Details, Alps tour, first week of September - photos added

[velotel]

Details for the first tour, week of 2-9 September. I’ve already modified things since the introduction that I previously posted. Not easy deciding what to ride, too many good roads, not enough time. Really needs to be a 10-12 day trip but not everyone has that kind of time so...

Dropped riding Col des Gondrans above Briançon. Shuttle into Italy instead to ride the road that has to be done, the Strada dell’Assieta, a stunning dirt road on a high ridge that never drops below 2300 meters in 23 K and never below 2000 meters in 33 K! A long day but what the hell, we only live once and this puppy is a prize to be treasured.

Day 1, 2 September, collect people at the airport, shuttle to Hotel Alliey in Monetièr-les-Bains, a wonderful hotel in a classic french mountain village. Old building thoroughly redone inside including a spa with water from one of the village’s natural hot springs. Bikes set-up, time to ride, the celebrated Col du Galibier, 2642 meters, fourth highest paved col in France. Up this south side is one of my favourites, up and down, a glorious ride. Paved all the way so slightly out of synch with the tour’s spirit but really, a have-to ride and there it is right above our hotel, the perfect prologue. Besides, that’s what the tour is all about, fat-tired road bikes doing it all.

Day 2, shuttle over Col de Montgenèvre into Italy, over Colle di Sestriere, down to our hotel near Pragelato. On the bikes, back up to Colle di Sestriere, 9 K, 430 vertical meters away. Turn onto the Strada dell’Assieta, climb from 2000 meters to 2450 meters then down slightly to Colle Basset, 2424 meters. Fast 5 K after that, mostly slight descent, with moments of steepness. Up again, over a hill, down a bit, up again, some rudeness at times, onto a hill and we’re back at 2500 meters. Short, steep descent into a fast traverse and we’re at the second col, Colle Blegier, 2381 meters. Fast rolling for a bit then up again onto a ridge just over 2500 meters high and on to Colle Lauson, 2497 meters. And on and on, that’s the Strada dell’Assieta, a crazy romp across the heights on the ridge between the Sestriere and Susa/Oulx valleys. Eventually we’re on the Colle dell’Assietta, 2472 meters, and the start of a long downward glide. Or we do a fantastic option here, entails more climbing followed by a pretty insane single-track across cliffs and steep slopes down to Colle del Finestre, 2178 meters. Not for anyone afraid of heights but crazily enough totally ridable, a spectacular trail like something you may never ever ride again, if we do it. We’ll see when we get there. At last the dirt ends and, if we didn’t do the trail, we do the climb to Colle del Finestre, check the views, turn around, drop down and back to the hotel. Around 65-70 K, with 1800+ vertical, 2100 with the mad trail. A day that will reign supreme in your bike memory bank.

Day 3, shuttle over Sestriere and down to our hotel in Oulx. Could ride there but next up is a massive climb, the road to Colle del Sommellier. A spinner to Bardonecchia, then up for 26 K, 1711 vertical meters (5613 ft), sustained climbing to damn near 3000 meters, average grade 6,5%, which is of course deceiving. There’s a K down low not far off flat, a 3 K section up higher not far off flat, and a K up high that’s all but flat. Balancing those are extended moments of pure rudeness, half a K down low at 10% followed by 2 K at 9% and a K about halfway up at over 12%! Otherwise it’s your basic steady, working class climb on 7-8% grades. The first 5-6 K or so are paved, barely, and the rest packed dirt, which might kick those grades up by 1-2% since dirt is always harder than asphalt. A wonderfully pleasant climb in a remarkable setting of high peaks and ridges. And once again much of the day with hardly a tree in sight, pedaling through a world of minerals. Could be a huge temperature difference between the bottom and the top; 3000 meters is high for the Alps. But if it’s a day of blue skies and hot sun, the summit is going to be a place to hang out. Then the descent, on and on and on. As tiring as the climb, just different muscles. The flat spots will be appreciated with exuberance. Another exceptional ride, around 75 K and 2100 vertical (47 miles, 6890 ft).

Day 4, another big climb, Colle della Finestre, summit 2178 (7145 ft), lowest of the tour but second most vertical, 1694 (5557 ft), 17 less than Sommellier but steeper, average grade, 9,1% ! No flat spots. Kind of nuts but it’s an almost constant grade, fluctuating between maybe as low as 8%, rarely, up to 10%. And then to make life interesting, the last 8 K are dirt. Instantly ups the strain factor. I love this road! Something like 44 switchbacks, not sure on the count because I lose track counting them. And a ton of them are what I call stackbacks, switchbacks stacked up one right above another! Most of the climb is in a gorgeous forest of melèzes (larch in english), looks like a fir only the needles turn orange in late September - October and fall to the ground. Beautiful color, some year I’m going to get over there in the late fall and ride through them. The road’s a work of art, a vertical sculpture up the side of a mountain, beautifully hand-laid rock support walls, graceful turns sweeping up in a smooth, linked rhythm, mostly a one-laner with wide spots for passing. The only rest stops are the switchbacks themselves where the grades most of the time are slightly easier than the traverses. The last 2,5 K are pretty much killer, with half a K at 10% and the last half K at 9,5%. Fantastic views, magnificent climb, and way fun descent. Given what we’ve done the previous days, this is almost a rest day believe it or not. We’ll do a shuttle to and from Susa so it’s only a 40 or so K ride, with 1700 vertical. Oddly enough it rides easier than the numbers suggest, or at least on the blacktop. A classic.

Wednesday, day 5, one of my all time top rides, maybe my best of the best, the climb to Colle Blegier, 2381 meters, and the Strada dell’Assieta. Not so long with only 1350 vertical meters (4430 ft) but it’s sustained all the way and almost all double-track! In other words it’d hard and often technically challenging, which really sets it apart. All this in a gorgeous forest of mixed deciduous and firs and pines down low and melèze up above. Once upon a time way back it was a road, never paved, a 4x4 track subtly bladed out of the slopes. Probably only used by local hunters and wood cutters. Then they created a park and the road was closed to traffic, except for local wood cutters, and with that it slowly evolved into this beautiful double-track up the mountain. And it’s perfectly ridable the whole way up. At least in theory. My low gear, a 34/29, wasn’t low enough for my strength so I walked a few short sections while thinking that with a 34/32 I’d still be riding, maybe. A glorious climb up through a silence that’s like this texture you feel yourself sliding through. I doubt we’ll see another soul from the time we head into the woods at the bottom to the time we arrive on the col where we turn left on the Strada dell’Assieta and ride to Colle Lauson. Single-track time again, working our way across and down the mountain, eventually crossing the trail we came up on, then onto a road, dirt at first, then asphalt, across and down to Saux d’Oulx then Oulx. Another somewhat easy day, all things being relative, with only 40-some K and maybe 1650 vertical (5413 ft). The climb’s definitely not easy but it’s such a pleasure that it doesn’t seem nearly as hard as it is. If I lived over there, I’d ride it regularly.

Day 6, the return to France. Ride to Bardonecchia, up to Col de l’Echelle, 1762 meters though the high spot is 1779, (5780 – 5837 ft), down to Névache, up the valley, all so far on blacktop. Turn left and we’re in dirt city, roads, double-tracks, and finally a single-track to Col de Buffère, 2427 meters (7962 ft). Below is the Guisane Valley and the Serre Chevalier ski resort on the slopes across the valley and to the right further up the valley, Monetièr-les-Bains and the Hotel Alliey. Probably the easiest day of the tour, 46 K and 1700 vertical meters (5577 ft) accumulated over two cols, but if anyone wants a bit more challenge, lots of options available. Then again by this time everyone might be ready for an easy day followed by a good soak in the hot pool followed by an excellent meal and good bottles of wine to wrap up this part of the tour.

Day 7, shuttle over Col de Lautaret and down to la Grave, a beautiful little village under la Meije, a 3984 meter high (13071 ft) mass of seemingly vertical rock, ice, and snow. Unload the bikes for the tour’s last jaunt. Down the valley to the Chambon dam, stiff climb up to Mizoën, turn right onto a one-laner in the village, and we’re on our way to the Plateau d’Emparis. You might by now be getting tired of my saying this but, I’ll say it anyway; this is a stunningly good ride, one of my best of the best. A few K out of the village the asphalt ends but crazily enough the road becomes almost smoother, at least for awhile. Depends on the time of year and conditions but so far that’s been my experience in the five times I’ve ridden it. Beautiful road winding up an all but treeless slope, slicing across rock cliffs from time to time, and almost always with la Meije filling the horizon and way down below the narrow gorge we rode through from la Grave. Outside of a few short sections, just about the entire distance up is remarkably smooth. Eventually we arrive on the plateau where there’s this wonderful small refuge. If it hasn’t closed for the season yet, we’ll stop for something to eat, drink some wine or beer, finish with a coffee, relax and soak up the ambiance. It’s our final day so we’ll make it last as long as we can.

Then up and across the plateau to a trail going right up onto a windswept ridge and the Col du Souchet. There’s a point during the climb when you’ll look up and about fall off your bike. La Meije soaring up right in front of our eyes. Then it’s a wild single-track down and across the mountain, finally plunging into a small valley where we catch a road back around to la Grave for beers and smiles and with that the tour is over. Another short day in numbers. 45 K 1700 vertical meters (5577 ft), but the body might not want to believe ‘em. Bikes on the trailer, people in the van, down to Grenoble for a great last meal together, a night’s rest, and off to the airport for flights of soaring memories.

Total distance ridden around 359 K (223 miles) with 12,112 vertical meters (39737 ft) of gain. Four days with well over 50% of the distance on dirt, two days with well under 50% on dirt, and the first day that’s all asphalt. Seven days of riding, three hotels (not including the last night), two countries. Price per person 1950€ (around 2400$, which changes constantly). That’s based on single-occupancy in the hotels. Doubling up in rooms will lower the cost some but not all that much in the overall scheme of things. I’ve priced it for single occupancy figuring if anybody is older, like me, a room alone is way more comfortable. The age factor, the old getting up in the night to pee story. Breakfast is included but neither lunch nor dinner. Once I know how many people have signed-on, I’ll renegotiate room prices with dinner included for most of the nights. That will change the pricing but for now I’m just running with this number.

Bringing your own bike over isn’t necessary, though obviously preferred if you’ve got one that’s exactly what you like. The rides are way too good and unique to do with something that’s not right for you. But if you don’t want to haul a bike over there’s an excellent bike shop, bASECAMP, in Talloires above Lake Annecy, that rents what apparently are excellent fat-tired road bikes. My son, three of his buddies, and Blaise all used them and were universal in saying they were a total gas to ride. My son even said he would have been perfectly happy to have kept the one he was on, an Open, I don’t recall which model. One of the owners is Adam Horler, he’s english, good guy, they know their stuff there. So bikes can be arranged. Apparently they’ll change stems and stuff to make sure the bike’s right for you. That will be have to arranged between you and them or through me if needed as go-between and I’ll collect the bikes in advance so all is set to go when you arrive. Even better would be to come over early and go to the shop yourself and make sure the bike’s what you want.

I believe I can safely say that this will be a week of riding like you’ve never had. I mean the itinerary includes 3 of my favorite climbs - Galibier south side, Finestre north side, the climb to Emparis - one of the finest high altitude mountain romps in the Alps – Strada dell’Assieta – and a double-track/single-track climb that just about tops everything I’ve ever ridden – the climb to Blegier. Plus a couple of nights in Hotel Alliey, a place I love, and three nights in Oulx, a town that for no particular reason I just like a lot. Distances aren’t killer but the verticals are impressive. To my knowledge no one is offering any tours even close to what this serves up.

We’re talking an itinerary that perfectly showcases the magic these fat-tired road bikes are all about, extravagant mixes of surfaces these bikes dance over. The tour’s all about saying, hey, you’ve got this fat-tired road bike you love, you’re feeling good, strong, solid, rocking and rolling with the best of ‘em, so this is what you’ve absolutely gotta ride! You’re going to friggin love it! It’s the best, guaranteed. Day after day. There isn’t anything else like it. Well, actually there is, the second tour, the third week of September. Different terrain, different mix, same result, a mind warpingly good time.

For years I’ve been writing about rides like these, posting pictures, with people always saying how they’d love to be able to ride them. Which would be awesome but the reality is that at least for most people to do that isn’t so easy. Not without some structure to make it happen. So, here it is, a structure to enable those who’d love to ride these kinds of places. Otherwise you’ll just have to keep on looking at pictures and dreaming. Life’s too short to just dream.

[morrisericd]

When I saw your name on the post, I thought: I have so missed these write-up's and wonderful pictures this winter. Then, as I'm reading through, I realize that this is something really special. Something not to be missed. What a tour! Bravo! I'll let others ask the questions and follow closely along. What a great start to my day!

[velotel]

I was looking at photos taken on the Strada dell’Assieta and thought I ought to do some cropping and zooming to give people a better visual idea of just how long a road this puppy is. So 3 pictures taken from near Colle Basset, about 5,5 K from the start of the road up from Sestriere. In the distance near the right edge in the first shot there’s a U-shaped saddle with a mountain in the far distance behind it. That saddle is the Colle della Finestre. From where I’m standing to the col is roughly 32+ K. The next two shots are simply zooming in to make the road across the mountain and the Colle della Finestre more visible. The fourth was shot from Colle della Finestre looking in the opposite direction, different year, different season taken with my old camera that had started sliding into fail mode so not as good as the others. In the distance of the fourth pic is a triangular summit against the sky, in front of it a round hill with green slopes below the summit, just to the right of that hill is a saddle and in that saddle is Colle Blegier. To the left of that same hill is another saddle, barely visible, and that’s where Colle Basset is. The Strada dell’Assieta climbs over that round hill and it was somewhere over there towards Basset where I was standing when I took the earlier photo looking at Colle Finestre. The Sestriere end of the road is about 38 K from Finestre and the only place in that entire distance where the road dips below 2000 meters is on the small plateau in the foreground of the fourth shot. Below 2000 but only by about 100 meters. Sestriere is off the photo to the left, our hotel in a village barely visible in the valley.

Et voilà, that’s the Strada dell’Assieta, an amazing road perfect for fat-tired road bikes.

[yarg]

I am so in. I believe I have also talked a good friend into the adventure as well. If the weather breaks here I can finally start to get some miles under my belt, plenty of time for that, but thoughts of this get me chomping at the bit.