something else.

[oldguy00]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Ok fair enough but back to mavic wheels, instead of their $1000 wheel...

DA/Record/DT hub, rim, stainless steel spokes. Better hubs, same performance, take the $300 or you saved and buy something else.

When it comes to performance, speed, etc., I agree, handbuilts will essentially be just as good. But it is fun to ride nice carbon wheels.

But in Henry and oldpotatoes defence, handbuilts can be pretty sexy too:

http://luxewheelworks.blogspot.com/2...ic-reflex.html

And to the OP, you might want to watch bonktown too.....some great deals on Dura Ace pre-builts, Cosmic Carbone SLRs (this would be my choice for you), and various Reynolds wheels. Any would likely hold up just fine for you.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

snipped...........

But in Henry and oldpotatoes defence, handbuilts can be pretty sexy too:

http://luxewheelworks.blogspot.com/2...ic-reflex.html

snipped

Almost -exactly- what I ride.