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#46
11-08-2021, 07:21 PM
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__________________
chasing waddy 
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#47
11-08-2021, 08:03 PM
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For the past few years I’ve tried a new approach………I just got tired of cleaning chains, cleaning cassette, cleaning the crank……..
In the early spring, remove and clean Ultegra cassette and DA crank. Reinstall. Install a brand new Ultegra chain. Spray a soft rag with WD40, wipe down chain. Go ride. Once a week spray a soft rag with WD40. Wipe down chain, crank and derailleur pulleys. Easily ride 6000 miles a year on this bike. I will add that I try my best not to ride this one bike in foul weather. I have a foul weather ride that has tons of chain lube and a dirty drive train to prove it. Repeat next year. No chain lube (except whatever comes on an Ultegra chain from Shimano).No dirty chain. No dirty cassette. No noises. I must be doing it entirely wrong.
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#48
11-08-2021, 08:15 PM
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Why factory chain grease is no good
I have some doubts about the accuracy of the ZFC chain wear tests. First is the use if the KMC chain checker to measure wear. This chain checker includes roller wear in the measurement, as the checker pushes rollers apart rather than in the same direction. Pin to pin measurement over a prescribed length is the proper way to measure chain wear. Why not hang a chain from nail on the wall (after thorough cleaning) and measure the total length from the first pin to the last?
Another problem I have is that the chains are relubed by applying lube on a dirty chain. Jobst Brandt said that you should never lubricate a dirty chain, as you are transporting abrasive contaminants into the chain by doing so, and just making grinding paste inside the chain which wears the chain. Running a chain through a rag is only a cosmetic wipe, as it only removes dirt from the outside of the chain, not inside where it matters. Hot wax has an advantage here as wax doesn't attract much dirt to begin with and immersing a chain in the wax and swishing it around cleans the chain internally. So, if the chain was cleaned prior to relubing, I think many of the lubes, especially the wet ones, would have done much better. The test methodology is heavily biased towards hot wax, in my opinion. It's dirt and grit inside the chain that causes the wear. Otherwise chains would last a whole lot longer. Last edited by MikeD; 11-08-2021 at 08:23 PM.
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#49
11-09-2021, 01:04 AM
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I remember in the past having new chains packaged in a much more “greasy” feeling factory lube. However, the 11-speed Shimano chains (at least the Dura Ace level ones) come in factory lube that is much lighter and less viscous than I recall from back in the 10-speed era (or on various third-party chains).
After trying various lubes, and stripping vs not stripping the new chain, Ive been using Silca Synergetic since about the beginning of the year, factory lube. Seems to last much better than other chain lubes I’ve used, and keeps the drivetrain relatively clean and smooth. I have to admit I’ve not bothered with the waxing, as I just don’t have the time and inclination to spend the time faffing about with it.
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#50
11-09-2021, 07:18 AM
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I'm a wax guy, not due to speed issues but because the chain doesn't mar things that it touches, and it performs as well as any wet lube I've ever used. And honestly, if you clean a chain the way Jobst swore by its easier over the life of the chain to wax, now that we have quicklinks. I agree though that its now a wear issue. The only cassette I've had to replace in 30 years of riding was last month, a SR 11 where all of the ti large cogs began to skip with a new chain. And I bought it used, so it was probably half done before it came to me. But newer/lighter/narrower/etc. parts are more susceptible to friction wear, and they're more expensive, if you can get them at all. I really had to admire the thought that went into the testing as discussed on the Nerd Alert pod. I do wonder why plain old paraffin wasn't tested, but I suspect that only products in the cycling commercial space were. Last edited by glepore; 11-09-2021 at 08:22 AM.
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#51
11-09-2021, 07:21 AM
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#52
11-09-2021, 08:12 AM
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On the zero friction charts I see alot of "stopped test after chain suck". My experience has always been that chain suck was caused by the worn and rough inside edges of the chain wheel catching the chain and bouncing it between the chain wheel and chainstay. Are they shifting big to small rings during the test? Why not have a fixture that allows for all chains to finish the test instead of just stopping? Just not a well thought out procedure, data collection, or fixturing. Sample size of 1 is just not sufficient to make a recomendation.
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#53
11-09-2021, 08:45 AM
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I used to start the season with 6 new chains with old school lube processes, but only need 3 chains at the most now and cassettes do not wear out. N = 2
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#54
11-09-2021, 10:44 AM
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Why factory chain grease is no good
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I estimate I get about 700 miles before I have to clean and lube a Smoove lubed chain. Yes, it's a pain to thoroughly clean and lube and apply Smoove with a heat gun (to get thorough penetration), but if it lasts this long and the chain is quiet and stays relatively clean, it's not so bad. Beats having to re hot wax every 200 miles and having a noisier chain. I like a quiet chain. I tried hot wax many years ago and didn't think it was worth it. Who knows though, I may try it again. Maybe Molten Speed Wax or Silca wax is better and longer lasting than the canning wax mixed with oil and/or graphite home brew, or the Performance Bike stuff in a tin can I was using back in the day. If I don't have to clean the chain before relubing, that may be a time saver. I've got a number of bikes, and saving on maintenance time is something I'm interested in. Since I have a number of bikes, multiple chains per bike to save waxing time is really not practical. Last edited by MikeD; 11-09-2021 at 10:57 AM.
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#55
11-09-2021, 10:54 AM
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Chain suck can be caused by no/insufficient lube on a chain.
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#56
11-10-2021, 06:27 AM
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#57
11-10-2021, 06:45 AM
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i came up when sheldon brown was still updating the site and learning literally everything i know about bikes from his website where he says the factory grease is the best. interesting thread to read through
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#58
11-10-2021, 06:51 AM
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What is the alcohol for? I.e., what does it bring to the process that the OMS hasn't already accomplished? Thanks.
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#59
11-10-2021, 07:36 AM
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#60
11-10-2021, 07:40 AM
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OMS is petroleum based, which is great for cleaning / degreasing a chain but not conducive to applying wax. The alcohol removes any oil from the chain so the wax can stick to the chain better.
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)..take cogset off, chainrings off, chain off, pulleys off..clean, clean...lube chain, go ride. Boeshield, WD-40 LUBE, some NFS left over, Prolink..whatever is closest at hand..even tried some CLP..works fine...
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