Col de Marocaz, Col de Lindar

[velotel]

The Col de Marocaz, one more anonymous col in a region full of them. Only 958 meters high, never crossed by the TdF, little chance it ever will be.

A fine ride, steep but honest steep, the kind strong riders feel even when they’re flying up it, the kind an old guy like me running small gearing will feel but still roll at a respectful pace, all things being relative. I’d ridden it recently, part way up. Had to buy some stuff near the base and hauled my bike along on the off-chance I’d be able to get in a ride. I did but without time to top out. Years ago I would have, long gone now.

A good day for a return, check out the dirt road that climbs from Marocaz to Col de Lindar, a col even more anonymous than Marocaz. No idea if Lindar was doable with my fat-tired road bike but maybe. If it goes, drop down the north side then around and over Col des Prés and back through the vineyards to make a loop. If it doesn’t go, turn around, ride to Lac de la Thuile, enjoy a beer at the small restaurant there, finish up with by looping around via the vineyards.

Probably should have waited a couple weeks to ride it. The forest the road curls up through is just starting to turn. When it’s in full explosion mode with reds, yellows, oranges, and browns a haphazard splash of stains across the slopes it’s pretty friggin gorgeous. So far this autumn looks like it might be an acid hit color extravaganza. But not yet.

Parked in my usual spot for this ride, next to the Arbin cemetery. Seems appropriate since I’m probably going to be pretty much dead after the ride. Also a peaceful place for bowling before rolling.

Warm-up ride to the village of Cruet on a two-laner, Turn left, the climb joined. Easy grade, road narrows, squeezes through old houses, ramps up into double digits then slacks off, but not too much. Curl over an old bridge and into another squeeze through rock-walled houses. Pop out into fields and a small vineyard and the climb is truly joined. Grade stiff enough, sustained, used to ride it in a 34/25 then a 34/27. Now I’m super happy in a 30/32. Life.

Signs of the coming autumn scattered in the forest. Part of a chateau partially hidden behind a grove of trees off to the right. Into a hairpin to the left, grade steepens. Somewhere back in the forest is the remains of an old tower that someone started restoring a few years ago. Can’t see if they finished, only visible after the leaves have fallen. A stretched out series of switchbacks followed by a sinuous traverse back to the left and around into a gorge with the road almost flat and carved out of a small cliff. Stop and let the silence wash over me. Air still, not a leaf moving, finally hear a lizard or maybe a mouse scurrying through dry leaves.

Deeper into the gorge, air cooling, across a tight, one-lane, stone bridge over the stream. Or over the stream bed because there’s not a drop of water visible. Hard right immediately after the bridge and the road gets interesting. As in 9%, ramps over 10, the road zigging up a not far off vertical wall of small cliffs with trees clinging to the soil. Lots of ferns brown from the drought. Totally silent. Cool in the shade, refreshing.

Off the cliffs and the mood shifts, the road easier, views opening up where the forest has been cut. A long, traversing climb up through a small collection of houses, through more forest, a slight curve to the left and I’m on the col, the dirt road angling up and off to the right. Circle a couple of times relaxing the legs then swing into the dirt.

Turns out to be easier than I expected, less steep than the road to Marocaz. But rocky, lots of gravel on the surface. Pretty much the case on all the dirt roads I’ve been on this summer. Because of the drought. The soil parched, 4x4s drive over it, the dirt turns to dust, rocks rise to the surface. Wouldn’t want to be riding this with skinny tires. Even fatter tires would be appreciated. Around a slow bend to the right and the road’s even flatter and I move down a couple of cogs. I’m starting to really like this track. Definitely have to come back with the colors are in full explosion.

Around some sort of cavity in the hill where long ago someone apparently dug out something with a machine. I’d read that the final part between the dirt road I was on and the paved road on the other side of the col was a single-track, No sign of it yet but past the cavity the road evolves into a sort of double-track with a clear line worn into the surface by presumably mountain bikes. A switchback to the right and I’m on the trail, which definitely isn’t a single-track, just a wide part path up the mountain. Semi-technical, engaging riding. Then it gets steep. Too steep for me to ride. No problem, hike-a-bike time.

I press on, wondering what’s ahead. If the col is close, I’ll keep going and do the loop. If it looks like still a good bit to go, I’ll turn around, return another time, when the leaves have turned. Glance up, still steep, hard to tell how close to the col I am. Decide to turn around, leave it for another day. Did close to 2 K with around 165 meters of climbing, small bonus for the day.

The ride back down the gravel turned out to be way smoother and faster than I expected. I’d been thinking it would be a rough cob of a descent but instead I managed to follow relatively smooth lines and before I even knew it I was back at the Col de Marocaz. A fun little detour, definitely something to come and do another time.

Drop down the north side, fast, twisty descent, some nice carvers, out of the forest into a longish, wobbling straight and the bike’s accelerating hard. Oops, car coming up, first one I’ve seen in a long time, road’s narrow, hug the edge, rush by, back in speed mode. The road dives through a farm, the house and some garages on one side, barns on the other, a blind curve in the middle, I slow down, watching for some dog or maybe chickens darting into my path. Then off again.

Hit the junction for the lake, short, steep climb, into the village, glide by the restaurant, stop shoot some pics of the lake and village. A beer seriously tempting but, it’s late, another time. Skirt past the lake on another road, over a small hill and down, one-laner with manure clods generously scattered across the surface. Remember to keep the mouth closed. A bend to the right and a flyer past fields and down to the junction with the road to the col. And on and on, fun roads, finally into the vineyards, more one-laners, some gravel tracks, no idea if this is a good year or not but there seem to be a lot of grapes looking ready for harvest. Something about riding through vineyards I always enjoy, not as much as riding through fields of lavender but almost. Back to the car, a good ride on a small col.

[paredown]

Lovely ride, thanks for sharing (again)!

If we can't be there with you, we can be there in spirit!

[jghall]

Think the only thing better than the stories and pictures, would also be to see and maybe hear about the cuisine and wine that can be had at these wonderful locations. I'm guessing along with the photos, spectacular.

Please keep them coming.

[572cv]

Your 'back yard' is just a tantalizing web of roads and lanes and tracks from one ancient place to another. With views. It speaks to everything from the gratification of great climbs and descents on a bike, to a sense of historic civilization and human enterprise, to a fundamental beauty of the mountains.

The continuing additions of both great and just really good rides is a huge asset to this place. There is no travelogue of the French Alps for cyclists better than that which you have created here. Thanks again!

[thwart]

Another wonderful post.

Something about riding through vineyards I always enjoy, not as much as riding through fields of lavender but almost.

And I remain very envious...

[weisan]

Remember to keep the mouth closed.

Giggles....

[Mr. Pink]

Originally Posted by 572cv

your 'back yard' is just a tantalizing web of roads and lanes and tracks from one ancient place to another. With views. It speaks to everything from the gratification of great climbs and descents on a bike, to a sense of historic civilization and human enterprise, to a fundamental beauty of the mountains.

The continuing additions of both great and just really good rides is a huge asset to this place. There is no travelogue of the french alps for cyclists better than that which you have created here. Thanks again!

x2

[velotel]

Originally Posted by 572cv

Your 'back yard' is just a tantalizing web of roads and lanes and tracks from one ancient place to another. With views. It speaks to everything from the gratification of great climbs and descents on a bike, to a sense of historic civilization and human enterprise, to a fundamental beauty of the mountains.

The continuing additions of both great and just really good rides is a huge asset to this place. There is no travelogue of the French Alps for cyclists better than that which you have created here. Thanks again!

Thanks, much appareciated, really the only reason I write up these rides, pass along perspectives most americans will never have the chance to experience themselves, or maybe inspire them to come over and discover them for themselves. Cheers and how's the house?

[572cv]

Originally Posted by velotel

Thanks, much appareciated, really the only reason I write up these rides, pass along perspectives most americans will never have the chance to experience themselves, or maybe inspire them to come over and discover them for themselves. Cheers and how's the house?

It is not that hard to get over to France from the US. At least from the east coast. Inspiring paceliners to look into it is a great thing. Then they might experience not only the quality of riding in the Alps, but also the quality of riding in a country where it is deeply respected as a sport. That experience brings one to a whole 'nother level.

The house is in a great location. We're going back on Sunday for three weeks It is just below the village of Turenne. There's a garage for bikes!

[owly]

Best pics yet! at least for me. I like seeing narrow lanes between old houses, and narrow tree-covered gravel tracks.

Sitting here getting ready to go out for the day. Would love to have those options.