Headlight Recommendations for Winter Training

[Likes2ridefar]

I’d ignore the weight and consider safety first. An external battery while ugly lasts longer, generally, and almost always has much higher output.

For cheap I like magic shine. Lupine are excellent but expensive.

[slowpoke]

Originally Posted by Likes2ridefar

I’d want nothing less than 1000 and frankly would go crazy if it’s not going to blind others. There is nothing wrong with a very well lit road while in the pain cave. Last thing to worry about is hitting debris or a pothole that is hard to see with lesser lights.

And this is why Germany has nice things like StVZO-regulated lights. So you can have bright lights without blinding oncoming traffic.

[Andy sti]

Originally Posted by Likes2ridefar

Surprised to see the less than 1000 even 500?? Recommended lights.

I would outride that lumen easily cranking out intervals in the dark. I’d want nothing less than 1000 and frankly would go crazy if it’s not going to blind others. There is nothing wrong with a very well lit road while in the pain cave. Last thing to worry about is hitting debris or a pothole that is hard to see with lesser lights.

Finally some logic in these light threads. The light recommendations here always make me laugh. Also wish people would stop recommending a dyno light. It's a completely ridiculous recommendation for someone who wants a battery powered light for 2-3 times a week training rides.

I just got a light that is 2100+ lumen for 2.5ish hours. That gives me 5ish hours around 1400 lumen - now that is a usable light. I can't imagine doing any riding with a 500 lumen light.

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by Andy sti

Finally some logic in these light threads. The light recommendations here always make me laugh. Also wish people would stop recommending a dyno light. It's a completely ridiculous recommendation for someone who wants a battery powered light for 2-3 times a week training rides.

I just got a light that is 2100+ lumen for 2.5ish hours. That gives me 5ish hours around 1400 lumen - now that is a usable light. I can't imagine doing any riding with a 500 lumen light.

500 lumen lights are for commuting in lit urban areas IMO

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by Andy sti

Finally some logic in these light threads. The light recommendations here always make me laugh. Also wish people would stop recommending a dyno light. It's a completely ridiculous recommendation for someone who wants a battery powered light for 2-3 times a week training rides.

I just got a light that is 2100+ lumen for 2.5ish hours. That gives me 5ish hours around 1400 lumen - now that is a usable light. I can't imagine doing any riding with a 500 lumen light.

Does it require a secret handshake? Wut doin?

[Ozz]

Originally Posted by Andy sti

...
I just got a light that is 2100+ lumen for 2.5ish hours. That gives me 5ish hours around 1400 lumen - now that is a usable light. I can't imagine doing any riding with a 500 lumen light.

External battery or self-contained?

I am not a fan of external batteries. I had them on first few lights I purchase (L&M HID, Seca and Stella). Didn't need lights on all my rides, and wrapping excess power cords was a PITA. Self contained works best for me.

My rides are urban (always leave from my front door) so I have streetlights helping me out most of the route. I run a Taz 1500 for "seeing", and a Lezyne Zecto for "being seen" up front, and a Planet Bike SuperFlash and Vis 180 Pro in back....

[sg8357]

L&M make go-pro mount that replaces the rubber strap on the Urban series.

https://lightandmotion.com/products/...ount-urban-vya

I split the diff, an L&M 1000fc and a B&M IQ-X using a SON dyno.

The L&M puts out more light, the IQ-X puts the light out farther.
I'm using the same dyno as I used back in dual halogen days,
now on the 4th gen of led Dyno lights.

[pelicanrando]

I have a dyno on my rando bike with an IQ-X, but decided to go with battery lights for my road bike. I landed on a Fenix BC21R for my purposes (mostly short rides, but up to 600k rando). It has swappable batteries so you can bring multiple batteries on long events. This is the biggest advantage of the Fenix vs. the L&M rando 500.

It has 4 brightness levels, and you can charge it while riding and running it on the lowest level (which is plenty bright for climbing, barely bright enough for flats and waaay too dim for descents). It has decent optics that put most of the light down onto the road. The beam pattern sucks compared to an IQ-X, but all battery lights are a compromise when compared to dyno. I run it on the 2nd lowest setting most of the time, and turn it up higher on descents or fast sections.

I've been pretty happy with it overall, and did a 600k in May with it so lots of night riding. Also, it's quite light when compared to dyno systems.

[merlincustom1]

www.outboundlighting.com. Best light I’ve had in 30+ years of riding. American company. The founder was a former auto headlight designer. The Road Edition is designed with a cutoff to not blind oncoming drivers, so all of the lumens go in the right place and not off into space. No hot spot. The beam is wide and the color is pleasing to the eye. 5 settings, long run times, 3 year warranty. Much better than the Niterider, Airsteam Supernova, Exposure Strada, and others that I’ve had. Highly recommend.

[NHAero]

This is the one I use as well. No question I'm not riding repeats as Clean intends, nor do I live where I'm going to be descending long and fast. I like how easy it is to move bike to bike, it's lightweight, and I have a flashlight and a headlamp from Fenix, all using the same 18650 battery so I have spares.

Great customer service too.

Originally Posted by pelicanrando

I have a dyno on my rando bike with an IQ-X, but decided to go with battery lights for my road bike. I landed on a Fenix BC21R for my purposes (mostly short rides, but up to 600k rando). It has swappable batteries so you can bring multiple batteries on long events. This is the biggest advantage of the Fenix vs. the L&M rando 500.

It has 4 brightness levels, and you can charge it while riding and running it on the lowest level (which is plenty bright for climbing, barely bright enough for flats and waaay too dim for descents). It has decent optics that put most of the light down onto the road. The beam pattern sucks compared to an IQ-X, but all battery lights are a compromise when compared to dyno. I run it on the 2nd lowest setting most of the time, and turn it up higher on descents or fast sections.

I've been pretty happy with it overall, and did a 600k in May with it so lots of night riding. Also, it's quite light when compared to dyno systems.

[Andy sti]

Originally Posted by Ozz

External battery or self-contained?

I am not a fan of external batteries. I had them on first few lights I purchase (L&M HID, Seca and Stella). Didn't need lights on all my rides, and wrapping excess power cords was a PITA. Self contained works best for me.

My rides are urban (always leave from my front door) so I have streetlights helping me out most of the route. I run a Taz 1500 for "seeing", and a Lezyne Zecto for "being seen" up front, and a Planet Bike SuperFlash and Vis 180 Pro in back....

External battery but it fits easily in a small bar bag - so now it's cool.

My town is dark and has made efforts to reduce light pollution. I also ride in rural areas without street lights. I want a light to see with. I also have daylight lights but if i'm out for 90+ minutes I want to have see.

[Andy sti]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

Does it require a secret handshake? Wut doin?

I grabbed the Dinotte light. So far it's been great.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by Andy sti

I grabbed the Dinotte light. So far it's been great.

Pricing on the Dinotte isn't bad really, not for the manufacturing quality you get.

I commuted for a few years with an Urban 500 in Med/Low - it wasn't always fun, but I lived. Actually riding to enjoy things is a different story. And it's gotta be a lot safer to actually be able to see potholes before you're in them.

[smontanaro]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

AAny other good options that might be mountable to a K-Edge Go-Pro mount?

Corollary question: Are light mounts beginning to standardize with the dominance of Garmin products for bikes? I haven't purchased anything in several years, but I always found it particularly annoying that every company has their own mount "standard," really just lock-in. I don't think I have ever found two companies' handlebar light mounts to be compatible.

[Ozz]

Originally Posted by smontanaro

Corollary question: Are light mounts beginning to standardize with the dominance of Garmin products for bikes? I haven't purchased anything in several years, but I always found it particularly annoying that every company has their own mount "standard," really just lock-in. I don't think I have ever found two companies' handlebar light mounts to be compatible.

One of the things I really like about L&M lights is that they are mounted with rubber straps....easy on and off, and you aren't left with a mount on your bike when you don't need a light.