can you convert a 130mm hub to 135mm?

[d_douglas]

For once, this isnt about my bike, but my 12 year old daughter's mixte.

I am upgrading her wheels by adding a dynamo light to the front and I decided I would build a nicer rear for her, just because. Its a breezer Uptown something something that is really quite nice.

My work buddy is a bike nerd and he just handed me a very old, but pretty much mint Shimano 105 hub, but when I brought it to my LBS to build (yes, I should learn this skill myself), the question of whether it was the right spacing or not came up. Indeed, I took the hub back home and checked and hte rear dropouts are 135mm. So, can this nice 105 hub be respaced or is it ill advised? I read that it can be done, but it sounds like it may be a trial that is not worth investing in?

He also mentioned that the FHB is one that may or may not take a 9-10-11 speed cassette, just to pile things on. Knowing this, I am inclined to say that I should get a new hub, but want affirmation .

If I cannot use this hub (it was in exchange for a coffee, so essentially it was free) what hub out there is good quality and durable for wet weather, but 125mm and for rim brakes (and silver!)?? An old Deore/LX/XT hub, I guess? A designer hub, but not into the big $$ for a bike that she may not be responsible with. Are there any others? I guess this isnt as cheap as I had expected it to be!

[pdonk]

Yes, possible, did it a few times years ago.

Get a 135 mm axle, take the cones etc off of the 130 and install on the 135. You may need some spacers between the cones and lock nuts to get the spacing right.

[EB]

If you are willing to spend $94, this is the one you want: https://www.rivbike.com/products/sil...-135mm-36-hole

[Look585]

I have a couple of sealed bearing MTB-11s compatible 135mm spaced hubs that I would love to eliminate from my parts bin. Yours for the cost of shipping.

[tellyho]

Should be re-spaceble as is. Pretty sure you would leave enough axle in adding 5mm to the spacer stack. You would want to add most/all of the spacers to the NDS. Sheldon talks about this process somewhere on his site.

[foo_fighter]

There is no problem running a deore center lock QR hub in a rim brake application. They are dirt cheap and work well. I used one in my daughter's 24" hotrock and the only reason was to be able to use a cassette instead of freewheel. The hub dimensions were so close that I re-used the spokes and rim.

[bikinchris]

Yes, it isn't hard labor wise. But finding the parts may be hard. all you need is an axle from a Shimano MTB hub and a 5mm spacer. The MTB axle will use the same threads as the 105 hub uses, so the cones will screw onto the new axle and include the 5mm spacer on the non-drive end.

[PacNW2Ford]

At $41, a Deore 610 rim brake hub would be a no brainer choice for me.

[d_douglas]

Originally Posted by PacNW2Ford

At $41, a Deore 610 rim brake hub would be a no brainer choice for me.

Is that what they cost? Oh, maybe I will buy a new one and skip the hassle!

[foo_fighter]

Why wouldn’t you use a disc hub?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=94587

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by pdonk

Yes, possible, did it a few times years ago.

Get a 135 mm axle, take the cones etc off of the 130 and install on the 135. You may need some spacers between the cones and lock nuts to get the spacing right.

Mostly correct..you need a threaded, 10by1, 146mm axle and some spacers. Ideally, add 2.5mm to each side and bobs yer uncle. Or, add 1mm to right and 4mm to left...which helps center to flange distances and wee bit stronger wheel.

Wheels Manufacturing has them. Expensive tho...Here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20368255302...sAAOSwv2taqFNN

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Mostly correct..you need a threaded, 10by1, 146mm axle and some spacers. Ideally, add 2.5mm to each side and bobs yer uncle. Or, add 1mm to right and 4mm to left...which helps center to flange distances and wee bit stronger wheel.

Wheels Manufacturing has them. Expensive tho...Here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20368255302...sAAOSwv2taqFNN

If you don't ever plan on moving the wheel from bike to bike, do this. If you're like me and move things around, put the spacers on the NDS and leave DS spacing alone.

I haven't had to do the axle swap in many years, but it isn't hard. If you do intend to keep things cross compatible, make sure you measure the DS locknut to end of axle dimension and get that right.

HTH from the cheap SOBs are us types

M

[d_douglas]

The other complication is that apparently the 105 hub may not accept 9-10-11 speeds should I upgrade at all. Makes this hub seem less ideal for the axle change, even though bearings are ‘smooth like butta’

[Mark McM]

A good rule of thumb is that it can be worthwhile upgrading a hub (axle length, freehub type) in wheel that is already built, but it generally isn't worthwhile upgrading an un-built hub. When building a new wheel, it is usually cheapest and easiest to start with the correct hub.

In this case, it is quite possible to swap out the axle and freehub body to make it a 135mm and 11spd, but it will likely cost more than simply replacing the hub.

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

A good rule of thumb is that it can be worthwhile upgrading a hub (axle length, freehub type) in wheel that is already built

If you do that, you will have to redish the wheel and then have to deal with spokes that are too long and too short.