#16
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#17
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Ha! Thanks for the info. Include me in the group who won't pay that much for a chain.
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#18
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I have to post this chart to all chain lube topics as Adam's lube reports are 'Just too damn many pages for any man to understand' (for all you Hamilton fans out there!)
Anyway, I was a big 'just use Mobil1' guy for years until we really started looking at testing and data for friction.. then when Adam's testing came about, we realized just how critical lube was not just for friction, or even chain life, but for ability to clear our debris and to stay fast and clean over time.. for those of us not racing, this is probably the biggest benefit of modern lube developments, staying fast and clean and low wearing, even in the face of nasty conditions. |
#19
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Any reason why pure paraffin (i.e. Gulf Wax) isn't included in the Hot Melt wax lubricants?
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#20
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Someone mentioned chainsaw bar oil, I use it on freehubs. Just clingy enough but still lets the sweet sound come through.
I should buy some NFS since my Zwiftbot has it in the name, but for now I'm using synth motor oil/odorless mineral spirits 4:1 about once a week. |
#21
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__________________
Jeremy Clarksons bike-riding cousin |
#22
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#23
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https://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Cam..._on_chain_lube
How our special lubricant is applied The gradual process that we use ensures that the special lubricating formula penetrates deeply and evenly into every part of each chain link. In a carefully controlled environment, designed to ensure that no unwanted dust or moisture causes contamination during the process, 30 pieces of chain, each measuring 45 m in length, are simultaneously passed through baths of grease-based lubricant, which is heated to high temperatures. This lubricant is created according to a special formula exclusive to Campagnolo. The chain is then moved through a system of rollers to ensure that every single part is fully lubricated, even the smallest. The C13 chain is then cooled and coated with a special primer. |
#24
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Last edited by Mikej; 11-08-2021 at 09:00 AM. |
#25
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especially when it's their passion. I just replaced the chain on one bike and broke out a new chain on a Emonda ALR build. I'll ride both new chains for a bit, then in the process of cleaning them, I'll shoot some lube on there. M |
#26
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Sorry, posted the older version of the chart, this one has factory grease + NFS applied every 300km.. in time the NFS displaces the factory grease, but early on, it serves more to help wash out dirt and grit.
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#27
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Is Synergetic the new NFS?
__________________
It's not an adventure until something goes wrong. - Yvon C. |
#28
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On-bike cleaning tools may eliminate the need to take the chain off, but that step of cleaning out the muck from inside the rollers is key to prevent the abrasion that manifests itself in "stretch" measured along the length of the chain – i.e., accumulation of wear on the pins / rollers. My understanding is that lubricating the chain when it's on the bike tends to move contamination into the rollers, making it wear out faster. Thus, in the row "Factory grease + NFS" likely corresponds to a condition that results in premature wear. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html |
#29
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I suppose. I haven't bought a Shimano chain, but at least Campy chains come in a sealed poly bag which by itself I would think is protectant from salty air or what not. So why not just a light regular chain lube instead of 'factory grease'?
Last edited by RoosterCogset; 11-08-2021 at 11:15 AM. |
#30
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I never remove the factory stuff, but do wipe the chain thoroughly before installing.
ride until it gets a little noisy (usually ~300 miles), then treat with my fave lube Chain-L. a quick wipe after each ride and I'm good to go for 750 miles before a re-lube is needed. some people really enjoy fiddly chain maint procedures, but they aren't worth the time for me. a high-quality KMC unit is $35 and lasts about a year (7500 miles). |
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