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  #16  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:03 AM
Mark McM Mark McM is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onno View Post
So the grease on new chains helps the chain look nice when it arrives to the consumer, but what is then required of the consumer is to completely clean the brand-new chain and relube. This is a giant PIA. I for one will start buying chains from the first company to sell chains properly lubed from the get go.

Seriously, wouldn't a properly lubed chain also prevent any rust or debris, especially if it is well-packaged?
There are several companies, such as Ceramic Speed and Silca, that sell chains that come pre-treated and pre-lubed and ready to ride - but they are quite expensive ($155-$185), and most people won't pay that much for a chain.
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  #17  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:15 AM
Onno Onno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark McM View Post
There are several companies, such as Ceramic Speed and Silca, that sell chains that come pre-treated and pre-lubed and ready to ride - but they are quite expensive ($155-$185), and most people won't pay that much for a chain.
Ha! Thanks for the info. Include me in the group who won't pay that much for a chain.
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  #18  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:23 AM
joshatsilca joshatsilca is offline
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I have to post this chart to all chain lube topics as Adam's lube reports are 'Just too damn many pages for any man to understand' (for all you Hamilton fans out there!)

Anyway, I was a big 'just use Mobil1' guy for years until we really started looking at testing and data for friction.. then when Adam's testing came about, we realized just how critical lube was not just for friction, or even chain life, but for ability to clear our debris and to stay fast and clean over time.. for those of us not racing, this is probably the biggest benefit of modern lube developments, staying fast and clean and low wearing, even in the face of nasty conditions.

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  #19  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:30 AM
Wunder Wunder is offline
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Any reason why pure paraffin (i.e. Gulf Wax) isn't included in the Hot Melt wax lubricants?
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  #20  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:41 AM
bigbill bigbill is offline
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Someone mentioned chainsaw bar oil, I use it on freehubs. Just clingy enough but still lets the sweet sound come through.

I should buy some NFS since my Zwiftbot has it in the name, but for now I'm using synth motor oil/odorless mineral spirits 4:1 about once a week.
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  #21  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:41 AM
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martl martl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
When in CA, riding with a couple of guys..one guys chain 'chirping', driving us all batty..stopped at a gas station..rummaged around in trash..found a empty engine oil bottle..dribbled what was left, on chain..continued..now with really quiet chain...ours were 'noisy' in comparison.
The biggest difference can be experienced by riding a chain with lube on it as opposed to without The rest are nuances...
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  #22  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:48 AM
Mikej Mikej is offline
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Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
The goop that comes on 'factory' chains is more of a preservative and rust inhibitor than lubricant. These all arrive via ship, some spending a LONG time in a salty environment..AND if not removed, does collect all sorts of dirt and grime. 'Kinda' like cosmoline.

So..Sure, I WD-40 a new chain, let dry and light lube.

Oh so many threads about bicycle chain lube. Ya know, not the chains closing the cargo doors of the space shuttle...bicycle chain.

(And yes, I know the space shuttle cargo bay doors aren't driven by a chain but..bicycle. )

For most of us punters, clean chain and just about any lubricant, wether it be 'bicycle' or not, will work getting' ya down the road.
Yeah, those ships and containers and boxes and plastic wrap don’t keep anything clean- I heard they drag the chains in a wire basket off the back of the boat. I’m guessing Shimano doesn’t contribute to the zero friction cause.$$
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  #23  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:49 AM
zap zap is offline
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https://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Cam..._on_chain_lube

How our special lubricant is applied

The gradual process that we use ensures that the special lubricating formula penetrates deeply and evenly into every part of each chain link.

In a carefully controlled environment, designed to ensure that no unwanted dust or moisture causes contamination during the process, 30 pieces of chain, each measuring 45 m in length, are simultaneously passed through baths of grease-based lubricant, which is heated to high temperatures.

This lubricant is created according to a special formula exclusive to Campagnolo.

The chain is then moved through a system of rollers to ensure that every single part is fully lubricated, even the smallest.

The C13 chain is then cooled and coated with a special primer.
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  #24  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:53 AM
Mikej Mikej is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshatsilca View Post
I have to post this chart to all chain lube topics as Adam's lube reports are 'Just too damn many pages for any man to understand' (for all you Hamilton fans out there!)

Anyway, I was a big 'just use Mobil1' guy for years until we really started looking at testing and data for friction.. then when Adam's testing came about, we realized just how critical lube was not just for friction, or even chain life, but for ability to clear our debris and to stay fast and clean over time.. for those of us not racing, this is probably the biggest benefit of modern lube developments, staying fast and clean and low wearing, even in the face of nasty conditions.

So by this chart I am getting that one application of synergistic lube will provide for 25000 kms of drivetrain protection? When does the extrapolation begin? For the record I am a synergistic user, it’s quiet, not real dirty, but no way does it last longer than 250 - 300 miles. I even use it on our mountain bikes in non- rainy conditions- it last 35 -45 miles as that’s as long as our rides / races are.

Last edited by Mikej; 11-08-2021 at 09:00 AM.
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  #25  
Old 11-08-2021, 08:57 AM
Gummee Gummee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
For most of us punters, clean chain and just about any lubricant, wether it be 'bicycle' or not, will work getting' ya down the road.
People love to overthink things

especially when it's their passion.

I just replaced the chain on one bike and broke out a new chain on a Emonda ALR build. I'll ride both new chains for a bit, then in the process of cleaning them, I'll shoot some lube on there.

M
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  #26  
Old 11-08-2021, 09:04 AM
joshatsilca joshatsilca is offline
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Sorry, posted the older version of the chart, this one has factory grease + NFS applied every 300km.. in time the NFS displaces the factory grease, but early on, it serves more to help wash out dirt and grit.

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  #27  
Old 11-08-2021, 09:20 AM
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reuben reuben is offline
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Is Synergetic the new NFS?
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  #28  
Old 11-08-2021, 09:40 AM
Pastashop Pastashop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshatsilca View Post
Sorry, posted the older version of the chart, this one has factory grease + NFS applied every 300km.. in time the NFS displaces the factory grease, but early on, it serves more to help wash out dirt and grit.
There's a difference between what you do to keep a chain quiet vs. last a long time. To keep a chain quiet, feel free to drip in lube whenever. To make the drivetrain last longer, you generally have to take the chain off to thoroughly clean (with agitation), and re-lube. Then the chain runs quietly, until the lubrication leaves those inner interfaces.

On-bike cleaning tools may eliminate the need to take the chain off, but that step of cleaning out the muck from inside the rollers is key to prevent the abrasion that manifests itself in "stretch" measured along the length of the chain – i.e., accumulation of wear on the pins / rollers.

My understanding is that lubricating the chain when it's on the bike tends to move contamination into the rollers, making it wear out faster. Thus, in the row "Factory grease + NFS" likely corresponds to a condition that results in premature wear.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

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  #29  
Old 11-08-2021, 09:47 AM
RoosterCogset RoosterCogset is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustychisel View Post
Re your thread title. Factory grease is EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD for its purpose. (as explained by Old Potato)
I suppose. I haven't bought a Shimano chain, but at least Campy chains come in a sealed poly bag which by itself I would think is protectant from salty air or what not. So why not just a light regular chain lube instead of 'factory grease'?

Last edited by RoosterCogset; 11-08-2021 at 11:15 AM.
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  #30  
Old 11-08-2021, 10:11 AM
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Seramount Seramount is offline
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I never remove the factory stuff, but do wipe the chain thoroughly before installing.

ride until it gets a little noisy (usually ~300 miles), then treat with my fave lube Chain-L.

a quick wipe after each ride and I'm good to go for 750 miles before a re-lube is needed.

some people really enjoy fiddly chain maint procedures, but they aren't worth the time for me. a high-quality KMC unit is $35 and lasts about a year (7500 miles).
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