Wheels for an Ottrott - Rider at 210 lbs.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Boring!
He wouldn't be riding Zipps if he wanted a 'standard' wheel.

Not boring except that you get to ride your bike instead of worrying with wheel problems. Good boring.

And then there's the part where many folks-in-the-know recognize a fine set of high end hand built wheels on nice hubs to be waaaay more desirable than any "marketing award winning" aero/rocket science/ultralight/shiny graphics/matte black wheelset.

[oldguy00]

Originally Posted by HenryA

Not boring except that you get to ride your bike instead of worrying with wheel problems. Good boring.

And then there's the part where many folks-in-the-know recognize a fine set of high end hand built wheels on nice hubs to be waaaay more desirable than any "marketing award winning" aero/rocket science/ultralight/shiny graphics/matte black wheelset.

Blah blah. Folks 'in the know'.....lol.

EVERY time someone asks for wheel recommendations, someone always chimes in with "Well, all you need is a good hub and an aluminum rim and a super experienced builder...."

OK, yes, if your goal is to simply have a reliable and repairable wheel, then yes, all you need is a set of Ultegra hubs, DT spokes, and just about any set of aluminum rims you can find. I own a set myself (DA hubs, Mavic Mach2 rims). They are a great go to wheel for my rides in bad weather, indoor trainer, etc.
For my general road riding and racing, I (and a lot of others) get much more enjoyment out of riding a nice set of carbon aero wheels. So do a lot of my friends. None of us have ever been 'stranded' because of our wheels.

There is nothing wrong with a standard set of wheels.....but don't push them on other people with false info.

[fjaws]

Search the forum. I believe it was Tootall that posted links to some good info w/ photos on how to fold a spare tire.

Basically, you'll need to carry a spare tire. Some prefer previously glued ones so they'll have a bit of glue already on them. You'll have to remove the punctured tire, which may be a bit of work depending on how well it was glued and how long it's been on, and replace it with the spare that you're carrying. With or without glue on the spare, once installed and inflated it'll get you home safely as long as you're not carving the corners on your favorite 40+ mph descent. Once you get it home, glue up another tire.

Alternatively, use your cell phone and skip straight to glue up another tire.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Blah blah. Folks 'in the know'.....lol.

EVERY time someone asks for wheel recommendations, someone always chimes in with "Well, all you need is a good hub and an aluminum rim and a super experienced builder...."

OK, yes, if your goal is to simply have a reliable and repairable wheel, then yes, all you need is a set of Ultegra hubs, DT spokes, and just about any set of aluminum rims you can find. I own a set myself (DA hubs, Mavic Mach2 rims). They are a great go to wheel for my rides in bad weather, indoor trainer, etc.
For my general road riding and racing, I (and a lot of others) get much more enjoyment out of riding a nice set of carbon aero wheels. So do a lot of my friends. None of us have ever been 'stranded' because of our wheels.

There is nothing wrong with a standard set of wheels.....but don't push them on other people with false info.

Glad you have not been stranded but more than a little of my wheel work is truing or repairing wheels and a lot of them are carbon. A wheelset that weighs 1100-1200 grams for a .1 offa ton rider and how reliable they are compared to a wheelset better designed for that same .1 offa ton rider is not false info.

The marketing of how much 400 grams effects the performance of a 90,000+ gram rider is the false info.

If ya like your carbon wheels, good for you but like they say, no such thing as a free lunch.

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by fjaws

Alternatively, use your cell phone and skip straight to glue up another tire.

The European 'taxi tire' solution - nice!

[fjaws]

Originally Posted by spartacus

The European 'taxi tire' solution - nice!

Not MY personal choice, but it is 2010 almost '11 so it has to be said.

[djg]

Originally Posted by spartacus

What's a good source of information for 'how to' with tubulars? I've always been tempted, but...... no knowledge of how to.

What's does one do when puncturing a tubular 20 miles from home?

Likely you can find some good information just by doing a search on this board. I think that the Park Tools web site is a decent place to look too.

A puncture on the road? If it's small, it might be taken care of with sealant. I've had decent luck with Vittoria pit stop, but others have reported mixed results. There are other choices.

If it's big, or there's a bigger problem with the tire, you pull the tire, install a spare tire (which you had under your saddle), inflate, and ride. It's possible to repair a tire on the road (or on the side of the road) if you have a tubular patch kit, but it takes some time.

[BAL]

Thanks to all for the comments on my original posting. I appreciate the thoughts on the tubular option; but, it seems to me staying with clinchers is the choice for me.

I will likely buy a set of custom wheels designed for my specific riding situation and weight and the wheels will likely have a higher spoke count.

Does anyone have a comment on what I might notice as a change in my riding experience going from the 16 front and 20 rear spoke count of the Zipp 404's to a wheel set with a higher spoke count be it either alum or carbon rims? Would I notice any difference in ride quality?

[endosch2]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Glad you have not been stranded but more than a little of my wheel work is truing or repairing wheels and a lot of them are carbon. A wheelset that weighs 1100-1200 grams for a .1 offa ton rider and how reliable they are compared to a wheelset better designed for that same .1 offa ton rider is not false info.

The marketing of how much 400 grams effects the performance of a 90,000+ gram rider is the false info.

If ya like your carbon wheels, good for you but like they say, no such thing as a free lunch.

I dont really buy the endless drivel about how great old school wheels are. The reason the old wheels are so servicable is because they need service a lot. Since riding pre-built mavic and reynolds wheels I have never touched a wheel for anything in the last 5 seasons. My spoked retro grouchy wheels need a truing all the time. I really wish people would quit suggesting that pre-made wheels are just about marketing, there is a real benefit to them.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by endosch2

I dont really buy the endless drivel about how great old school wheels are. The reason the old wheels are so servicable is because they need service a lot. Since riding pre-built mavic and reynolds wheels I have never touched a wheel for anything in the last 5 seasons. My spoked retro grouchy wheels need a truing all the time. I really wish people would quit suggesting that pre-made wheels are just about marketing, there is a real benefit to them.

http://www.menswearhouse.com

http://www.wwchan.com/

" The reason the old wheels are so servicable is because they need service a lot."

Really?

I'm .1 offa ton and never true my wheels..old school as they are.

I think for that $1000(since you mentioned Mavic), you could get a better hub, no aluminum spokes, no propriatary parts that mavic won't support in the future(26h Helium front).

For that (put lots of $ here) Reynolds, it ought to stay true.

I'm tapping outta this one tho.

[oldguy00]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

http://www.menswearhouse.com

http://www.wwchan.com/

Excellent point.......you can buy a $300 wheelset with parts that have been around for 20 years (like those boring suits), or you can pay big $$ and get a sweet pair of 'Harry Rosen' bling carbon wheels.

I like your style.

[staggerwing]

Originally Posted by BAL

Does anyone have a comment on what I might notice as a change in my riding experience going from the 16 front and 20 rear spoke count of the Zipp 404's to a wheel set with a higher spoke count be it either alum or carbon rims? Would I notice any difference in ride quality?

If you stand to crunch a hill, you might notice the higher spoke count wheels feeling a little more solid underfoot. I'm right around 200, and really only cycle for commuting and fun, I've had some lower spoke count wheels rub the brakes under heavy load. Not inspiring in the least.

As far as overall ride quality, buy a quality tire, and fine tune by playing around with air pressure. I run a 28mm front and 32mm rear on my commuter, and even at my weight, only run 85-90 psi. My more fun rig has PR2's in 25, which are positively cloud like at 95 psi, even on a stout wheel set.

Oldpotatoes comments about carbon tubies make a ton of sense. A tubular rim is a closed box section, which from an engineering perspective, is extremely strong for a given weight of material. The open-C shape of a clincher, is a far less efficient use of material. A similar strength clincher wheel set will certainly be heavier than a tubular set.

Dream set for me would be mid-section, carbon tubulars, 24f/28r (maybe 28f/32r, if I was feeling less confident/more reasonable), on White Industry hubs with C-xray spokes and either 25mm Conti Competitions or 24mm Vittoria Corsa EVO CG Paves.

[jeo99]

I do not ride carbon as I cannot stand the noise everytime I cross a seam in the road! We got a lot of seams, cracks and holes in MI! When riding in a group it sounds like a herd of buffalo coming. IMHO
I do like tubbies, just not on carbon.

[Pete Serotta]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Glad you have not been stranded but more than a little of my wheel work is truing or repairing wheels and a lot of them are carbon. A wheelset that weighs 1100-1200 grams for a .1 offa ton rider and how reliable they are compared to a wheelset better designed for that same .1 offa ton rider is not false info.

The marketing of how much 400 grams effects the performance of a 90,000+ gram rider is the false info.

If ya like your carbon wheels, good for you but like they say, no such thing as a free lunch.

and nothing is ever free....... how true!!!


PETE

[tribuddha]

hey I'm one of those big guys.. 6-5 240# and I have zipp 202 on my Classique..
and I stand and hammer on the hills ( cmon I'm 240 freakin pounds!!)
how would I know if my brakes are rubbing?? would I hear it or feel it?? I have the same question about the frame.. big boy tubing etc but I have read on this forum that a bike that is too compliant might have a sloppy rear end and the chain might rub?? would I hear or feel that??
thanks for the help..