Rear wheel will not stay put

[makoti]

What do I have to do to get my rear wheel to stop sliding in the dropouts? Horizontal, with the little screws in them. Two different wheels (recently. This has happened before), skewers sets, hub types. I thought I had them pretty cranked down, but three times in the last two rides, they have slipped so that the tire rubbed the paint off the left chainstay before I caught it. (Freshly painted bike. Not happy). In between slips, I adjusted the screw on the left side to make that side sit out more, thinking that that would limit how far the wheel could slide on that side. Didn't work. I need two hands to get the QR loose it's so tight.
Suggestions?

[93legendti]

Loctite?

[11.4]

Are the faces of the stay ends scarred up? It doesn't take much, and some of those stay ends were made from pretty soft metal. If they have much in the way of gouges and such, your wheel can slide.

Are your quick releases decent quality? More than a few modern quick releases are designed for vertical dropouts where there is less tendency to move, and that's especially true if you got ultralight ones or some of the QRs that some wheel manufacturers brand and supply. You really need a Campy or Dura Ace quick release with horizontal dropouts. Some of the extra light ones, budget ones, etc. don't have any grip on the outside of the stay end and some don't have the leverage to clamp down enough to prevent the hub locknut from sliding on the inside of the stay end.

Is your rear end spaced for the hub you're using? If your hub is different from the stay end, it's hard to get it clamped properly because the frame is working against you.

Any chance you have a loose hub locknut (just inside the stay end)? If one came loose, it can rotate just a little after your quick release is clamped down and loosen everything up. Improbable since you tried two different wheels, but just thinking about possibilities here.

I'm betting you have some lighter-duty quick releases that can't clamp well enough. Or do you have any problem getting them tight? You aren't supposed to be snapping them, but old horizontal stay ends did take a bit more pressure than modern vertical ones.

[thirdgenbird]

What quick release are you using?

[malcolm]

Old school forward facing horizontal drop outs need as 11.4 has suggested good old school campy or dura ace skewers.

[makoti]

Skewers: Reynolds Ti one on, Salsa on the other (was actually a MTB skewer I got years ago. Trimmed it to fit. Ti as well). Neither is what I would think of as designed for lightness first. I don't have a problem getting them snog & even after it has slipped, it feels just as tight.
The bike is 12 years old, but I have always had Campy 10 on it. It was built for that. Now running 11, but it's the same.
The faces... do you mean the inside face of the dropout? I've never noticed any scarring. I'll look more closely.
I think I've got an old Campy rear skewer laying around. Maybe I'll give that a whirl.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by malcolm

Old school forward facing horizontal drop outs need as 11.4 has suggested good old school campy or dura ace skewers.

You've got it now.

[thirdgenbird]

Originally Posted by makoti

Skewers: Reynolds Ti one on, Salsa on the other (was actually a MTB skewer I got years ago. Trimmed it to fit. Ti as well). Neither is what I would think of as designed for lightness first. I don't have a problem getting them snog & even after it has slipped, it feels just as tight.
The bike is 12 years old, but I have always had Campy 10 on it. It was built for that. Now running 11, but it's the same.
The faces... do you mean the inside face of the dropout? I've never noticed any scarring. I'll look more closely.
I think I've got an old Campy rear skewer laying around. Maybe I'll give that a whirl.

Don't both of those skewers have alloy faces? Maybe even smooth alloy faces.

Put the canpagnolo skewer in. I bet it sorts the issue.

[christian]

Those are crap skewers. Dura-Ace or Record.

[bobswire]

If the dropouts were painted also that is probably the main culprit. Had that happen with a freshly painted frame of mine. I took out my Dremel and carefully grinded off the paint on the dropouts, that fixed the problem.

[wallymann]

as others have said, record/DA skewer will solve this problem. honestly, any older skewer made of steel (both shaft and ends) should do the trick -- but why not get the good stuff?!

i've wondered about ways to get a lighter ti/al skewer to work. i'm debating putting a dash of sand on the clamping-faces of the alloy ends, to give them half-a-chance to bite into chromed steel dropouts. heck, maybe even a spritz of carbo-paste will do the same.

[ceolwulf]

The only thing I found to work was the steel skewer that came with my trainer.

[cmbicycles]

If those are alloy skewers, the knurling/teeth on the skewer faces are possibly worn down a bit and dont bite well anymore. As mentioned, any decent steel internal cam skewer with good teeth on them should do the trick.

Sent from my SCH-S738C using Tapatalk

[makoti]

Ok, looked around and this is what I have right now. I figure that from the sounds of it, any would be better, but which should I try first?
Campy with a cutout in the lever
Campy with what would be the cutout filled in (anyone know what these are?)
Mavic silver pre-2000 (likely pre-1995)
Mavic black that came with my Ksyriums back in 2000

Thanks. Nice to know it isn't TOTALLY operator error.

[jds108]

If you take a look at a Dura Ace skewer you can see that the inside surface of the nut is steel whereas the rest of the nut is aluminum. That steel has some sharp teeth that'll bite into your dropouts and thus prevent slipping. Some of the cheaper Shimano skewers don't have the steel insert in the nut. Not sure which Campy skewers have or don't have this steel insert.