Stripping paint from ALU frame ......now PSA

[azrider]

So.......I have an aluminum bike that I'd like to convert to raw, or 'brushed' aluminum "look".

I'm guessing this is more than stripping paint, and treating the aluminum (sandpaper or polishing) and then painting with clear coat?????

Can anyone give me a "what to expect" if I tried to DIY this project ??

[Hindmost]

I have done this to repair part of a frame. Your description is pretty close. Sanding can go down to about 220 grit, followed by Scotch-Brite. Depending on frame condition might be able to do Scotch-Brite alone. Clean well, wipe down with acetone, and apply clear coat before oxides can form.

[thermalattorney]

It's actually less. There's no need to clear coat the frame once you've stripped the paint off, unless you're dead set on a glossy finish.

Having done this twice, here's my advice:

Depending on the thickness/stubbornness of the paint, you'll need to do 2-3 applications of aircraft remover. It's only ~20min per application and there's no elbow grease involved, just do it in a well ventilated area with a drop cloth. Make sure to wear gloves and eye protection, have a cup of water handy to neutralize the solvent should any get onto your skin. A pressure washer is handy but is not necessary.

After this first step, there will still be some stubborn paint left in welds or other crevices. With any luck, you'll only need to do a minimum of buffing with a polishing compound like Mother's using a rag or drill attachment. I would avoid sandpaper at first and absolutely DO NOT use something like steel wool. If you're unlucky and there's some staining, expect to spend hours polishing.

The results are really cool, especially if you have a frame with distinctive tube shapes:



Good luck!

[saf-t]

Originally Posted by thermalattorney

Depending on the thickness/stubbornness of the paint, you'll need to do 2-3 applications of aircraft remover. It's only ~20min per application and there's no elbow grease involved, just do it in a well ventilated area with a drop cloth. Make sure to wear gloves and eye protection, have a cup of water handy to neutralize the solvent should any get onto your skin.

Please note that aircraft remover (like 5F5, Strip Eez, etc.) is primarily methylene chloride, a highly volatile carcinogen that's easily absorbed through the skin. OSHA's Permissible Exposure Limit for MeCl2 is 25 parts per million. You can't smell it until it's 100 ppm or so, which is why OSHA requires an airline respirator for use when over the PEL (which is almost all the time, ime). OSHA also requires an eyewash unit capable of providing 15 minutes of flow for its use, as exposure can result in permanent eye damage.

The only gloves that are truly protective are barrier gloves like the North SilverShield ones.

I strongly discourage its use on a regular basis.

/rant

[azrider]

Originally Posted by Hindmost

I have done this to repair part of a frame. Your description is pretty close. Sanding can go down to about 220 grit, followed by Scotch-Brite. Depending on frame condition might be able to do Scotch-Brite alone. Clean well, wipe down with acetone, and apply clear coat before oxides can form.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by thermalattorney

It's actually less. There's no need to clear coat the frame once you've stripped the paint off, unless you're dead set on a glossy finish.

Having done this twice, here's my advice:

Depending on the thickness/stubbornness of the paint, you'll need to do 2-3 applications of aircraft remover. It's only ~20min per application and there's no elbow grease involved, just do it in a well ventilated area with a drop cloth. Make sure to wear gloves and eye protection, have a cup of water handy to neutralize the solvent should any get onto your skin. A pressure washer is handy but is not necessary.

After this first step, there will still be some stubborn paint left in welds or other crevices. With any luck, you'll only need to do a minimum of buffing with a polishing compound like Mother's using a rag or drill attachment. I would avoid sandpaper at first and absolutely DO NOT use something like steel wool. If you're unlucky and there's some staining, expect to spend hours polishing.

The results are really cool, especially if you have a frame with distinctive tube shapes:



Good luck!

Wow that Felt looks REALLY cool. Nicely done.

What do you mean by staining? You mean from the paint remover?

Also. I was thinking I would need clear coat to help with corrosion (I tend to get sweaty in the summer)

Originally Posted by saf-t

Please note that aircraft remover (like 5F5, Strip Eez, etc.) is primarily methylene chloride, a highly volatile carcinogen that's easily absorbed through the skin. OSHA's Permissible Exposure Limit for MeCl2 is 25 parts per million. You can't smell it until it's 100 ppm or so, which is why OSHA requires an airline respirator for use when over the PEL (which is almost all the time, ime). OSHA also requires an eyewash unit capable of providing 15 minutes of flow for its use, as exposure can result in permanent eye damage.

The only gloves that are truly protective are barrier gloves like the North SilverShield ones.

Noted!

[thermalattorney]

Originally Posted by azrider

What do you mean by staining? You mean from the paint remover?

I wish I had taken a pic all those years ago. It had nothing to do with the solvent, it's more like some faint leftover paint. The other frame I stripped did not have this issue and came out looking super clean with little work.

[azrider]

Originally Posted by thermalattorney

I wish I had taken a pic all those years ago. It had nothing to do with the solvent, it's more like some faint leftover paint. The other frame I stripped did not have this issue and came out looking super clean with little work.

Ahh........I see. I wonder if it has anything to do with the quality of tubing used....

[Dave]

You can buy several different grades of scotchbrite from the coarse green variety, to finer burgundy color or even finer grey.

[false_Aest]

Why is look in quotes?

[aaronf]

Originally Posted by false_Aest

Why is look in quotes?

My guess is that the OP didn't want to confuse anyone regarding Look frames/bicycles.

[DRietz]

Oxides form on aluminum almost instantaneously and are actually protective of the material, unlike iron oxide on steel.

So clear is really not necessary unless you live in a place with salt in the air or on the road or both.

[monkeybanana86]

Nice job on that Felt!

[macaroon]

If it were my bike, I'd......

Strip the paint off carefully.
Don't use anything overly abrasive, as alu is soft and can easily be marked by sandpaper.
Polish it up using fine wet and dry and polishing compounds to get a shiny finish.
Take it to an anodizer and ask them to clear anodize it.

[azrider]

Originally Posted by false_Aest

Why is look in quotes?

Just didn't know best way to achieve the same end goal: sanding, painting, paint stripping, polishing, etc


Also.....for anyone who wants to help. How would I accomplish putting logo's back on? Decal? Paint ?

Thanks again y'all

[guyintense]

I just did this to my new Intense, unfortunately it was powder coated a bright orange. I used the brush-on Aircraft stripper, didn't work nearly as well as the youtube video BTW, and a few brass wire brushes, then a dental tool for the tight spots and red scotch bright pads. It took me two days but I was really happy with the results. I left it raw and just hit it with scotch pads periodically.