Newb wheelset/hub question

[tuxbailey]

Originally Posted by Zackus

Yes I'm in DC. Bike was in northern PA. Shipped it.
Bike is 56cm TT 55cm ST. I agree bike is beautiful and was a deal, didn't hesitate on pulling the trigger. It may have to be flipped as there is not a lot of standover room for me, but we'll see what I can live with. Probably would be perfect for someone an inch longer in the leg than me.

If it doesn't work let me know. It doesn't work for me but I know someone who might be interested.

[colker]

Originally Posted by Zackus

Yes I'm in DC. Bike was in northern PA. Shipped it.
Bike is 56cm TT 55cm ST. I agree bike is beautiful and was a deal, didn't hesitate on pulling the trigger. It may have to be flipped as there is not a lot of standover room for me, but we'll see what I can live with. Probably would be perfect for someone an inch longer in the leg than me.

Just get a shorter stem. 110mmm. You don´t need much standover on a road bike.

[Zackus]

Well after taking the the bike for a ride, i'm quite pleased and think it's definitely going to work out, but I am left with with a few more wheel questions

1. The rims appear to be pretty well-worn on the braking surface. Most of my other wheel have had a wear indicator hole or the like to determine when most of the braking surface has worn away. I can't seem to find one on these. Does anyone know if the A23 rims have these? If so, it seems to be gone.

The only other thing it sounds like is good indicator is when the braking surface becomes convex, which these very slightly are at the moment.

All of that brings me to my second question:

2. Is it worth taking them to a wheel builder and having them rebuild with new rims? I don't know at all, and haven't consulted my LBSs that build wheels yet but I would assume the price of this approaches building a set from scratch with the labor involved. It seems only worth doing if you have nice hubs, which these appear to be.

[marciero]

If the rims are played out it is a simple matter to rebuild. Though some here would disagree, it's perfectly fine to even use the same spokes if you replaced with the same rims. I would maintain their orientations if you do this. If you are a first time wheel builder this gives you an easy non-mission-critical on-ramp to wheelbuilding. After de-tensioning the spokes evenly and gradually, simply tape the new rim to the old, paying attention to valve hole and also the left/right spoke hole orientation, and transfer the spokes one at a time to get them laced up, but dont tension them. You will want to use new nipples and lube the threads-lots of opinions on what to use for that. Then you can have the lbs do the final tension and true.

On the other hand, rebuilding will give you an opportunity to try other rims. The A23 were "wide" when they were introduced, but "wide" in modern road rims seems to typically refer to something a bit wider now. You can also pick different spokes, etc.

I would take care in selecting your wheelbuilder. Any lbs will do this for you but I have found that the skill or level of care can vary. Once I started building my own and taking care (and lots of time) I stopped trusting unvetted wheelbuilders to take the same level of care or to the same tolerances. Will they call it good enough if the spokes are too short or long? Some spokes are available in 2mm increments. I have mine cut to order in 1mm increments. I also developed preferences about lube vs spoke prep, etc. I did have my last set built by someone locally, after discussing wheels and wheelbuilding over the course of several visits.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Zackus

Well after taking the the bike for a ride, i'm quite pleased and think it's definitely going to work out, but I am left with with a few more wheel questions

1. The rims appear to be pretty well-worn on the braking surface. Most of my other wheel have had a wear indicator hole or the like to determine when most of the braking surface has worn away. I can't seem to find one on these. Does anyone know if the A23 rims have these? If so, it seems to be gone.

The only other thing it sounds like is good indicator is when the braking surface becomes convex, which these very slightly are at the moment.

All of that brings me to my second question:

2. Is it worth taking them to a wheel builder and having them rebuild with new rims? I don't know at all, and haven't consulted my LBSs that build wheels yet but I would assume the price of this approaches building a set from scratch with the labor involved. It seems only worth doing if you have nice hubs, which these appear to be.

With DT190 hubs, WELL worth it to be rebuilt. These hubs alone are north of $700..new rims, maybe use the same spokes, is in the $350 range...new hubs, even lower end ones and that is $550-$650.

[josephr]

thats a dream wheelset and a dream frame for many. You're a lucky guy, don't let upgrade-itis bother you...you're already at the top!

[robt57]

Well if the rims are worn beyond serviceability, the;ll nee to be replaced. Especially if you are a PSI hound, some folks still like 100 PSI+. worn rims get more dodgy at higher pressure it is easily argued.

I have quit a few of them mainy due to open pro ERD similarity when I started replacing O_Pro worn rims, and a few just to try wide back when. Other than the narrow brake track, not had any issue with 10 of them.

Being a Clyde, I embraced the wider rim fatter road tire early on. Especially 35 lbs ago.

The A23 width can vary new, so without a wear indicator, measuring may not do it too accurately. I just measured a new one @ 22.8w and a more used one @ 23mm wide. So obviously the die wear can alter just how wide new one can wind up.

List of 601 ERD rims for straight swaps. Could be more.

DT SWISS RR 411 700C BLACK ASYMMETRIC MSW RIM $103.00 435 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole Rim Brake Compatible Black DT Swiss Aluminum Rims 601 Welded 21mm 18mm 22mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

DT SWISS RR 411 700C BLACK MSW RIM $103.00 435 20 hole, 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole Rim Brake Compatible Black DT Swiss Aluminum Rims 601 Welded 21mm 18mm 22mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 MSW BLACK 700C RIM $93.00 450 20 hole, 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole, 36 hole Rim Brake Compatible Black Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 MSW POLISHED 700C RIM $124.00 450 20 hole, 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole, 36 hole Rim Brake Compatible Polished Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 MSW SILVER 700C RIM $93.00 450 20 hole, 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole, 36 hole Rim Brake Compatible Silver Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 OC MSW BLACK 700C RIM $93.00 450 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole, 36 hole Rim Brake Compatible Black Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 OC MSW BLUE 700C RIM $93.00 450 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole Rim Brake Compatible Blue Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 OC MSW POLISHED 700C RIM $124.00 450 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole, 36 hole Rim Brake Compatible Polished Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 OC MSW RED 700C RIM $93.00 450 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole Rim Brake Compatible Red Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 OC MSW SILVER 700C RIM $93.00 450 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole, 36 hole Rim Brake Compatible Silver Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in

VELOCITY A23 OC MSW WHITE 700C RIM $93.00 450 24 hole, 28 hole, 32 hole Rim Brake Compatible White Velocity Aluminum Rims 601 Sleeved 19.5mm 18mm 23mm Tubeless Compatible 700 / 29in



Other rim ERD could be used changing the cross pattern on the build. But I never change the cross pattern on used wheels/hubs personally. Just a druther of mine, a lot of folk adhere to.

[Zackus]

Originally Posted by josephr

thats a dream wheelset and a dream frame for many. You're a lucky guy, don't let upgrade-itis bother you...you're already at the top!

Thanks, I'm probably undeserving of such a fancy nice bike. Was considering purchasing a 105 level All-city Zig Zag for what would have been more money. This is almost embarrassingly nice, and probably more fitting for someone that rides 6k+ miles/yr and 10 years older, but what can you do? I'm excited about, and hope to put thousands of miles on it.

[Zackus]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

With DT190 hubs, WELL worth it to be rebuilt. These hubs alone are north of $700..new rims, maybe use the same spokes, is in the $350 range...new hubs, even lower end ones and that is $550-$650.

Thank you and everyone else for the advice, I'll probably take the wheels in and have them rebuilt with the same or similar rims. Just trying get to bike all dialed in and fully tuned up for riding. I'm going to experiment with 28s, just ordered some Vittoria Corsa Controls to throw on, We'll see how they fit the bike on these rims. I may go wider to a wider rim, but I'm not sure wider rim +28s will fit the frame.

Originally Posted by robt57

Well if the rims are worn beyond serviceability, the;ll nee to be replaced. Especially if you are a PSI hound, some folks still like 100 PSI+. worn rims get more dodgy at higher pressure it is easily argued.

I have quit a few of them mainy due to open pro ERD similarity when I started replacing O_Pro worn rims, and a few just to try wide back when. Other than the narrow brake track, not had any issue with 10 of them.

Being a Clyde, I embraced the wider rim fatter road tire early on. Especially 35 lbs ago.

I ride 90-95 psi normally, when I throw the 28s on, i'm sure I'll go a little lower. Thanks for the list of replacements, as mentioned above, I'll experiment with 25s vs. 28s.

[robt57]

Originally Posted by Zackus

I may go wider to a wider rim, but I'm not sure wider rim +28s will fit the frame.... I'll experiment with 25s vs. 28s.

The A23 is 18C x 622. So a 28 tire sit perfect on those. Try some latex tubes too.


Just an observation, looking at the pic of the bike I notice the brake pad carrier seem dropped a bit rather than stuffed up high in the slots. This generally indicates more generous tire fit. So unless the inernal arch of the fork crown is tight, or the chain stays tight. My guess is you are probably good for the 28s.

Some 28s can run pretty big, most spot on.

Enjoy that purty thang

[robt57]

I'd add that I have used the GranPrix 4000Sii 28mm on both 19c rims and disc rims of 21c internal widths. They are 30.5-8mm wide on the 19c and 31.2 on the 21c disc rims. Not a difference I can feel.

The GP5000 I have in 28s are Tubeless and smaller comparatively to the 4000s, by a full size I'd say. On narrow road rims they sit @ 27.5 wide.

[sokyroadie]

Do yourself a favor and send them to Old Spud or another forum wheel builder:
Ergott
Echelon John

[jtakeda]

Originally Posted by Zackus

Thank you and everyone else for the advice, I'll probably take the wheels in and have them rebuilt with the same or similar rims. Just trying get to bike all dialed in and fully tuned up for riding. I'm going to experiment with 28s, just ordered some Vittoria Corsa Controls to throw on, We'll see how they fit the bike on these rims. I may go wider to a wider rim, but I'm not sure wider rim +28s will fit the frame.





I ride 90-95 psi normally, when I throw the 28s on, i'm sure I'll go a little lower. Thanks for the list of replacements, as mentioned above, I'll experiment with 25s vs. 28s.

My exact wheelset. 190 ceramic to A23 with 28c Vittoria Corsa.

Its a really great wheelset. I had latex tubes but removed them because they were for skinny tires and I'd rather not risk it on country roads.