Any benefit to Aero handlebars on a regular road bike

[MesiJezi]

Originally Posted by muz

No, not EXPONENTIALLY, just SQUARE, as in your formula

[54ny77]

the more aero you are the faster you go. it's a proven fact.

[Kontact]

I'm willing to bet that the texture of your bar tape can change your drag as much as the bar top shape.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by Kontact

I'm willing to bet that the texture of your bar tape can change your drag as much as the bar top shape.

That seems unlikely, based on the this test of the affect of bar tape on aerobars:

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gea...ro-bars-51143/

[BRad704]

Originally Posted by 54ny77

the more aero you are the faster you go. it's a proven fact.

Wait so that's NOT how I'm supposed to do it?


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[mhespenheide]

Originally Posted by muz

No, not EXPONENTIALLY, just SQUARE, as in your formula.

Dancing banana for math pedantry!
(Sorry; math teacher self-sarcasm here.)

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

That seems unlikely, based on the this test of the affect of bar tape on aerobars:

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gea...ro-bars-51143/

That test used only one kind of tape and only changed it on one part of the bar.

My point was the a very textured tape on the full bar may increase/decrease drag a fair amount compared just the drag of the top section. They measured 1.4 watts by adding cork to the top section. A different tape might not have added nearly as much, and using such a tape on the full bar may of decreased drag even more. So I don't think it's crazy to say that the most aerodynamic tape over the whole bar could save close to 4 watts compared to a least aero tape.

Aerodynamics is often a surprising mixture of gross shape and fine details. Texture, spoke shape, where external cables are, sock texture all have an impact.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by BRad704

Thanks yall for the feedback. Sounds like the semi-aero 3T bars I have now should be fine. I would probably do better to spend that extra $$ on some lighter groupset components or even just trimming the last 20mm off my steerer tube. I'm just looking for little ways to make this current bike better here and there.

Or spend the $ on you since real 'significant' performance gains come from

-Fit-does the bike fit you?
-Fitness-are you 'fit'
-Fat-lack thereof on you
-Finesse-riding, racing, training smart

IMHO, of course.

[BRad704]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Or spend the $ on you since real 'significant' performance gains come from



-Fit-does the bike fit you?

-Fitness-are you 'fit'

-Fat-lack thereof on you

-Finesse-riding, racing, training smart



IMHO, of course.

Of those, I'd self assess and say
Bike fit. Did it myself but it feels right. I've never paid for a proper fitting but our would prob be a good idea.
Fitness. Def want more fitness. I have a plan to start winter strength work this week already. I want my CrossFit endurance back.
Fat. Batting .1000 there. I'm at my race weight and feel awesome. Wife and I are 4 months into a vegan diet and I've not seen any fitness regression in that time.
Finesse. Could always be better. Grew up on MTBs, so I feel comfortable with my skills. But CX has been teaching me to ride "lighter" and be more aware of the terrain. As for road riding and racing, tight groups don't bother me, probably because I haven't crashed yet.

All IMHO. Of course.


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[echappist]

Originally Posted by BRad704

I currently have 3T Ergonova pro handlebars and stem on my road bike. A 2009 Fuji team carbon. They are more aero than a regular round bar I guess, but would I see any noticeable benefit from something like an integrated carbon aero bar and stem combo?

I know the biggest cause of drag on the bike is myself, so I’m thinking only about bike weight and bike aerodynamics here.

For a little perspective, I am a top 10 cat 4 rider. So I am moving a little faster than your average commuter, but I have a long way to go.


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An aero road bar with a flat section between the stem clamp and the bends will save you about 5W at 25mph over a regular handlebar. Key here is that you have to keep that section as clutter free as possible, preferably without any bar tape.

In comparison, an aero front wheel saves you about 4W at 25mph over a semi-aero front wheel (say Flo 30, Zipp 30, or Kinlin XR-31). The rear saves you maybe 2 at that speed, if not less. Overall, wheelset saves you a bit more than a handlebar, but at nearly 4-5x the cost.

Going from two piece to a one-piece stem-bar combo will save you more, as would routing everything internally (Madone 9-series).

The bars are definitely better bang for the buck than the wheels are

eta: two threads on this previously: https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...ht=wheels+bars and https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...ht=wheels+bars

[Tandem Rider]

I'm going to be the one to say it's all about the motor at a cat 4 level. I'm not trying to be a bad guy, but in a cat 4 crit or RR, the bike is almost the last thing to worry about. Do you have a coach? If not, a good, local to you coach will make you faster on 2 wheels than any purchase except maybe a Harley.

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by mhespenheide

Dancing banana for math pedantry!
(Sorry; math teacher self-sarcasm here.)

I always thought 2x speed required power cubed.

...but I'm no math guy by any stretch of the imagination

M

[echappist]

Originally Posted by MesiJezi

When I read the title I thought we were talking about TT style aerobars and my initial though was NOPE, those do not belong on a road bike.

Fd=(1/2)(p)(u)^2(Cd)(a)

Where

Fd = Drag force acting on a body
p = density of the fluid (air in this case)
u = velocity of fluid relative to body
Cd = coefficient of drag
a = frontal area of body (what we're trying to decrease)

All that to say the drag force increases exponentially with velocity, so aero components make a much bigger difference when speed is increased 4 MPH from 20 MPH to 24 MPH versus an increase of 4 MPH from 16 MPH to 20 MPH.

There's the nerd answer.

Originally Posted by Gummee

I always thought 2x speed required power cubed.

...but I'm no math guy by any stretch of the imagination

M

And now for some physics pedantry. You are completely right, power varies with respect to velocity cubed, but his equation is for drag force , which varies with the square of velocity.

[kgreene10]

Nearly every race I do is close at the line and at 48, I’m happy to get ack to my prior season’s ftp each year. A 5w gain from bars would be kinda notable, to be honest and getting a handful more out of a good front wheel would add up to something helpful.

But, I have a Madone 9 that is driving me insane. I just can’t get it to fit right, even after buying a second bar-stem and having several pro fits. Measurements look right but I get a terrible shoulder and neck ache really fast. In fact, I’m futzing with it again in the garage this afternoon. An adjustable bar might help and I would be happy to give up a few watts to be released from this unending fitting saga.

[echappist]

Talk about grass being greener on the other side

I'd love to have a bike with full integration. The Madone looks so slick: literally not a centimeter of cable sees the wind in front of the bottom bracket.

But what you mentioned is a very legit concern, and all that sleekness does no good when it doesn't fit right. Hopefully more manufacturers follow suit and make something similar.