#31
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You can buy shims for that.
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It's not an adventure until something goes wrong. - Yvon C. |
#32
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Can you actually shim out a shimano nds arm by that much?
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#33
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I feel like the answer is probably not? Gotta be able to get the safety clip in, otherwise theyre not fully engaged, and that is probably too much. Could be wrong though
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#34
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You shim the chainrings IN. They're both mounted on the inside of the spider.
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#35
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So I got what I think are 0.5mm spacers from the shop. Just to test gap I tried putting one of them through the space between the 4iiii and the chainstay and man... it barely cleared soooo I think it's going to be pretty important to add 1-2 of these suckers in there.
Woof. |
#36
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Installed 2 spacers and I can get a 2mm hex through the gap. With one spacer I can get a 1.5mm hex through. I feel like 2mm is likely safer, no?
Can still likely move the cleat enough to compensate. |
#37
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Rode the bike outside in philly for the first time and it felt fantastic. Definitely some fit tweaks need to be made and I really felt like I was sitting on top of the bike which was a bit strange at first, if that makes any sense.
In any event: Question though: While setting up the tubeless tires, I think I tapped the rear brake lever when moving things around... Any recs on how to fix it? I used a screwdriver head to pry the pads apart a bit which helped, but now things are squealing horribly in the rear when braking. I don't think it's from an issue with the pads being damaged hopefully, but got dang is it obnoxious. |
#38
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Quote:
from what I've read/seen, discs are super sensitive to getting the rotors/pads contaminated and I expect you could have done something to the pad when you pried them apart?
__________________
Be the Reason Others Succeed |
#39
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Yeah careful with the rotors. Maybe just get new ones if cleaning doesn't work. learn your lesson and be careful in the future.
Are you spinning out much with the 46/11 top end? I doubt you need to upgrade the rotor diameter just yet. Unless you're finding yourself breaking really hard constantly on long technical downhills... Dont change from the current petals until you decide you don't want it off road. Just keep going on rides and exploring. If you see a new trail or anything that looks close to ride-able, turn up it and have a look. You'll be surprised what's actually ride-able with these types of machines. If it was me, the only thing I would do is make sure my tyres are wide enough (40mm) and have some tread on them for exploring. Looks like you have gravel kings but not sure what kind. I liked the gravelking super slicks or the Schwalbe G-ones. Enough tread to let me have fun on trails/mixed terrain but not a ton of rolling resistance for the road. |
#40
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Quote:
Thanks for the tip re pedals. I'm actually digging regular spds for riding in a more urban environment! Re 46x11. I honestly can't imagine where I'd spin that out. If I'm going that fast downhill, I'm probably not pedaling. I'm also very slow right now so maybe I'll want something more for the road but for now it's plenty! I'll let you know more after my first hilly ride with it. |
#41
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Going to bump this thread to see if anyone has any input on swapping disc sizes.
My front and rear are currently 140s and I'm moving to 160mm rotors. Issue is that both calipers are post mount but the front is post mount and the rear is flat mount. I figure I just need a spacer for the front but I'm a little unsure of what adapter I'd need to go +20 as well as flat mount to post mount. I've been searching a bit but couldn't find anything. Anyone know of something I just happen to have missed? Thanks! |
#42
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Quote:
For example: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...-brake-adapter |
#43
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Quote:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...et-and-caliper |
#44
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Quote:
So, you just need a PM 160 adapter for the front. And a FM 160 adapter for the rear. FWIW, many (most?) production road bike frames are built around a 140mm rear rotor, but delivered with a 160mm rear rotor, and a +20mm adapter between frame and caliper. This is probably what you need (the rear 160 part, not the front 140/160 part): https://www.jensonusa.com/TRP-Flat-M...160-Reversable Last edited by Alistair; 07-31-2023 at 08:45 AM. |
#45
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Thanks for all the input! I'll try to be a bit more clear!
The fork has a post mount that has a post mount caliper. Currently 140mm. I believe I just need a spacer for this and I've seen some shimano mounts. I'm more concerned about compatibility in the rear. The frame is flat mount, currently using a post mount adapter but still using a 140mm rotor. I guess I was looking for a spacer here too, but it appears that I'll be better served with a completely new adapter that's set up to do 160mm. That checks out right? I'd asked about this earlier in the thread but I think the shop had ordered the wrong parts when I did this over a year ago. I have some weird IS adapters and have no idea where they came from. I didn't know about the difference at the time since I just wanted to get the bike rideable again. Last edited by ridethecliche; 07-31-2023 at 12:27 PM. |
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